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*NOOBIES* - The "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A GENERAL 4TH GEN QUESTION" thread

68809 Views 254 Replies 85 Participants Last post by  Throckmorton
I'm copying this from the 3rd gen section. Please stick to the rules and we will help you the best we can. We are trying to cut down on the excess clutter causing vital info to be lost.


Rules are simple:
1) NOOBS only! If you have any question pertaining to the GENERAL MAKEUP of a 4th generation Altima Sedan, ask it here.
2) If a member chooses to answer the question, please quote it to keep the confusion to a minimum.
3) NO FLAMING!
4) No SPAM whatsoever.
5) No post-whoring.
6) This is NOT a substitute for using the SEARCH FUNCTION! We are more then fortunate enough to have an administrator that has allowed us to use it so if you feel that your question may have been asked before, just SEARCH!

I'm getting tired of newbs coming on here and making a new thread every single time they have a question. This way they have a single thread to ask their questions in. This is also a simple way to meet the members that have been on the forum for years.

Ask away!
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sounds like your ECU may need a reflash, or you have a bad ground on the new cluster
Does a glove box/door from a 10-12 fit an 07-09? I see they have different, but very similar part numbers (just letters at the end different). Color option change or something? Either way, color or fit, if it is not right it won't work.
Hey, new here. Looking at getting a 2009-2011 Altima. I'm really unfamiliar with this make/model. Wondering what I should be looking out for... or avoiding? I'm looking at Auto or Manual.

Thanks in advance.
Warning, noob here. My Daughters 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5s with CVT is having electrical gremlins. Engine misfire, replaced coils, ran for a couple of weeks. Check engine light, emissions, replaced primary cats, ran for a couple weeks. Check engine light, replaced carb for TPS, ran for a couple of weeks. Now car stuck in driveway. Engine will start but stall when placed in drive or reverse. Not low idle but as if computer is shutting engine off. Please give some guidance for this shade tree mechanic to help get his daughters ride going again.
Crank/Cam position sensors? Any codes being thrown?
Cant get it out of the driveway to go to autozone and get the codes pulled.
Will idle all day, but as soon as move into D or R engine stops.
Xmas present -code reader!
codes are
P2101
P2119
P2135
Previously replaced throttle body, and throttle pedal assembly and had throttle relearn performed at dealer.
Erased codes and drove 160 miles without issue, now problem has started again.
Same codes. Lack of throttle response.
Seems to happen when car is warm and heat builds up under the hood? Any ideas?:crying
Cracked radiator would do that on the way to heating up. Not sure about doing it after being warm.
Good afternoon gentlemen.... i am "the noob". The noob wishes you all wellbeing, high revs and good gas mileage. The noob is wanting to know what kind of calamities might befall a 2012 Altima SL 2.5 CVT. It has a whopping 58xxx and is pretty well loaded to the hilt minus nav. Words of wisdom are welcome. Good day gentlemen
The transmission will likely be the worst issue. Look around and see how many of them fail way ahead of time. Nissan will be known (and judged) well into the future for that crap trans design and implementation.
Agree, but 2012 was the final run of the Gen4 Alti's...and it's CVT has a much better track record (still poor relative to the rest of the world) than the 2013 refresh which has been plagued by CVT failures. Given the choice, I'd take the '12 over a '13 (assuming that's the market/price range you are playing in) seven days a week if you know it was never abused (which includes ex-rentals, the famous '1 lady owner' vehicles, and curb-siders and anything that doesn't match up (paint, repair history records, annual tax stickers, etc.). If you don't get good answers...walk.
Agree, but 2012 was the final run of the Gen4 Alti's...and it's CVT has a much better track record (still poor relative to the rest of the world) than the 2013 refresh which has been plagued by CVT failures. Given the choice, I'd take the '12 over a '13 (assuming that's the market/price range you are playing in) seven days a week if you know it was never abused (which includes ex-rentals, the famous '1 lady owner' vehicles, and curb-siders and anything that doesn't match up (paint, repair history records, annual tax stickers, etc.). If you don't get good answers...walk.
thats actually really good to hear man. it was my moms car, she passed away in july, and im buying it from my dad. They bought it brand new in late '11 and ive driven it on 18+ hour road trips a few times. Its been a soldier every time ive ever been behind the wheel and my mom drove it with a very light right foot. 58 thousand very careful miles and meticulous care by my retired oil exec dad who is very anal about oil changes and so forth. The only issue the car has is that my brother was driving it once and turned too sharply one time and ran the rear passenger quarter into the bumber pf a stationary truck which caused some sheetmetal dents, but nothing structural. This accident was repaired by a very reputable place, the place where it was originally bought actually, and has been issue free even since then. this instills a fair amount of confidence. thanks fellas!!

