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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi..first off, i finally hit enough miles for my change at 3700...the dealer screwed me with the bullshitz oil change deals...so i got mad and screw them..never going back ever...today is sunday and i don't think jiffy lube is open and took it to wal-mart...i ended up according to the paper they gave me 3.6 qts of oil...seems a little low is it not..what should i do..go back and make them or add myself..i wanted to change my own oil but i got lazy and had to shop for stuff at wal-mart too...so it was convenient for me...well please..suggestions? thanks and bye
 

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friend of mine is a mechanic, into professionaly racing boats and a dealer for racing parts.

turned me on to a great oil. amsoil 2000 series fully 100% synthetic oil.

this is the best part. oil change at 35,000 miles
oil filter change at 10,000 and add oil as needed to replace what was in the filter

its a little pricy ($8 a quart) but you get 3 years out of it. actually notice my cars run quieter and smoother.

for our car, he suggests 0w-30.

just thought i would pass this info along
http://www.amsoil.com/products/tso.html
 

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he also reccomenda HASTINGS oil filters. as soon as i find out the model number i will post it up.
(still waiting for my oil filter for my altima, right now am using Fram double guard DG7317)
 

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maybe they didn't change the filter, hence the low fill volume? see if you got a new filter.
Jae
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hey thanks for the info...i really love my car and take care of it no doubt...i wouldn't even let my own family/friend take it for even a short trip man...i gotta take them wen needed...so i know my car is in good hands..haha..well i gotta chek on the filter thing..this is so lame that i don't know where it is..i really havent look..help would be great..i sure wll chek out amsoil(thanks gtw00)..c ya later


JRizzo777: dude, exactly know the saying..i shoulda did it myself but im so motorically challenged..i should start learning eh..


Altimat: your car is really tight..wish had some extra dough to enhance an already great vehicle...
 

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There is one major problem with Amsoil 2000. It's not API Certified!

I will NOT use any oil that can't meet this certification.

It contains higher levels of phosphates and zinc that can cause premature cat wear - but make it more slippery.
 

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U took the words

JRizzo777 said:
Most of the time the good old saying " If you want something done right do it yourself " still holds true !! :D
Straight outa my mouth
 

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javentre said:
There is one major problem with Amsoil 2000. It's not API Certified!

I will NOT use any oil that can't meet this certification.

It contains higher levels of phosphates and zinc that can cause premature cat wear - but make it more slippery.
benn using it in my truck now for over 3 years. never had a problem with things like that. maybe if the car "burns" oil and its emmited out through the exhust. but other than that not exactly sure how it would effect the cat.
 

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all cars consume some oil. whether you can notice this or not is something different - but they all do.

I use Mobil 1 - for 2 reasons - it's always rated in the top 3 of all the oil tests I've seen. Even amsoil's own tests show it being in the #2 (yes, theirs is #1 - biased?).

There are a lot of manufacturers that use Mobil 1 from the factory - BMW (somewhat of an advocate of extended drain intervals) - Porsche and a few others - including Chevrolet with the Corvette. I am not aware of ANY manufacturers that use or have ever used Amsoil from the factory. Does this make mobil 1 a good product because of it - no - but it's a good sign that it's one of the better ones.

If amsoil is so good why do they sell through their pyramid schemes? Why can't you find it in your local Wal Mart, Trak Auto, Pep Boys or Autozone?
 

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before i started using amsoil i was going to go with mobil 1. heard good stuff about it, but my friend turned me on to the amsoil cause he is a dealer just gave it to me didn't cost me a thing.
why cant you get it in wallmart. well its used widely on the racing circut designed for those types of engines, but can be used in reguelar street cars.
and when it comes to marine applications this stuff is huge. my friend races scarabs, he and about 97% of the others in the race use this stuff.
with the abuse they put they put on the engines. kinda made me believe that its got to be good stuff.

now most of these guys run with 5w-30. but i was told to go with 0w-30 for a street car application.

everyone is different, and when you find something you like you stick with it.
 

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GTW00 said:
well its used widely on the racing circut designed for those types of engines, but can be used in reguelar street cars.
and when it comes to marine applications this stuff is huge.
None of the places you say it's used a lot have cat's attached to their exhausts.

Majority of the marine and racing engines I've seen don't even have an EGR.

I don't doubt that it's great in the racing scene - but our cars are neither outboard engines or racing engines. They don't have 1/5 of the amount of emission equipment that we do and can be easily screwed up. Heck .... some racing fuels still contain lead .... try running that in your Nissan

Why isn't their Amsoil 2000 stuff certified? I've seen some oil for 45 cents / qt and it was certifed. Their XL7500 oil is API certified...but that doesn't have an extended drain interval - it's only 7500 miles. The only products that can pass the test are:
http://www.api.org/cgi-bin/eolcs_li.cgi?n=amsoil


Oil's do impact emission systems - note:

http://api-ep.api.org/quality/index...=display_body&er=1&bitmask=002001005004000000

"F-3/SL engine oils are intended to provide improved fuel economy and emission system protection, better control of high-temperature deposits, and lower oil consumption."
 

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oils

First,for the people that get the oil done at nissan,what brand do they use.I just found mine in long beach uses mobil 1.Also c reports did a oil test a couple a years ago on new engins they put in new york taxies and botton line is after many different brands and lots of miles,broke down engins and saw no difference from brand to brand and also said 5-7000 between oil changes are fine because of oil addvances over the years.They put as many as 15000 before checking oils and they were ok and no wear on engine parts.
 

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nissan dealerships gets their oil from a different distributer. This means that one place may have castrol, another may have Pennzoil, almost all offer Mobil1 for an added cost. As long as it meets the specs that Nissan Corp. sets out - they are okay. Nissan says it must meet "API SJ" I believe. Why they didn't say SL I don't know.

2nd .... Consumer Reports is Biased. They take advertising money from all types - look in their catalog. If you believe that that money doesn't influence their #1 and #2 ratings when it comes down to the wire....you had better think again. Yes, they are good for some stuff, but I don't trust them for a lot.
 

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Here's a lil gossip (don't take my word, I just heard it and haven't researched it yet).
We all know that Mobil 1 is the only true synth oil out there. They've been taking other oil companies to court cuz everybody else claims to be synth, but they're really synth blends. Court rules against Mobil, saying everybody else can do what they want as long as some part of it is Synth. I don't know where synth "blend" came from...maybe in 1 of the rulings.
Anyways, a recent ruling pissed Mobil 1 off and so they're gonna do a blend now and still call it Synth. There's no reason they couldn't cut costs by doing a blend since the courts aren't on their side. They'll probably continue to charge the higher price cuz people still think they're 100% synth.

I will do some research on this later, but it's quite possible that Mobil will be going back to a blend. Darn, that sucks. Maybe Amsoil is the best bet then.
Jae
 

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Toyota & Honda

Send hookers to the guys doing the testing for complimentary hummers............Over there at CR
 
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