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I have a 2018 Nissan Altima sv (yes I know it has shitty cvt trans) they’re nice but they are shitty if you have pretty much every person tryna race you , I never back down idc if it’s a hellcat I am gung-ho , I still consider me winning when they slow cause a cop at the intersection and I just hand them a gift certificate to GAPPLEBEES. Anyway how can I make it at least a bit faster? And trannies that can mount to it? Cs I work at a used car part lot and tear down a lot of engines and trannies but idk there any that can if I wanted to make it stick shift . Please no ass clown dick lickers douche comments thanks in advance
 

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I have a 2018 Nissan Altima sv (yes I know it has shitty cvt trans) they’re nice but they are shitty if you have pretty much every person tryna race you , I never back down idc if it’s a hellcat I am gung-ho , I still consider me winning when they slow cause a cop at the intersection and I just hand them a gift certificate to GAPPLEBEES. Anyway how can I make it at least a bit faster? And trannies that can mount to it? Cs I work at a used car part lot and tear down a lot of engines and trannies but idk there any that can if I wanted to make it stick shift . Please no ass clown dick lickers douche comments thanks in advance

Fortunately, this forum has two features that will help you out in your Need for Speed.

One is a search feature labeled Search Community, where you can find answers to your probing questions.

The second one is a thread titled Engine Performance 2013-2018


You can learn from visiting the Engine Performance section how to make you grocery getter a whole lot faster, make tons more HP and torque and you will learn that hundreds of members have swapped out their CVT for a manual trans...or not.

I hope that my answer is serious enough for a distinguished illegal street racer like yourself.
 

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Here that type has killed several people in 3-4 incidents of late, they have begun instant car takeaways under drug laws if you get caught doing it. Car goes to city pound and they sell it or crush it before one can get it back.
 

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Before you go looking for parts the first thing to do is look at the ECU.
Newer Nissan ECUs will only allow a certain amount of power to be delivered regardless of how much potential gains the hardware actually has.

Make sure someone can ACTUALLY tune the ECU to take advantage of parts before you put them in.
(Unless you decide to run an aftermarket engine management system or something)

Next thing you want to look at is HOW you want to use the car. Are you looking at more off the line acceleration at the expense of top speed or what?

These are the questions you'll have to figure out and when you get the answers WRITE THEM DOWN so you can look at them later to keep the project on track.

The statement "make it a bit faster" is a really general statement and means different things to different people. Take a serious look at what faster means to you and then start looking at how to realistically reach it.
 

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ALL computers have that issue, they only have fuel and ignition mapping for the stock engine envelope, you MUST go to custom software beyond any fairly small power increase. Luckily many of the parts commonly used to hop up engines now are ones that really do nothing, if they did you would burn the engine up quick due to the open loop fuel map not having enough fuel to cover the need.
 

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While that is true that tuning will be needed I think we might be talking about slightly differnt things.

The ECUs for allot of manufacturers can be tuned to program in different fuel maps, injector size, timing, etc... AFIK the newer Nissan ECUs are protected and have not been cracked. The older turbo Jukes were able to get some pretty good gains because they used the older generation ECU but the Sentra Turbo (using same engine) are stuck. There are small gains to be had (really small) with some bolt ons but not really worth it because they don't really do much if anything.

I think the point here is not so much to discuss the details of tuning but to make the OP aware that there are some real issues to consider before buying parts when trying to make the car "a bit faster"

Once there's a realistic plan on the software side then we can then start looking at the hardware side (cough, cough... CVT) to actually use the extra power.
 

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You MUST discuss the tuning in at least minor detail to get the reason why you must do it across. Or most will simply say screw it like they typically do.

I built many competition engines, It is silly to even waste time thinking about any true hi-perf until the CVT is not the millstone it is. Even if they didn't break they are tuned in operation to destroy a whole lot of potential power any engine can make.

I learned rule #1 way back in the early '70s, you never use auto trans of any sort, it immediately costs you a solid 20% of any performance you build in extra. MTX is the only way to go and you buy a car that already has it if you want to do that work, then get a way to change the software or you are wasting time and money.
 

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Yea, I agree. That's why I'm not a big fan of automatics. That and the fact they just aren't as reliable or as engaging as manuals. Sure automatics can shift faster but so what. I'm not looking to have a competition car at the track with the budget that goes with that. I'm looking at effectively utilizing as much of the engine power I can and keeping it out of the shop. How many times have I had to flush the fluid or rebuild the MT. None. Might have to change the clutch the odd decade or so but I'd rather do that than get an auto rebuilt.

That and the fact that I really prefer the manual transmission experience.
It feels like I'm driving, not just riding.

It's too bad manual cars are getting so hard to find.
Everyone says they'll buy one but no one ever does...
 

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I love 'em too but the wife sez they gotta be ATX. I used to super concentrate on power and nothing but, burned that gene out and turned it inward and inside out to focus mainly on never using a shop ever, I do 100% of all work done to the cars. I used to cut bolts off and drill lightening holes in parts to make a stock appearing car that weighed 2000 lbs. less than it was supposed to.

I have built ATX that can take 500 hp. but that was back when they were over engineered to be able to do so without too much modding. Now ATX is typically made only to cover the exact power an engine makes because any more kills mileage, it can be very hard making ATX live now. A friend and I at one time had a '70 Vette that ran in the mid nines 1/4 mi. at over 140 mph using a 2 speed Powerglide and a 454 using one of the first sets of high compression outboard pin boss pistons Manley made.
 

