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How to: Install OEM Steering Wheel Volume Controls

77K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  boystar22 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, thanks for your patience for those of you that have been waiting for me to post these instructions. I believe they are quite thorough, let me know if you have any questions and I'd be happy to help.

So if you have been inconvenienced many times in your 4th gen Altima sedan or coupe because of the lack of steering wheel mounted volume controls, this is where you want to be, Boystar22 and I have created several guides, with pictures to help you install your OEM volume controls, remove your radio, wire your car and have a little added convenience.

Here are the parts you'll need to order:
Steering Wheel Mounted Volume Controls (the link below says coupe, but the part is compatible with both the coupe and sedan)
SWITCH-ASCD,STEERING - ALTIMA (L32) :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Metra Harness 71-7552
Metra 71-7552 (met-717552) Wiring Harnesses Car Stereo Installation & Accessories Car Audio/Video Installation & Accessories Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

You'll also want some extra wires that you can run since the wires on the Metra Harness are not long enough, zip ties (for a more professional install), and some heat shrink or electrical tape.

This is going to run you about:
$133.07 - Controls
$14.94 - Harness

If Nissan Courtesy Parts calls you for your VIN number, just tell them it doesn't matter that what you ordered is the part that you want, they called me a day after ordering it asking for my VIN.

The first thing you'll want to do is install the volume controls, Boystar22 has made these directions for you:
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/ne...me-controls-steering-wheel-2.html#post3784628

After reconnecting your battery. Turn the car on, and turn your steering wheel to either the left or right, this reveals one screw on the right or left to remove (remove both).


Now unscrew the screw at the bottom of the column which is next to the handle where you adjust your telescopic steering wheel.


Once you've removed all three screws use the telescopic handle to pull out and lower the steering wheel all the way. Simply pry the two plastic peices covering your column apart, this is simple if you hold the top of the cover where it looks like there is a handle at the top of the cover near the gauges.

Take out your gray M30 connector on the right of the column (it's in there very good, you'll want to apply a lot of pressure to the tab while pulling, the wires are locked in very tight so if you're pulling on the wires a tad, don't worry, but also don't yank!) Once you've taken out the connector you'll see the locking mechanism to unlock and lock the snap-lock on the side (just use a small flat head screw driver to unlock it (you'll know what these look like after playing with your ordered Metra harness at home), use your your wires from your extra harness you ordered and simply plug those in the correct location. You will need one on the top-right, bottom-right, and also the 2nd one on the top.


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For some side-note directions, this is how the snap-lock works and acts like:

This is the Metra Harness' snap-lock engaged. Using a flat head screw driver will prop it open (you need to prop it open on both sides, and this applys to virtually all the connectors in the car.)


This is the Metra Harness' snap-lock opened after using the flat head screw driver.


Now lets look at the behind the scenes, and see how this actually works. When the harness' snap-lock is opened, it creates a clear path for the wires to be inserted and removed, just make sure you're inserting the wires correctly, as the wires are not perfect squares, but rather have a small notch on the top so you insert them correctly, which I didn't picture above. However, this is easily spotted and easy to figure out once you've played with your harness (and also seen in the pictures above and below when I'm showing the wiring diagrams).


This is the harness closed and locked into place.

Now, back to the guide...
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Now remove your radio, Boystar22 also made these extremely helpful instructions:
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/ne...me-controls-steering-wheel-2.html#post3784627

On the Metra Harness, unlock the snap-lock on both sides of the harness and add your wires. The picture below shows you exactly where the wires go.


Now just run your wires from steering wheel to the radio. I didn't follow the black wire molding the entire way, but I did for part of the way, you'll notice there is a hole to run your wires to the radio. I would recommend soldering and heatshrinking the wires for a professional job, but stripping the wires and twisting them does a good enough job, then just cover them with electrical tape. I also was very generous with zip-ties to make it look nice.


In this picture you can see where I ran the three wires through the holes.


Now just reverse directions and put your radio back in and put the cover over your column and you're done!

This was posted by krnflyboy and was very helpful to me when I was wiring:
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p247/krnflyboy/audocontrolharness.jpg

Since you can SEE my wires, I'll tell you what colors went to what.
M30 #31 (ORANGE) >--YELLOW--> M43 #6 (YELLOW-BACK)
M30 #24 (PURPLE-BLACK) >--BLUE----> M43 #16 (PURPLE)
M30 #33 (BROWN-RED) >--GREEN---> M43 #15 (WHITE-BLUE)

The color in the middle in my above diagram just represents what color wire I used that attached the wires together (as they were not long enough alone).

Many thanks to ruben00 who posted chadillacs written instructions for wiring, boystar22 who helped me with almost everything from the installation of the part, to what part I needed and the assistance throughout the entire process.

