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Girl-Moderator
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Is it ok to change out the negative cable wire for a generic one? I know the positive one HAS to be from Nissan(1st gen). It's one of those negatives that are grounded in 2 places. Once on the block and once by the fender well. Well we ordered the negative Stinger HPM platinum terminal and it came in but he was putting it on in the dark and didn't notice it was the wrong one(for the positive) until he tried screwing it down. Well by this time he had already cut the old terminal off so he just put a generic temporarily. The wire is really short now and tight and he wants to put a longer NEG batt cable on. So can it be replaced with just a generic cable from AutoZone? Anything special about the negative cable on the Alty? He did one little piece of Stinger and the rest is all Street Wires 4 guage red. He put in a 150A Stinger fuse and we had already done the HPM Stinger platinum POS battery terminal. He's completely redoing the system; going lighter. Moving to a Lightning Audio 1000x1 to one 10" Autotek SX1066 DVC in .55 cu ft sealed box, distribution blocks, Audio Control 2way x-over, Soundstram 200 pushing Pioneer 6.5" components, 1.0F Lightning Audio cap, and he just put in our new Pioneer 6400 the other night. It's nice getting your system redone :)
 

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Nissan God
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wire is wire, but dont get generic... hell i dunno, but if it involved my stereo i'd get good wires..if its only ur battery..i dunno, u make the call
 

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No more pomegranite boobs
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but the ground wire is really important, if it is really cheap then there's no point, it will end up going bad after a year or so from weather/corrosion, and your car will start doing whacky electrical shit when the ground is no longer secure.
 

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Wheel gap solved.
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Nah wires doesnt matter just aslong as u use gauge that it needs and the wire your replaceing doesnt have a sensor on it..
Me and friends usually replace power and grounds with a 4gauge to match our ampracks and use gold termanals makes for a nice look and never has caused any problems for our cars..I have even been told thats smart to upgrade to good power and ground harness with heavyduty wires. PG Stinger Lightning ect r nice wires.. I NEVER use streetpro I have had 3 problems in the past with the cover melting when under heavy use and burnin off creating a sticky mess and having to replace my wafer fuse EWW.

You can even go as far as replaceing your frame stud for the ground PG makes a nice gold plated stud that i have used in the past.

BUTBUTBUT rember any connection is considered a short in the wire and will heat up . Rember to use more than 3foot or line.. Anything under 3foot and youll risk the chance of heating up the wire and melting the coating.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
a. The POS cable for the Alty has that little "red box" on the end. I think it has to do with the accessory memory. Jerry was gonna cut it off but just decided to put it to the side post mount of the Optima. Jello said he cut his off but he has to reset his indiglos back to the color he wants every single time, so anyway, you MIGHT be able to use just any ol POS cable, but not sure what it won't retain.

b. Yea, we were just saying that. It would go good with the platinum terminals. Gonna get the system all done first. All extra cash going to get it finished up first.



djsassan said:
a. Why does the positive cable have to be from Nissan?

b. You need an SWA tie-down for that battery.
 

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Wheel gap solved.
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Yeh ide go 0-Gauge but u should get out the sauder gun and cap the end of that wire could do it easy just unbolt it grab the sauder gun and bur bout 3inches of sauder into the end.. Make for a way better connection.

If u get it hot enuff the sauder will suck down into the caseing about a inch replace the shrink wrap and boltit back in..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So you just completely replaced your NEG cable with that ZERO guage?
That looks like an idea. And so it's only grounded at the one place where the orginal stock NEG cable grounds?

The stock NEG cable, like I said is grounded in TWO places, typical spot on the block, then another at the fender well. Anyone know what the purpose of dual grounds in the NEG wire are?


SOUND2NR said:
I CHANGED IT TO STINGER 0-GA. BOTH POWER & GROUND
HERE'S A PIC OF IT GROUNDED AT THE BLOCK
 

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Wheel gap solved.
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They ground to the block and fender for this reason.
They want or need a solid motor to frame ground then they just add the batt in to this connection.
You can use a wire termnal they make a 3 way split 0-GA block might look nice under the hood.
 

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JDS said:

BUTBUTBUT rember any connection is considered a short in the wire and will heat up . Rember to use more than 3foot or line.. Anything under 3foot and youll risk the chance of heating up the wire and melting the coating.

Hope this helps!

Are you talking about just the car battery or audio in general?
 

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Wheel gap solved.
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ALL wireing that holds a constant voltage will heat up.
So when doin anything with hi voltage its smart to always use more than 3 foot of wire anything under might heat up and melt caseing.. Better to be safe than sorry

Ever been to a show and seen some< hydralic> or however its spelled, guy hopping and all sudden FRY his stup.. This is from short lines . I once saw a 95s1 blazer with like 10 2500hcca amps 2 alternators 4 gellcells a 10farad power cap catch onfire cause of short lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
IASCAA used to be no more than 12" of wire from your battery to your first fuse. Is this still the case, anyone?


JDS said:
ALL wireing that holds a constant voltage will heat up.
So when doin anything with hi voltage its smart to always use more than 3 foot of wire anything under might heat up and melt caseing.. Better to be safe than sorry

Ever been to a show and seen some< hydralic> or however its spelled, guy hopping and all sudden FRY his stup.. This is from short lines . I once saw a 95s1 blazer with like 10 2500hcca amps 2 alternators 4 gellcells a 10farad power cap catch onfire cause of short lines.
 

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NISMO R-TUNE
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JDS said:
ALL wireing that holds a constant voltage will heat up.
So when doin anything with hi voltage its smart to always use more than 3 foot of wire anything under might heat up and melt caseing.. Better to be safe than sorry

Ever been to a show and seen some< hydralic> or however its spelled, guy hopping and all sudden FRY his stup.. This is from short lines . I once saw a 95s1 blazer with like 10 2500hcca amps 2 alternators 4 gellcells a 10farad power cap catch onfire cause of short lines.
DUDE CAR AUDIO IS LOW VOLTAGE, IT'S 12 VOLTS, NOT HI VOLTAGE, YOU MAY HAVE YOUR AMPS RUNNING AT HI CURRENT MODE,(some amps have this setting) BUT IT'S STILL LOW VOLTAGE, ANYWAY HERE'S A PIC OF MY 2 STINGER SP-800 BATTERYS WITH STINGER 0-GA. POWER & GROUND
 

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Wheel gap solved.
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Yup u r right sir change my voltage to current..


<--- slaps myself for da blunder!
OUCH

When your on 0-GA u dont need to worry about less than 6 inches.

4-GA i always do 3ft rule ive seen 12inches burn up befor.
 

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I always thought that the longer the wire, the more you loose voltage/current/whatever because of the resistence. I have heard numerous times on audio forums and other places that you want your wires(gound included) to be as short as possible.
but hey, im usually wrong when it comes to stuff like this:)
 

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NISMO R-TUNE
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Henchman said:
I always thought that the longer the wire, the more you loose voltage/current/whatever because of the resistence. I have heard numerous times on audio forums and other places that you want your wires(gound included) to be as short as possible.
but hey, im usually wrong when it comes to stuff like this:)
YES MY BROTHER THIS IS VERY TRUE, YOUR GROUND WIRE SHOULD BE AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE, BUT THE THICKER THE WIRE THE LESS RESISTENCE YOU WILL HAVE.
 
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