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Discussion Starter #1
I am now pushing a 2005 Altima with 2.5l because it will spin over but fails to start. No codes show on my snap-on scanner. It has no spark, the tack does not move. We changed the crank sensor, and no change.
My scanner said that it should have 5 vdc on one pin of the connector and that the sensor should ohm out at 165 to 200 ohms. When I tested the plug I had 12 vdc and the sensor reads open across all the pins.
Has anyone else had this trouble, if so what do I do next?:banghead:
 

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Ok need more info:

Did you rebuild the motor? did it die when driving.

2.5' have horrible ground connections and alternators. is the batt light on?

when you turn the key to acc do you hear a bzt click....hold .....bzt click of the throttle body actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you rebuild the motor? did it die when driving.

2.5' have horrible ground connections and alternators. is the batt light on?

when you turn the key to acc do you hear a bzt click....hold .....bzt click of the throttle body actuator.

It was running ok when it was shutdown and the next day it sputtered when we tried to start and then nothing. It just spins over.
As far as the engine is concerned, it appears to be the original engine we just got the car.
I will check on the throttle actuator today and get back to you, I don't think the battery light was on.
Thanks for your help. Do you have access to a pinout of the ecm connector? I would like to check the harness between the crank and cam connectors and the ecm.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
akashmer
I checked the car today and when I turn the key to run, and the throttle body actuator does not move or make any sound. I moved the inlet hose and looked at the throttle plate and it does not move at all. Also the battery light goes out while cranking.
 

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i havent heard anything like this...did you check and make sure there are no grounds anywhere on the frame...any wires pinched....check the connections under the hood...one might have gotten lose...and shorted something out with water...could be the PCM
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well, I am thinking pcm, but I would like to check the harness for shorts or opens before I go the pcm route. That is why I was looking for a pinout on the connectors for the crank and cam sensors to the pcm. Thanks for your help.:)
 

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Did you figure this out? I am in the same boat. No spark. No codes. Bought it not running, new timing set and head. New crank sensor. Replaced cam sensor with old crank sensor. Nothing. Won't even cough. Not even on starting fluid.
 

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Check the neutral cable under the battery when i rebuilt my motor it came off from corrosion. I rebuilt it and poof started right up.
 

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DO NOT EVER EVER USE Starting fluid on your engine! To many electronic parts... it can go boom. Leave that shit for diesels and lawn mowers.
 

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On mine, I had the cams one tooth off from the crank. If I unplugged the cam sensor, it would start. Once started, I could plug the cam sensor back in and she would run. But would give me hell starting. Luckily, you can remove the timing inspection cover and valve cover and pull cam gears and tensioner. Rotate the cams to we're they need to be and put it all back together. There isn't enough room between the crank pulley and the timing cover for the chain to come off the crank pulley.
 

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Actually, you never ever want to use starting fluid on a diesel. Since a diesel uses a constant heating element (glow plugs or a heating grill on cummins), there is no way to control the ignition. On a gas motor, spark is variable and only one cylinder will fire at a time. On a diesel, every cylinder is heated and the fuel is what controls "fire". So it you spray starting fluid in a diesel, and it hits every cylinder, then it fires on every cylinder at once.

Starting fluid it fine on these qr25de's. The butterfly valves in the intake and the throttle by wire butterfly valve is the only thing that is different than any other motor. The butterfly's in the intake are vacuum controlled. The throttle body drive by wire is internally the same, just instead of a throttle cable, there is a solenoid.
 

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We always had to use starter fluid on our Cress carrier at the plant. (cold rolled steel big ass monster forklift) Older tech no heater...its glow plugs sucked. Not like our new Benz motor... :) which has a big sign. NO ST. FLUID.


So ya. whatever.... :sleep: I guess my point is you shouldn't need it ever.

The timing marks on the fly wheel I found to be REALLY confusing at first try. The first time around I was 35 (or whatever :) ) deg out of phase.

Make sure you have the right timing mark on the fly wheel.
 

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On mine, I had the cams one tooth off from the crank. If I unplugged the cam sensor, it would start. Once started, I could plug the cam sensor back in and she would run. But would give me hell starting. Luckily, you can remove the timing inspection cover and valve cover and pull cam gears and tensioner. Rotate the cams to we're they need to be and put it all back together. There isn't enough room between the crank pulley and the timing cover for the chain to come off the crank pulley.
Did the one-tooth-off problem cause a no spark problem? I just did a head gasket on my 2006 2.5L and have no spark. The cams look like they are correct, but one tooth isn't very much.
 
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