For a direct link to my original thread I started in June 2009, go here (but please don't bring the thread back from the dead): http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/ne...on/289896-volume-controls-steering-wheel.html

As always I, nor do any of the people who posted guides or advice take any responsibility for your car, assets, or anything else in the event that something goes wrong with anything you do after reading our threads.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. If you're in the MA area and would like some help with the installation, just let me know.

-Derek
 
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#3 ·
I'm glad you got everything working the way you wanted, and I'm glad I could be of as much help as I was. Most importantly you aren't keeping the successes to yourself and you're spreading the wealth to all. It really is a simple install and I encourage anyone who wants this, to do it. It's the only thing I really wanted out of the convenience package, and I couldn't justify the package price and this really isn't an expensive thing to add.
 
#4 ·
Ya I hope some people end up doing it, I know a few people from the original thread wanted to do it. The only thing I really would like added are the auto lights, not sure how difficult that will be though... I have to put some research into it. If I can get some knowledge on how to do it, I'll buy the parts from courtesy parts again along with the auto-lights fog lights kit from them so then I'll have the changed switch for it as well.
 
#5 ·
I thought about doing that as well; but when looking up the cost of parts the photocell is $80 by itself, and the foglight switch is $130 (of which I already have and would have to replace again with the one for the auto-lights). Plus its been a common problem for people with aftermarket HID's to have issues with one or both headlights turning on when being triggered by the sensor. Since i've already got my hid's working properly, and fog lights, the task of disassembling so much that i've already done just to re-wire isn't worth it to me.

However, I would tend to think that if you pulled out the passenger side speaker grill in the dash by the windshield (where the photocell goes) you might find the harness where it plugs in is already there; if your lucky.
 
#6 ·
Haha, it probably wouldn't be prewired. I'm never lucky when it comes to that. I'm not wired for the 3.5 side mirrors, and i wasn't for the volume controls. I'd bet I wouldn't be wired for the auto lights photocell either... I still need to check my fuse box to see if I'm wire for the fog lights, but I havn't had the time. lol
 
#7 ·
I feel you on that one. I wasn't pre-wired for the fog lights, but that was super easy to do. You just buy the kit on ebay that has the wiring included, and just hack it apart and run the wires to the fusebox rather than the battery like the directions say. If it were easier to buy the plugs for the bulbs I would have built my own harness from wire I already had. And don't even get me started on the 3.5 mirrors, thats still an unfinished project. They work, and look great, except for the heated part. I need to get back under the dash and fiddle with that again...
 
#8 ·
This is a fantastic thread, but one thing that's missing from it is an oversimplification. Lots of pictures and explanation which is great, but for people that might be overwhelmed by the amount of information here:

1.) Strip some wire, unplug and unclip a connector in the steering wheel, insert the wire in the correct locations and clip the connector back down.
2.) Run the wire to the head unit
3.) Unplug and unlcip the the connector on the back of the radio, insert the wire in the correct locations and clip the connector back down.

Once you put everything back together this is as simple as running 3 wires from a clip on connector to another clip on connector. I hope this helps someone who might be overwhelmed by the extensive amount of information here.
 
#9 ·
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the guide. I tried to give a lot of steps because for me it was my first upgrade and I wanted to give the most information to a broad amount of users, this way there were more pictures, information, etc for everyone. I thought I was pretty clear about how the installation went though.
 
#11 ·
Haha I'll have to do some revisions soon I take it. Well, I'll repeat, it was my first modification-- so this was my first guide too. haha
 
#14 ·
Yes, the 215 part is both the cruise control and volume controls. The reason for this is because there is only one connector behind the airbag so the wires from the cruise control and the wires from the volume control go to the same connector.

Heres a link to boystar's picture he took of what the cruise control only part looks like:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3621/3615704666_ea062998e3_o.jpg
 
#16 ·
Correct, they are attached to the harness with the cruise on the right but the adio swithes go on the left.
 
#17 ·
hey, i just bought an altima 2.5s and honestly didn't notice the lack of volume control on the wheel until i drove it off the lot (at night) and saw no lights on the left side of the wheel....crap! but it was too late. i really miss this cause my previous car (pathy) had them. I have never done a mod to any car before and was wondering on a scale 1-10 how hard it is and what was the total cost of the parts?
 
#18 ·
Check out the first post for a cost and the instructions:
This is going to run you about:
$137.48 - Controls
$14.94 - Harness

this a very simple install, you just have to be confident with removing your radio and such, this was my first install and I had no problems.congrats with your purchase and good luck with the install, feel free to keep asking questions!
 
#21 ·
Do not use the Bluetooth set! The resistance values are different and it's made to run through the bluetooth module on it's way to the headunit, so the buttons don't do their intended functions. The source button turns the volume down. Seek up works but not down. The volume down mutes and volume up seeks down. And the Bluetooth call button turns the system off. It's highly annoying, I'm waiting for the new switch set on the 10's to come out. I want the graphite color.
 
#20 ·
Boystar22 actually used that steering wheel part for his coupe. I believe he said it worked but the buttons were messed up and in different places.
 
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