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Am I still a NOOB?
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question. I'm having a knock sensor prob with my car. I run 93 octane in it. I had recently gotten into an accident. I rear ended a montero sport. When that happened, the radiator basically looked like it exploded and was spewing coolant everywhere. I think some might have gotten into the alternator. After I picked my car up from the shop, it looked beautiful. Then I made a stop and came back out to my car a half hour later. I started it, put it into gear, and it shut off. I tried to start it, and it wouldn't start. It would just crank. Then I went back to the car two days later, and it started, but it wouldn't revv above 1k rpms. The check engine code told me it was the knock sensor that was the problem. A couple of other altimas.net members told me it could be the alternator. I just wanted to get some more opinions. Got any ideas?

-AltyPrince
 

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AltyPrince said:
The check engine code told me it was the knock sensor that was the problem.
That sounds like a MAF sensor problem, not a knock sensor especially since your running 93-octane gas in an engine designed for 87.
 

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Shadetree Mechanic
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Well?

That's an odd one if I've heard it before. You could check your alt. but I doubt that's it. Turn the car on and slowly turn on lights and other electrical. If the lights fade out or dimm with bass(stereo) then it might be. But if your alt. was dead your battery would be way dead by now.....I'd bring it to the garage if you don't know your shit! Good luck buddy!:confused:
 

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Am I still a NOOB?
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know my shit. It's just that one of my other friends had the same problem, and he took it into that shop and it turned out to be the alternator, which I see is very wierd, but that was the case. And I know it's already happened to Altimeezy, twice, and it was his alternator both times. So I'm kinda confused here.
 

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Am I still a NOOB?
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831 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Re: knock sensor

kenshi said:
That sounds like a MAF sensor problem, not a knock sensor especially since your running 93-octane gas in an engine designed for 87.
I'm not challenging your knowledge, but how can it be the MAF when the engine code flashed 34, which is the knock sensor according to the list of codes I had?
 

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Re: Re: Re: knock sensor

AltyPrince said:
I'm not challenging your knowledge, but how can it be the MAF when the engine code flashed 34, which is the knock sensor according to the list of codes I had?
That's ok, challenge away. I have no idea if I’m right, but when the engine doesn’t rev, it usually means that the ecu is in “fail-safe” mode and is cutting fuel to protect the engine. One thing that causes that is when something is wrong with the maf sensor circuit.
 

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hard on equipment
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I was there one night trying to start the car with Shez (AltyPrince). The engine would crank, but then it would shake and sputter and knock while erratically bouncing between 0 and 2000 RPMs and then shut off. Sounded almost like stalling out in a manual when you don't give it enough gas. Reset the ECU and got code 34 - 3 long 4 short blinks. All the wires under the hood are connected and look intact. I thought it was the distributor, but he hasn't had any engine work done....so I'm clueless.

Just thought I'd clarify the problem in question.
 

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Import Tech.
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A knock sensor will not make an engine not start !!!!!! And it will not be the Alt. if it cranks ok !!!! , Sounds like a problem in the Distribitor , make sure there is no coolant inside the Cap , if there is any moisture in the cap it could be causing the spark to go where it isnt suposed to .....
 

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SHAWN said:
A knock sensor will not make an engine not start !!!!!! And it will not be the Alt. if it cranks ok !!!! , Sounds like a problem in the Distribitor , make sure there is no coolant inside the Cap , if there is any moisture in the cap it could be causing the spark to go where it isnt suposed to .....
I was thinking it was the distributor...sucks 'cuz they're so expensive. If there is coolant or moisture inside, is it fixable or is it going to need to be replaced?
 

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Import Tech.
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Godzildo said:


I was thinking it was the distributor...sucks 'cuz they're so expensive. If there is coolant or moisture inside, is it fixable or is it going to need to be replaced?
Just blow the moisture out with air , or if you havent replaced the cap or rotor in the last 12-15k just replace them .... Another thing I was thinking about is if you got water/coolant down in the spark plug tubes , remove the plug wires and see if there is water down in the holes , if so make sure to dry it out ....
 

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Am I still a NOOB?
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanx for ur opinions guys, I'll see if I could take a look at it.

-AltyPrince
 
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