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Hazardously WASTED
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friend of mine is a mechanic, into professionaly racing boats and a dealer for racing parts.

turned me on to a great oil. amsoil 2000 series fully 100% synthetic oil.

this is the best part. oil change at 35,000 miles
oil filter change at 10,000 and add oil as needed to replace what was in the filter

its a little pricy ($8 a quart) but you get 3 years out of it. actually notice my cars run quieter and smoother.

for our car, he suggests 0w-30.

just thought i would pass this info along
http://www.amsoil.com/products/tso.html
 

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he also reccomenda HASTINGS oil filters. as soon as i find out the model number i will post it up.
(still waiting for my oil filter for my altima, right now am using Fram double guard DG7317)
 

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javentre said:
There is one major problem with Amsoil 2000. It's not API Certified!

I will NOT use any oil that can't meet this certification.

It contains higher levels of phosphates and zinc that can cause premature cat wear - but make it more slippery.
benn using it in my truck now for over 3 years. never had a problem with things like that. maybe if the car "burns" oil and its emmited out through the exhust. but other than that not exactly sure how it would effect the cat.
 

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before i started using amsoil i was going to go with mobil 1. heard good stuff about it, but my friend turned me on to the amsoil cause he is a dealer just gave it to me didn't cost me a thing.
why cant you get it in wallmart. well its used widely on the racing circut designed for those types of engines, but can be used in reguelar street cars.
and when it comes to marine applications this stuff is huge. my friend races scarabs, he and about 97% of the others in the race use this stuff.
with the abuse they put they put on the engines. kinda made me believe that its got to be good stuff.

now most of these guys run with 5w-30. but i was told to go with 0w-30 for a street car application.

everyone is different, and when you find something you like you stick with it.
 

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ThurzNite said:
Here's a lil gossip (don't take my word, I just heard it and haven't researched it yet).
We all know that Mobil 1 is the only true synth oil out there. They've been taking other oil companies to court cuz everybody else claims to be synth, but they're really synth blends. Court rules against Mobil, saying everybody else can do what they want as long as some part of it is Synth. I don't know where synth "blend" came from...maybe in 1 of the rulings.
Anyways, a recent ruling pissed Mobil 1 off and so they're gonna do a blend now and still call it Synth. There's no reason they couldn't cut costs by doing a blend since the courts aren't on their side. They'll probably continue to charge the higher price cuz people still think they're 100% synth.

I will do some research on this later, but it's quite possible that Mobil will be going back to a blend. Darn, that sucks. Maybe Amsoil is the best bet then.
Jae
mobil 1 ISN'T the only synth out there
 

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javentre said:
I wonder what amsoil will do for a situation like this:
http://www.autonews.com/article.cms?articleId=38921

what if their extended drain caused a sludging problem - which is very very likely with toyota's engines atleast the 3.0 - with normal oil. You couldn't prove you changed your oil per the mfr suggested - you did it 1 time in the past 2 years - and 25000 miles - cause amsoil said so. so toyota won't honor any warr for you. now you write amsoil .... are they going to say - oh well you've got a defective engine - it's toyota's problems.
here is a little tip.. if you pull out your dip-stick and you have to scrape the slude off, maybe you should change your oil more often.

i have been using amsoil for over 2 years now. ill be the only one here that doesn't bash the product, but recomends it.
i always check my oil at least once a mo. (check level). most of the junk (i would say 99%) gets collected but the filter. and oil nice and clean.

now the reason oil becomes sludgy (if thats a word) is cause it breaks down due to the heat of the engine. when i change my filter, i take a look at the oil (amsoil) thats inside it. looks no different then when i put it in, (still translucent not black and tar like).

im not saying you all have to stop using what you are and switch to this, everyone has their own opnion of what they like. but if you never used the product then dont say crap about it. if you have input, talk from experience not from what a magazine or the label of another product says.
 

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javentre said:
you didn't notice the oil sludging in the toyota engine problem on the dipstick - it wasn't that obvious. oil was pooling in the head causing sluding in the pooled oil - but the stuff in the pan wasn't bad at all.
sounds to me its a manufacturing problem on toyotas end not a brand oil. tell me something if you pot a pot on the stove and pour oil in it it will tar up on you. all petrolium base products will. what do you think roadways are made from.

if you ever look at the process of crude oil, it is heated up and it seperates. the top layer is your karoseen (spell?)
next is car gas, the deisel fuel, then motor oil, then road tar and asphalt.

i think there might be some more in there but you get the point.

the thing with synthetics is that they aren't petro based and can withstand higher temperatures. they might thicken under high heat but wount varnish the engine.
 

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a friend of mine had a similar problem with his 86 cougar. (v6)

the lifters (2) got clogged and wore out his cam shaft, (was running on 4 of the 6 cyl)
 
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