The Nissan Club banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok well tonight I finished up with my checklist to fix my idle issue and bad cold start engine running issue, for the ones who dont' know; my car had been running really badly below 2K RPM for quite a while, I still don't think it's completely fixed, but anyway on to the idle issue.

Well I'll run down the list of replaced parts.

Spark Plugs (OEM)
Spark Plug wires (OEM)
Ignition coil (MSD)
Fuel filter (OEM)
Fuel Pressure Regulator (Nismo)
PCV valve (OEM)
Idle air control valve (OEM) <-- This seemed to make the world of difference
All new vaccum lines and fuel lines
Cleaned out EGR valve, and replaced gasket
Ran seafoam through it

I think that is pretty much the run through for my idleing issue, and now, I can't even tell that the car is on, it idles so well. BTW if you plan on replacing the PCV valve, it is a biotch, and while your at it, if you plan on replacing the IACV do it when you do the PCV valve, it will be much better for you in the long run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hi there,
I am slowly performing most, if not all on my 01 GXE of what you have listed below. I am a novice but a technical person who can follow instruction well. Can you give me some tips on any of the below items to look out for, gotta ya's etc...

many thanks.

Brian
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well clearly the fuel system, and ignition system are the easiest to do, and it doesn't require a lot of work.

However on the PCV valve and the IACV, they can really be a biotch.

First relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Then remove the return line fuel hose, Coolant temperature sensor connector, and the little black connector below it. Next remove the passenger side wheel to give you easier access. Then release tension on the serpentine belt. Slide the belt off of the power steering pump. Remove the power steering pump mounting bolts, this gives you room to move the power steering pump hoses around for easier access. The IACV isn't to hard, it just has 4 bolts, 1 connector, and 3 hoses. Also remove the oil fitler, this will give you room to the IACV lower hose. Remove all the hoses, watch out though, coolant will go everywhere, and this is a slick messy situation. First disconnect the electrical connector, it is easiest if you do this from the top, outside, of the car. Then remove the bolts, the 2 on the underside, remove from the bottom, the 2 on the upper side remove from the top side, from outside the car. Then just pull the IACV out, scrape off the remaining gasket that is left onto the manifold.

Next the PCV valve, this is NOT fun at all, and you probably will get frustrated and want to just stop. So I recommend if you don't have much patience, don't attemp this. But for one's that do, I'll continue. The pcv valve has one hose coming into it. You can use some needle nose, and a flathead screwdriver to help push the hose back, once you get the clamp sqeezed. It helps to have a second person there to help you on this part. Once you get this off, it's much easier. Remove the 4 mounting bolts, I had a friend line the ratchet up, while I was under the car, and then I loosed them up from there. Then just pull the breather out, and remove the old PCV valve from it. From this point it is always easier to connect the vaccum hose back into the PCV valve first, before bolting in the breather seperator. If you get this in you are home free. Just bolt the breather seperator back in place, But make sure you put some RTV silicone gasket to seal up the breather seperator to the head. Then reinstall the IACV, it helps if you replace those sqeeze clamps, with ring clamps. That's what I did. The hood the IACV into the big coolant line first, this makes it easier. It helps if you line it up, and then twist back and forth to get it on. Now the gasket doesn't require any gasket maker, but it doesn't help to use a little, just to hole the gasket against the IACV while you put it back up there. I had a hard time getting this done, because the gasket kept wanting to fall off. I eventually got it, and was able to hand start the first lower bolt, that was closest to me. Then I put the top bolts in. I had to move the gasket over a bit with a flat head screwdriver, to line it up, and then I just bolted everything back together. Then put the two smaller coolant lines back on. Lastly hook up the electrical connector.

Next put your oil filter back in place. Then bolt the power steering pump back in place. This can also be a pain. Hook the serpenting belt back onto the pulley, and then tighten the belt back up. Put the wheel on, refill the radiator from the loss of the coolant, and your ready to go.
 

·
Rest in Peace Betsy QQ
Joined
·
485 Posts
skylineawd said:
Ignition coil (MSD)
Fuel filter (OEM)
Fuel Pressure Regulator (Nismo)
PCV valve (OEM)
Idle air control valve (OEM)
All new vaccum lines and fuel lines
Cleaned out EGR valve, and replaced gasket
Ran seafoam through it
QUOTE]


how much did all this cost? cuzz i was planning to do the same stuff, maybe all oem tho, but haven't priced anything out yet.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top