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Ok, I don't want to get the trunk subwoofers but decided to get good quality interior speakers. I also want to get an amp but for interior speakers do i need to get a 1000W amp?

I don't really know how to go about figuring out whether the amp needs to be higher watts than the speaker.

This is what i THINK so far:
-if i get 4 speakers, let's say 2-55 watts RMS and 220W peak wattage, does the amp have to be 880+ watts (220W x 4) or does it have to be 220+ watts (55W x 4)? What i'm trying to understand is will the amps power be divided between the 4 speakers?

-when buying the speakers, do i look at the RMS watts or the peak power watts to know what amp i need?
 

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unknown_g said:
when buying the speakers, do i look at the RMS watts or the peak power watts to know what amp i need?
it's all about the RMS.

I'm not fully educated about upfronts or interior speakers, but I can repeat what I've heard from others on here and other sites.

There's basically no reason to have your rear speakers powered, due to sound staging purposes. Think about this: if you were at a concert, would you have any sound coming from behind you? For this reason, people usualy spend good money on components for frontends rather then speakers at all four corners. Yes, there is a reason for rear speakers, rear fill for passengers, but just throw a cheap set of coaxials in there, and don't both amplifying them.

However, if you want to amplify four sets of speakers, what you have to do is look for a four channel amp. Most of these amps will be power something like 50x4 or 75x4, which is RMS. Match this value to your speakers recomended RMS value. If you're paranoid about it, get an amp with LESS rms powering than the speakers recomened then you won't have to worry about overpowering. But with today's technology, this generally isnt a problem anymore, as long as the gains on the amp and h/u are set up properly.

As for subs, the soundstaging does not apply here. Bass under a certain frequency (and I forget where) is said to be non-directional. You basically match the subs the same way as the fronts with the rms values. However, they're going to be higher, ie over ~250 rms, because of the needed power to make bass frequencys in speakers.

Best of Luck. I know others will help out. Ask any more questions if needed, but lots of this has been covered elsewhere and before on here.. so search a bit first!
 

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assassin is right. SQ competitions are judged by the front stage. I think you would be fine with just your stock rear speakers, cuz like assassin said, they aren't half as important as your front speakers. Subwoofers are run in mono, and all mono sound is non-directional. Do you have any specific speakers in mind? I'm guessing that more people could help you with actual products and point you in the right direction to get started. Although it is important to know some sound theory, it's not that big of a deal if you just want to improve your system a little. Let us know what you're thinking.
 

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assassin said:

I love it when I hear that :D
Except I would usually slightly overpower the speakers. Not that it's bad to underpower them, but if the amp is driven into clipping (with improperly set gains), the VC on the amp will heat up and eventually become unwound. Slightly overpowering them COULD (won't definatly), but could prevent this from happening. All though improperly set gains will always be the main cause of speakers blowing. Or the user trying to push too much out of his/her speakers. Many speakers and component sets are also often underated and can handle much more. For example an Infinity Perfect rated at 350W RMS can easily handle 450-500W RMS. As long as it's a clean signal. I would suggest buying a 60x4 or a 75x4W amp for 55W speakers!!!

And as for the staging, I wouldn't get into that with him. Most regular audio users just want the sound. If you start getting into staging/imaging, you have a center channel to think about, as well as a little bit of power for rear ambience. Also start taking into consideration wavelengths of different sounds, and aiming. Just stick to basics if they don't seem to be too 'into audio'. But... nonetheless I do agree with assassin's recommendations! :D
 

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I tuned my speakers so my fronts and back sound about equal from the driver and passenger seat. It sounds nice, like from all around. In the back, all you can hear are my 6x9's but up front it sounds nice. mind you my front speakers are the most expensive speakers in the car.
 

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I generally agree with rlaing on this, overpowering speaker is (I think) a lot safer than under powering them. Clipped signals from underpowered amps is usually worse than overpowering them. I don't know what you (rlaing) meant by voice coils becoming unwound. When voice coils overheat, they generally either get severed or the coil melts and fuses together.
 

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poisonfist said:
I generally agree with rlaing on this, overpowering speaker is (I think) a lot safer than under powering them. Clipped signals from underpowered amps is usually worse than overpowering them. I don't know what you (rlaing) meant by voice coils becoming unwound. When voice coils overheat, they generally either get severed or the coil melts and fuses together.
something along those lines. I meant it had unwound, cause I did that to one of my subs (or so I figured). I was underpowering it, and sending the amp into clipping. The subs started sending the amp into protection real quickly one day. I took out the subs, one was reading 3.X ohms, and the other was reading somewhere around 0.4 ohms. Since they were both SVC 4 ohms subs, i figured that since the impedance is dependant on how the voice coils are wrapped (or so I thought), it must have unravelled.
 
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