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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all.
I finally found a little time in my crazy schedule.
This weekend I am pulling the intake on our 05 2.5l to replace the fuel injectors. There are multiple things that are telling me they are worn or stuck.
The car has alot of miles on it and is nearly all original.
I see some of these symptoms a bit but not much for an answer for the issue.
Cold start is good.
If you shut the car off and let it sit for a short while (groceries, etc...) it will not restart easily. If you push throttle to floor it starts faster.
The car always has alot of power (like a rich condition)
If you let it idle to warm up and then drive it it has a sulphur smell for a little while.
I am pretty certain one, or likely more than one injectors are stuck open.
I will post some pics of my findings when it is apart. Going to do some other cleanup while I am there.
I love this Altima. Has been extremely reliable even with almost 350k miles. Bare minimum repairs.
Best tip I can give to keeping these running reliably is to be sure the engine ground cable is good. That pesky wire causes more problems.
 

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Buy a fuel pressure gauge and cobble up the setup needed to check yours on the car. A fuel pressure check will tell you leaking injector instantly when you power engine up then shut it off. The pressure should stay up for up to an hour and better is good. It dropping almost instantly after killing the car screams injector leaks.

The gauge gets paid for the first time you use it, I've had one for 40 years and used it maybe 4 times but every time it paid for itself. Injectors are expensive and I have never had to change them ever (even one only) on any car. Not that it will stay that way now owning a Nissan. The Fords simply never need them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I have 2 fuel pressure testers. I wish there was a test port. Any recommendation of how to add one?
That would absolutely answer the question.
These are pretty common for injector issues. They are Hitachi. I have had the new ones for a year or so now but just never got to changing them.
I figure if I pull them and test them I will know where I stand. If all 4 are dry thats a good sign.
If I prime the pump I will know instantly which one(s) are leaking.
The symptoms are exactly that of the fuel leaking into a cylinder(s)
Technically I could pull the plugs after first startup settle and see if any are wet. I cannot recall But I think I had about 2 years ago. 1 or 2 were wet. It has gotten worse though as the miles increase. Got nothing to lose other than a little time at home in the garage ;)
 

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There is no one set method of a FP fitting setup, you just have to make one up for the job at hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Well Did the injectors this morning.
Was very straight forward. Nice opportunity to clean things up. Cleaned the throttle body well, inspected the butterfly screws, found 2 and 3 injectors dribbled after pressure was built. There were 2 hoses that were looser than I liked.
One from the valve cover to the intake was loose at the valve cover. (likely from the oil)
The 2nd was the one from the valve cover to the air inlet tube. A nice hose clamp snugged them right up.
Injectors were pretty easy. Once intake was off there is just 2 bolts that hold the rail down.
Remove the bolts (Note there are 2 spacer washers between the rail and the intake it bolts to)
Carefully pull the rail up evenly to dislodge the injectors from the lower intake.
The retainers just slide off from the fuel rail that retain the injectors. (it is imperative that they are installed properly)
There is a groove in the injector that the clip slides into.
I lubricated the o-rings with light grease(only the o rings)
I removed and installed them one at a time. I never unhooked the fuel supply to the rail. There was plenty of slack.
I needed no special tools for the job. Taking my sweet time The job took me less than 2 hours.
I did note that although the engine light was off I did relearn the idle. Cleaning the TB changes position of the butterfly and the opening. Before the relearn it idled at 900.
After it idled at 750..
Quick tip on the procedure that works flawlessly
1. run engine to operating temp. 165*f+
2. shut key off for 10 seconds
3. turn key on
4. after 3 seconds push throttle pedal 5 times to the floor(within 5 seconds)Release
5.wait 10 seconds. then hold throttle pedal to the floor. Engine light will flash slowly
It should flash 3 times slow, then change and start to blink more rapidly and erratic.
6.continue to hold pedal until the light goes solid
7. once it is solid let off the throttle pedal.
8. within 3 seconds start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Done
It fired right up. I let it warm up and shut it off. Let it sit for 20 minutes. It fired up nicely.
I then took it out and drove 20 miles. Shut it down. Let it sit for about 20 minutes again. Started nicely.
The engine runs so smooth. Cant even tell its running. Great for how many miles are on it.
I would love to be completely convinced the issue is resolved but only time will tell. I have thought to have had it resolved before but eventually the problem came back.
In a few weeks I will post MPG, startup, updates
 

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Discussion Starter #7
With the new injectors it runs incredibly smooth. MPG is up.
This did not resolve my starting issue though. Will Do another thread so as to not confuse this
 
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