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Well definitely sounds like you've been there and you know your stuff.
One thing I sometimes have to keep in mind is the average car nowadays is WAY faster now then they ever were from factory. Only problem is it's hard to do any mods to go up from there. Basically we're stuck with whatever they came with which kinda takes allot of the fun out of it for me. I never seem to be satisfied with stock anything.
 

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I have learned to revel in low hp. doggy cars. They don't break as much.

We cut our teeth on AMC cars and most people never realized what wonders they could be. The learning out of the box helped too, you couldn't buy parts like for a Ford or Chevy and we had to make do with what we had. We had to make intakes and I had to make my first electronic ignition when none were to be had back then.

I simply switched hot rod motorcycles for the fast cars, again for same reason, the bikes did not break nearly so much stuff. Engines were not a problem, they lasted as long as needed but when you start really leaving the line hard then driveline breakage rears its' ugly head. The AMX cars we raced tended to wheelie and that breaks lots of stuff.
 

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There are some that are trying to make the CVT take more torque. I'm not one for advising this. But one very smart fellow was saying Amsoil CVT fluid created a better coefficient of friction for the belt and pulleys. That can be the quick easy way to handle more torque. But then other parts are not the toughest, like the splined hub area in the forward clutch drum, the same guy had his crack from the higher load. It does no good to hop up an engine and not have the rest of the power train to handle that extra power, that is when parts break.
AMC yes the 390 and 401, Borg Warner M12 and Manual T10, pretty though stuff, amc used the best from every manufacture, and temporarily forced the end of racing for Ford, GM, not sure about Mopar???
AMC was winning all the races, huge embarrassment to the big 3.
 

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Remember NHRA World Finals in '76?, final in Pro Stock was AMC Hornet vs. Hornet, nothing GM, Mopar, or Ford put up to run could stay up with them. Booth-Arons against Maskin & Kanners and both 360 inch engines pushing 800 hp at speeds over 150 mph. The others cried so much the rules changed for AMC, NHRA couldn't have the bigger companies look bad. They had actually figured out how to offset slice 4 heads down the length of them to take the two thicker top halves and weld to the two thicker bottom halves to make a 'stock' head set (LOL) that was over a 1/4" higher at the intake ports and nothing in the rules said anything about that. AMC was just responding to the Ford 351C exhaust port plate they did to raise that engine output by 100 hp. Or, a one inch thick plate to replace the milled off last one inch of exhaust port since the downdrop angle was so terrible in the port, Ford claimed they were still using a 'stock' head.
 

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That 800 hp pretty good for that time too. You also have to like how during AMC's reign, the convertible car was banned from manufacture, then after AMC was gone convertibles were again allowed.
The AMC dog leg ex ports where very good at the time too. I have a relative that lived and loved his AMC's, had many NOS parts AMX's etc. Yeah some good stuff AMC.
 

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That dogleg port took a so-so head design and changed it into almost the highest flowing OEM midsize engine head made, the Cleveland 351C was only a slight bit better and the AMC head modded using porting only would then pass it, the Ford exhaust port really clogged past a point.
 

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I have a 2018 Nissan Altima sv (yes I know it has shitty cvt trans) they’re nice but they are shitty if you have pretty much every person tryna race you , I never back down idc if it’s a hellcat I am gung-ho , I still consider me winning when they slow cause a cop at the intersection and I just hand them a gift certificate to GAPPLEBEES. Anyway how can I make it at least a bit faster? And trannies that can mount to it? Cs I work at a used car part lot and tear down a lot of engines and trannies but idk there any that can if I wanted to make it stick shift . Please no ass clown dick lickers douche comments thanks in advance
Look at interchangeable parts it can be changed to manual theres s video out there
 

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You'll likely need a donor wrecked parts car to pull it off correctly to get the wide number of 'interchangeable parts' you will need to pull it off. You need almost enough to build a second trans with.

It may be doable but logical in this day and time of I want it running instantly? There will be problems for most people with that.
 

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Sorry but with all the emissions stuff and regulations etc. etc. you are not going to legally swap in a manual transmission in a vehicle that was not ever designed for one. Can it be done? Yes anything can be done with big $, and the correct person and equipment. But in the end all it is good for is to sit in a museum of great idea's.
There is a lot of chatter on youtube and other places about how the epa doesn't want any car with emissions stuff removed or altered from what the manufacture did, even for racing applications, so how would they view a manual transmission swap? To do so the PCM will have to be altered or a stand alone system used, I think they are cracking down on those as well.
In a nut shell pretty much any vehicle made after 1974 or ?, can not be modified from the manufacture the power train is. Your free to put what ever sound system you like and floor mats etc.
 

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There's nothing wrong with putting MTX in place of CVT or ATX other than the effort. The correct ECM being used would have it transparent, why you need the donor car.

I once set up a carbed max emission car from '80 and no computer to run cleaner than my fairly new MPFI '88 Ford with computer controlling everything on it. The earlier car actually ran quite a bit cleaner than the injected car did (both inspected on same day) and that convinced the inspection guy to let me get by with most of the emission parts left off it. Both cars were tailpipe tested on chassis dyno with engines running up to 2500 rpm. Dad had removed all the pollution stuff off the early car and I used a cat only to get it to pass. The car even had a non-stock carb and intake on it, changed from one barrel to two barrel.

You just gotta know what to do to them.
 
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