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Discussion Starter #1
First of, it's like to say I've searched all over for info on this problem, and don't seem to find anything, so any help would be appreciated.
Basically, I had my BCM replaced a week ago a few things (blinkers, headlamp, trunk) were not working at all, this supposedly fixed all of that. At the time the AC wasn't cooling and I just assumed it was a freon issue...
Turns out the compressor isn't receiving any power at all. A regular mechanic said he couldn't figure it out, he thought it was an electrical issue. The mechanic at the dealership says it is a problem with the IPDM, and it needs to be replaced. They need to order it directly from Nissan, etc. He's saying $180 for the part, but whatever, the issue now is he can't guarantee that's the only problem... or that is actually going to fix the problem.
AC comes on, I feel HOT air coming out, and that's it. Pop the hood, compressor just doesn't turn ON/OFF when the AC is turned ON/OFF in the car... Any suggestions?
Thanks.
P.S: it is an '06 Altima.. 2.5S special edition.
 

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2010 2.5s Sedan
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First of, it's like to say I've searched all over for info on this problem, and don't seem to find anything, so any help would be appreciated.
Basically, I had my BCM replaced a week ago a few things (blinkers, headlamp, trunk) were not working at all, this supposedly fixed all of that. At the time the AC wasn't cooling and I just assumed it was a freon issue...
Turns out the compressor isn't receiving any power at all. A regular mechanic said he couldn't figure it out, he thought it was an electrical issue. The mechanic at the dealership says it is a problem with the IPDM, and it needs to be replaced. They need to order it directly from Nissan, etc. He's saying $180 for the part, but whatever, the issue now is he can't guarantee that's the only problem... or that is actually going to fix the problem.
AC comes on, I feel HOT air coming out, and that's it. Pop the hood, compressor just doesn't turn ON/OFF when the AC is turned ON/OFF in the car... Any suggestions?
Thanks.
P.S: it is an '06 Altima.. 2.5S special edition.
1. is the fuse good ?
2. is your freon level ok ? if it is , your low pressure switch could be bad , you could have the mechanic (or yourself) jump the pressure switch to see if the compressor turns on . if the compressor still doesn't turn on you have a bigger problem .
3. the magnetic clutch could be bad .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1. is the fuse good ?
2. is your freon level ok ? if it is , your low pressure switch could be bad , you could have the mechanic (or yourself) jump the pressure switch to see if the compressor turns on . if the compressor still doesn't turn on you have a bigger problem .
3. the magnetic clutch could be bad .
Thanks for the response Jim. Fuse and freon levels are ok. I'll have to try jump the pressure switch later tonight and I'll let you know how that goes. I really don't know much about fixing this kind of stuff, but I guess my biggest question is... what all does the IPDM control? (or distribute power to)
If it is bad, why is it just the AC that isn't working? shouldn't other parts be damaged as well? j/w
 

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Thanks for the response Jim. Fuse and freon levels are ok. I'll have to try jump the pressure switch later tonight and I'll let you know how that goes. I really don't know much about fixing this kind of stuff, but I guess my biggest question is... what all does the IPDM control? (or distribute power to)
If it is bad, why is it just the AC that isn't working? shouldn't other parts be damaged as well? j/w


i believe the IPDM (intelligent power distribution module) is just the main fuse and relay box

maybe the relay is bad :dunno: , but first see if the low pressure switch is bad .
 

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Here is a way to test the IPDM: Turn the ignition key to the on position, press your door switch 10 times, turn the ignition off then turn it back to the on position. If you do this right your horn will beep and the oil light will start flashing. The defroster ,headlights,cooling fans,wipers,and compressor clutch will cycle, so make sure that your hood is open so you can here the clicks of the compressor clutch. This is called the auto active test and this tests the main relays in the IPDM. If the compressor clutch clicks then its NOT the IPDM. Then i would suggest do what Jim said and test your pressure switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info guys, did the IPDM test and I hear the click, relief...
Taking it in to a different shop to get the low pressure switch looked at... and I'll go from there. Will keep you guys posted.
 

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Here is a way to test the IPDM: Turn the ignition key to the on position, press your door switch 10 times, turn the ignition off then turn it back to the on position. If you do this right your horn will beep and the oil light will start flashing. The defroster ,headlights,cooling fans,wipers,and compressor clutch will cycle, so make sure that your hood is open so you can here the clicks of the compressor clutch. This is called the auto active test and this tests the main relays in the IPDM. If the compressor clutch clicks then its NOT the IPDM. Then i would suggest do what Jim said and test your pressure switch.
Wow that should be a sticky for all that important proceduce.
At least added to a stickied thread for the information alone.
Nice one King.
Got any more ideas like this?:weightlift:
 

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Thanks for the info guys, did the IPDM test and I hear the click, relief...
Taking it in to a different shop to get the low pressure switch looked at... and I'll go from there. Will keep you guys posted.
the low pressure switch is easy to check , you just have the car running , turn the A/C on and jump the switch (take the connector off and jump the terminals) , if the A/C turns on you have a bad pressure switch .
 

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Oh yea check the evaporator temperature switch, you might have to pull the glove box to take a look at it. The A/C wont come on without that either.Hey SE-R altima driver, i like the gangsta bugs bunny lol reminds of the lot 49 T-shirts.
 