edit: oops, when i went to upload my avatar, i realized it was only 577xx miles
If you have a little extra cash left over, you might consider having the dealer flush the CVT fluid as some serious PM against future issues. This will rack up a few hundred but is cheaper than the $2-4K to replace the CVT.

Replace the air filters (cabin and engine), and run a bottle of injector cleaner (with PEA additive (read the label, all are not equal)) once or twice a year...ideally at the start of one of those 18h trips...and if it's still the factory battery, replace it. You should get another 60Kmi easily out of it.
If you have a little extra cash left over, you might consider having the dealer flush the CVT fluid as some serious PM against future issues. This will rack up a few hundred but is cheaper than the $2-4K to replace the CVT.

Replace the air filters (cabin and engine), and run a bottle of injector cleaner (with PEA additive (read the label, all are not equal)) once or twice a year...ideally at the start of one of those 18h trips...and if it's still the factory battery, replace it. You should get another 60Kmi easily out of it.
another 60k out of the car period? also, thank you for replying man.
^^Nope, just until your next post ;)
anyone still active here? i just bought an 08 altima 2.5s from an auction and i was looking to get service records. it seems like the previous owner(s) took pretty good care of it, but after reading about the trans issues im worried about it. its at 142k miles so i figure if the trans would have gone out it would have happened a long time ago.

is there any site i can see service records for free, or is carmax the only place? there was a service sticker in the window from the local nissan dealership, and after checking the fluids, looks like genuine trans fluid is in it. the right color anyway. the oil wasnt too dark either. seems like the previous owner took it to the dealer for routine maintaiince but i want to be sure. i dont have much money so unnessicary maintaince isnt in my budget, but ill scrape together what i need to for needed maintaince.

no codes but the tire pressure light is constantly on. youtubers say to deflate each tire to a specific psi and ground a wire under the stearing column. so ill probably do that tomorrow.

i have no idea the history on this car and want a (free) site to figure out service reccords. if one exists.

thanks
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don't bother doing the tire pressure thing...the batteries in the pressure sensors have died. My '09s light has been on for a couple of years now.

I don't think you'll get service records, except from original owner, but dealer should be able to tell you the status of any recalls and CARFAX will report any major collision/insurance stuff.

Those CVTs are always a great big financial ticking bomb and you never know when she's going to go.
Hi wondering if anybody has the same issue (I've noticed it on other Altimas on the road). The rear end on my 2008 is lower than the front. Not much lower but enough that it's noticeable. The space between the tires and wheel well is definitely notable. I'm not the original owner and don't think the shocks have been replaced. Is this a common issue and if so will replacing the shocks fix it? The car runs great and the suspension seems perfectly fine, it just doesn't look good. Someone told me I need adjustable shocks. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
My 2009 is exactly the same. It's a spring issue, not a shock issue. Some people have replaced their springs with springs from the Hybrid (they are heavier duty because of the battery pack weight).
So I’m new to Nissan club but I have a 2012 Altima coupe 6MT and I ordered a aftermarket air intake but when I installed it the car would start up and rough idle and then cut back off. I unhooked the battery while installing trying to reset the ECU but nothing. I can put the factory air box on and car fires up fine. Please help. Thanks in advance!
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