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AS long as it runs good, ie not knocking, or blowing blue smoke, or dying on you then I would just drive it.

Keep an eye on the oil, and maybe keep a few cans oil in the trunk just in case.

If you take it to the dealer they are going to rape you. I can almost promise it.
 

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Half the auto repair industry is built on people throwing unnecessary money at non existent problems...replace a dry rotted and hardened brittle pos PCV hose with a fresh piece of cut 3/8 fuel line. Same goes for the breather tube when it splits in half after molesting for the first time in its 10 year life. (1/2" maybe) you can test motor mounts by simply gently supporting the engine with a floor Jack. Or heavily braking the engine while in gear or reverse. Get to the source of the problem and ignore throwing wasted money at unhelpful and foolish repairs. If it idles rough and gets worse with a load on it (ie: in gear) think about the true possibilities of the source of the issue. In this case probably a aging harmonic balancer allowing extra vibration to be introduced at the original source of rotation (ie:the energy). A belt tensioner doesnt allow enough torque or energy to vibrate the car. Either does a alternator. (Minor vibration in the belt line at worst) But the crankshaft of the engine (the main source of the energy created when running) could certainly do so. Plugs and coils cause misfires so if theres no codes, theres no problems. Same goes for maf and similar input sensors. Look at the bigger picture and dont focus on minor ifs or maybe. And save your money for necessary repairs. If theres a rattle in exhaust : inspect it. If theres smoke...must be fire.
 

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If the mounts were not OEM ones then the issue is likely mounts. The aftermarket does not make mounts that are good for even minutes, they commonly shake in vibration right out of the box. Take a jack like previously said and put it lightly under car while vibrating at idle and a/c on even better and then lightly jack up until the jack just barely takes the load off the engine nose (pass side) of motor. If the vibration goes away then likely a mount issue.

Another way is in car with it vibrating at pure idle and then lightly touch the throttle to bring idle speed up to maybe 900 or so and higher than the pure idle of around 650-800, if the engine smoothes up again the mounts are crap.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Agree it is most likely mount related but if it isn't then low speed vibration can also be caused by dirty or leaking injectors and/or dirty throttle body plate. More common with age and high mileage.
 

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UPDATE***

Replaced the tensioner pulley and the alternator last night. The old tensioner pulley was certainly bad... when I held it in my hand and spun the pulley, I could physically feel vibration. The alternator may/may not have been bad.

The install was fairly simple but you had to work in a tight/confined space which was a bit of a pain.

Unfortunately, there is a vibration that still exists at idle and when placed into gear. Realistically, the vibration is not that bad and at this point I can probably just live with it for a while until ready to purchase a new car. Most people don't even recognize it until I point it out. With that said, the only other thing I can really think of at this point is the throttle body.

I may take the vehicle to the dealer and have them service the throttle body. Afterall, it has never been done (not one time) and the vehicle has 214k miles... who knows, maybe its causing vehicle to run rough idle.

Anyway, thank you again for all your help! There is no doubt in my mind that I replaced items that would ultimately cause issues down the road if we hadn't gone through all of the items listed in this post.

If I find the solution to the vibration, I will post another update

-Luis

Was this issue resolved, am having a similar problem with my Nissan Murano.
 
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