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Here is a way to test the IPDM: Turn the ignition key to the on position, press your door switch 10 times, turn the ignition off then turn it back to the on position. If you do this right your horn will beep and the oil light will start flashing. The defroster ,headlights,cooling fans,wipers,and compressor clutch will cycle, so make sure that your hood is open so you can here the clicks of the compressor clutch. This is called the auto active test and this tests the main relays in the IPDM. If the compressor clutch clicks then its NOT the IPDM. Then i would suggest do what Jim said and test your pressure switch.
I think this should be stickied as well. I never knew there was a procedure for this. Printed and put in my shop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
upon further review... I do need a new IPDM... there's power going into the IPDM but none coming out of it to the compressor... that's the issue...
2 options are... give it to the dealer and pay $400 ($180 for the part)... and hope nothing further is damaged... or shop around for my own IPDM... (which is where y'all come in...)
Any ideas where I can shop for an IPDM online?

Thanks in advance.
 

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what method of testing did you use to find out? Did you use a multimeter or something. The only reason i ask is because if you heard the compressor click on and off during the auto active test, the only way power gets to the compressor is via the IPDM. Oh well, pull out the IPDM and see if there are any relays that control the A/C and maybe you can replace just that relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
what method of testing did you use to find out? Did you use a multimeter or something. The only reason i ask is because if you heard the compressor click on and off during the auto active test, the only way power gets to the compressor is via the IPDM. Oh well, pull out the IPDM and see if there are any relays that control the A/C and maybe you can replace just that relay.
Got a hold of the manual... read quite a bit about the IPDM and it says:
CAUTION:
None of the IPDM E/R-integrated relays can be individually removed.
(it's on page 16/74 of PG.pdf in the 2006-Altima.zip file folder...)

So I'm officially in the market for a new IPDM, it's quite easy to replace so I'll do it myself. courtesyparts.com has it for $147.66 before tax and shipping... unless there's any other suggestions...

P.S: hopefully that's all it is, cos if it isn't I guess I'll have to troubleshoot the compressor :confused:
 

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Got a hold of the manual... read quite a bit about the IPDM and it says:

(it's on page 16/74 of PG.pdf in the 2006-Altima.zip file folder...)

So I'm officially in the market for a new IPDM, it's quite easy to replace so I'll do it myself. courtesyparts.com has it for $147.66 before tax and shipping... unless there's any other suggestions...

P.S: hopefully that's all it is, cos if it isn't I guess I'll have to troubleshoot the compressor :confused:
Wow that sucks, so your telling me if a relay goes bad, i got to replace a whole module? Wow new cars these days. Well 147 is not too bad, there are things that are more expensive and simpler ( can anyone say MAF sensor)
 

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Ok before you buy a new IPDM: You said that you DID hear the compressor click with the auto active test right? I think you should start checking wiring before changing the IPDM, I was reviewing the service manual and this is what it said.
Perform Auto Active test: Did A/C compressor clutch engage? Yes: troubleshoot steps

1.BCM signal input circuit
2.CAN communication signal between BCM and ECM.
3.CAN communication signal between ECM and IPDM E/R

If you replace the IPDM and one of those is the malfunction then a new IPDM is going to do no good. I'll be more then happy to help you with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok before you buy a new IPDM: You said that you DID hear the compressor click with the auto active test right? I think you should start checking wiring before changing the IPDM, I was reviewing the service manual and this is what it said.
Perform Auto Active test: Did A/C compressor clutch engage? Yes: troubleshoot steps

1.BCM signal input circuit
2.CAN communication signal between BCM and ECM.
3.CAN communication signal between ECM and IPDM E/R

If you replace the IPDM and one of those is the malfunction then a new IPDM is going to do no good. I'll be more then happy to help you with this.
Thanks a lot Kingclk... any form of help will be greatly appreciated. I had a friend who knows a bit more about these things than I do listen for the clicking sound (magnetic clutch) and he said he heard it click... so that's why I felt the IPDM wasn't bad... but I don't know... I also have the gear box issue that's been discussed in a few other threads but the "battery saver fuse" isn't bad in my case, not sure if it's tied in to any of these problems.
 

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OK go back out and do the auto active test again, just to make sure you weren't hearing the relays clicking as they were being tested. Actually look at the compressor clutch and see if its moving back and forth.The compressor will cycle 5 times.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
OK go back out and do the auto active test again, just to make sure you weren't hearing the relays clicking as they were being tested. Actually look at the compressor clutch and see if its moving back and forth.The compressor will cycle 5 times.
YES! it works... so it's one of 3 things like you said... (pg 23/74 in PG.pdf)

  1. BCM signal input circuit
  2. CAN communication signal between BCM and ECM
  3. CAN communication signal between ECM and IPDM E/R
Now the next question is... who can fix this?
The same bloody dealer who told me to replace my IPDM E/R?
Or 2 of the other mechanics who said they couldn't do it...

Or look for someone else who does electrical stuff on Nissan cars in this city?
 

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man if you weren't 5 hours from where i stay then i say bring it to my house. I got a multimeter and other assorted tools that can help figure out which one it is. Well let me look through the service manual and see what i can do. Take a look at MTC(23/106) that will show you the schematic for the A/C control. Oh yea did you ever get that pressure switch checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
man if you weren't 5 hours from where i stay then i say bring it to my house. I got a multimeter and other assorted tools that can help figure out which one it is. Well let me look through the service manual and see what i can do. Take a look at MTC(23/106) that will show you the schematic for the A/C control. Oh yea did you ever get that pressure switch checked.
Yeah wish I was in the DFW area myself, not sure when next I'll get a chance to head out there, but oh well... The last mechanic that took a look at it said the low pressure switch was bad, but he took it out and didn't charge me anything when he realized it didn't fix the problem. He was hesitant to tell me to get an IPDM cos he wasn't sure that was the problem, now the dealer just said... "oh it's the IPDM... we can't guarantee it, and Nissan won't take it back if it's the problem... but we can't go any further until we replace it... and that would be over $400" :crazy:
 
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