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I have a 2005 SeR with 114 K, oil pressure gauge reads low (0 @ idle) and has done so for over a year. When I first noticed the issue are replaced the sender, it's a little or no difference at idle which reads the 0 at hot Idle in gear ( if it really had zero pressure at idle it would have been knocking a long time ago) since it is my wife's car and probably did so for quite a while before I noticed.

The car has never had the oil light come on or thrown a code. Last week I had a local shop put a mechanical gauge on the engine to see if pressure was adequate or way below spec. When we got the car back the oil light started coming on for the first time ever. I sent the car back and he replaced the sender yet again. And it still does it at a hot idle in gear. I replaced oil and filter this weekend no change. Went to 10w40 mobil 1. I'm not sure if the computer got a reading of no pressure while it was tested with mechanical gauge this is a residual effect from that or...

Does the idiot light in the gauge cluster indicate low pressure or just low oil level? Also does the sender talk to the ECU or is that just power the gauge? I have never seen the low oil light until we checked the pressure with mechanical gauge and it has not thrown a code.

Any input would be appreciated I would just like to get the oil light to turn off and make sure there's not some other problem. Note: the mechanical reading came back way above spec 30 psi idlel however, I'm not convinced the car was adequately warmed and I'm sure it wasn't in gear.

Thanks, S.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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It's probably a wire/connector issue rather than a sensor, which as made worse with the recent work...repair or replace as much of the wire pigtail that goes to the oil sender unit as you can. I always pack exposed connectors like that with silicone based dielectric (spark plug release) grease to keep moisture out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I spoke to the shop and he stated that the car wasn't fully warm so the pressures are not accurate and likely much lower than previously stated. Going to retest later in the week. I'll check out the pigtail as well.
 

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What does the factory gauge read when the car is on the road a highway speed?

I know some of the Ford Mustang gauges had a "high", and "low" reading on some of the gauges [and yes, that meant the gauges weren't that accurate]. So an oil gauge might read either quit reading either low, or high depending on which resistor went bad.

Sounds like if your factory gauge is reading correctly on the highway, and zero at idle, it might be that the gauge is bad. ..........just a guess.
 

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Red 06 Altima SE-R Owner
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I have a 2005 SeR with 114 K, oil pressure gauge reads low (0 @ idle) and has done so for over a year. When I first noticed the issue are replaced the sender, it's a little or no difference at idle which reads the 0 at hot Idle in gear ( if it really had zero pressure at idle it would have been knocking a long time ago) since it is my wife's car and probably did so for quite a while before I noticed.

The car has never had the oil light come on or thrown a code. Last week I had a local shop put a mechanical gauge on the engine to see if pressure was adequate or way below spec. When we got the car back the oil light started coming on for the first time ever. I sent the car back and he replaced the sender yet again. And it still does it at a hot idle in gear. I replaced oil and filter this weekend no change. Went to 10w40 mobil 1. I'm not sure if the computer got a reading of no pressure while it was tested with mechanical gauge this is a residual effect from that or...

Does the idiot light in the gauge cluster indicate low pressure or just low oil level? Also does the sender talk to the ECU or is that just power the gauge? I have never seen the low oil light until we checked the pressure with mechanical gauge and it has not thrown a code.

Any input would be appreciated I would just like to get the oil light to turn off and make sure there's not some other problem. Note: the mechanical reading came back way above spec 30 psi idlel however, I'm not convinced the car was adequately warmed and I'm sure it wasn't in gear.

Thanks, S.
Hi, I'm new with an 06 SER with the same problem. In the end, what what the issue? How was it resolved? Thanks.
 

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Its normal.

I've rebuilt my engine, and platicgauged everything to specs, and when I first noticed the gauge reading around zero at idle I almost pissed myself.

Its just what they read at idle, but if it reads that at cruising speed its NOT normal. Mine reads around the middle of the gauge at driving speed.

Also, I live in the south so it gets pretty hot during the summer months, so I switch to 10/40 for the summer months which puts the oil gauge at around 10 psi at idle. Just piece of mind for me.
 

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If it is an electrical OP gauge then that is typical, I have never seen one be dead on ever. Why a true mechanical is so much better.
 

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For the record, you "might" get a check engine light with the heavier oil as the oil is what your variable cam timing uses to advance the cams.

I got a cel when I changed to the heavier oil. I can't remember the code, but it was something like camshaft bank A over advancing, and camshaft bank B over advancing. I thought at first it was the electrical solenoids on the valve covers going bad as I think they were still OEM, but after buying new solenoids I still had the code. [I erased the codes, but they returned]

After a question about oil viscosity I posted on another forum was it stated that non oem spec oil could alter cam timing on these type engines.

In the fall when I changed back to the factory weight oil those cams over advancing codes didn't return after I erased them.
 

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Really. I was warned about that on a Ford variable cam timing one and never ran into the problem at all. Ran straight 30 and 40 (summer in Texas), against a spec of 5-20 as 'needed' for many years. Still running 15-40 in that one right now at 230K miles. Running the same in my Versa now and zero issues with that VCT setup too. I won't use a 5W- oil at all, here in Texas, too thin. I tend to stay outside the 'stated oil needed' box, it is a solid way to push up the OCI interval.
 

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Really. I was warned about that on a Ford variable cam timing one and never ran into the problem at all. Ran straight 30 and 40 (summer in Texas), against a spec of 5-20 as 'needed' for many years. Still running 15-40 in that one right now at 230K miles. Running the same in my Versa now and zero issues with that VCT setup too. I won't use a 5W- oil at all, here in Texas, too thin. I tend to stay outside the 'stated oil needed' box, it is a solid way to push up the OCI interval.
Its not going to hurt anything as all it does is either advance, or retard the cams. The only thing that would be a problem is if the Nissan ecm put it in limp mode [for which I'm actually surprised it didn't].

I agree that one weight oil is just too broad of a blanket for everywhere in the world. Here in the south it gets very hot during the summer months, and in places like AZ it gets to almost 120 deg for many days [I know a member from another forum who lives there]. Then, you have places like Fargo, and such where it gets really cold in the winter vs down here in the south.

So, I like having a heavier weight oil for our hot summer months, if for nothing else, just piece of mind. Were I living close to Canada, or in Canada I would most likely run the factory 5-30 in the summer, and go even thinner for winter like a 0w/15 or so.
 

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X2, you must acknowledge the climate you are in. I stayed with single weight oils because they were Walmart cheap and the weight is what the number says, unlike multi-vis in which the true oil weight is the lower number. That way I can run the oil longer even with the additives wearing out as the oil does not thin nearly so much. The single weights forever also had a bit more zinc in them until the EPA finally changed that too. So far I have seen no compelling reason to change to expensive syn oil, I go to 9K OCIs now as it is and using the cheapest crap oil and the engines run forever.

Sort of a self dare thing. I used to obsessive compulsive trying to drag every bit of hp. out of race cars, once married all that disappears if you want to keep the wife and I turned all that inward to make myself self-train to do anything that any car ever requires to keep them running.
 
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