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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2008 Altima 2.5S with new starter, new transmission, new deep cell marine battery blah blah blah
(old alternator lol)

So driving down the road and all is working well and then suddenly I no longer see my dash... or computer part of dash (outside temp, gas mileage.. the information center) and then the car dies.

The normal mechanic in me instantly says Alternator took a crap.... got a tow home. Put the car on the charger, and it started gold. Took the alternator off and went to Advanced Auto Parts who tested it three times in a row (hoping it would result different after being warmed up) and it tested "Good" all three times! GRRRRR, I so would rather a bad one so I knew wtf my issue was.

So driving again today and stopped at red light (still have no information center... fuse maybe?) and when I press the accelerator the car barely moves. I turn it off and attempt to turn back on... no bueno, battery DEAD.
Have a friend bring me his battery, swap them out, car starts and drives perfect to get me home....

So now I'm thinking there MUST be a bad wire or break in the wire from the alternator to... whatever runs the car (ECM?) because it's apparent that part is NOT working and it's using the batter until it dies... but if the alternator is testing good... what? Has to be wiring right? Or is there another component I'm missing out on here?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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See my 'Alternator' thread linked to in my .sig below. Also read through the bad ground thread. Start by checking for parasitic current draw from the battery while the car is off and go from there.

It certainly sounds like a bad ground from the battery to the engine which may have damaged the alternator. Your alternator will test good because the part that's damaged just overcharges your battery while the engine is running and sucks the life out of it when it's parked.

Start with the $30 ground strap first and take the opportunity to clean and inspect the battery cable terminals for corrosion/damage. Then worry about the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you! Great information and I will go through.
Quick question.... in the beginning on this car there was a power issue created by a faulty A/C clutch freezing up.
This cause me to blow the main 240A fuse several times on the junction block for the positive terminal.
Instead of buying a new one every time it blew (three times while figuring out it was the damn A/C) I went to an audio shop and picked up a 200A breakable fuse... so if it blows I hit the switch and restart it =)

The bad... its 200A NOT 240A =( would this be a potential problem and should I remove the breaker I put in and let it do run straight to the rest of the fuses?

(My thought is without it, even though its 40A less it would destroy the rest of the fuses and really cause issues... but maybe with me not letting the additional 40A through it's causing issues...?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just ordered this:

So I'll go from the 200A to 250A (I thought it was 240A but upon checking the manual I see it's 250A)

Think shorting the system 50 potential Amps would cause the issues as well? Hopefully it'll pop less anyways, the 200A pops almost everytime I drive!
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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You should never be pulling 200A from your BATTERY while driving...this is indicative of a serious system short somewhere. Even if the car was consuming 200A of power (2.5kW)...at least 100A of that should be coming from your alternator. You cannot sustain pulling 200A from your battery when it should actually be in a 'charging' state.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So in essence they put a fuse that should never pop on the terminal... the fact that mine IS popping even though it's 50A less doesn't mean a thing aside from a bad ground... going to a bigger fuse won't result in a fix... I'm still going to have my issue correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
And to begin my horrible job of finding this short... start at negative terminal or positive and begin trace.... or start from alternator or my initial job... the A/C compressor?

Nevermind, getting the multimeter and starting with fuses to look for the parasitic draw like you already mentioned lol =) TY AGAIN
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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To be able to repeatedly short 200A plus and not smell like a dump on fire...it's going to be a big cable...like probably the B terminal at the alternator (a heavy gage, direct batter to alternator cable). If the insulation is melted/damaged/exposed on that, every time it swings into the engine it'll pop 200A+ no problem! Any other wire would have melted/burned off the terminal by now..so that kind of limits which wires you need to follow--basically 1/4" in diameter or more :) Don't exclude issues with the power feeds into the IPDM or the IPDM itself.

A bad ground alone would not necessarily cause this issue. Sure a surge would happen, but nothing near 200A+
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Can we step back a bit and understand exactly what was going wrong with the AC clutch and what you did to fix it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yuppers.
When the car was purchased (according to the owner, my brother in law) the dealer told him it had a bad A/C compressor.
While driving one day the belt ripped off and the car drove a bit then stopped.
Towed car home and put a new belt on and attempted to start the car. It cranked and popped the main 250A fuse on the positive terminal. Took belt off started car all was well.
Swapped out starter with brand new one (it was old and one of the leads actually snapped off), tested alternator which passed... then saw the clutch on the compressor was frozen not allowing the belt to turn blowing the fuse. Replaced A/C compressor with a new one and had system charged.

During this phase is when I put the 200A breakable fuse in place of the 250A one (because I had to replace the entire positive fuse block terminal which started getting costly lol).
Car ran great until I started getting the CVT issues and had to swap the transmission... before swap the car would intermittently pop the 200A fuse however.

Now it pops almost all the time... the dashboard doesn't have the information center showing (temperature, tire pressure, warnings, etc) it does show the brake like, check engine light, and normal dash stuff however.
A/c blows cold... radio works, nothing I can notice is not working properly...
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Ok, the starter motor cable is another 'fat cable' that absolutely needs checking. A bad or defective starter solenoid could also cause these problems. How did you correct the connector that had snapped off? Watch the routing of the alternator and starter cables...make sure they avoid anything hot or vibrating, like exhaust, engine block, drive shafts etc. I'm going to put my tech chops on the line an bet it's something to do with either one of those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
To correct... I replaced the starter lol =)
It snapped off while I was doing the first bit of testing when the fuse was blowing (which was due to the bad a/c compressor), instead of playing
around and thinking it may be a culprit to the issue at hand and future issues I simply got a new one.

I'm in FL right now and on the gulf side getting hit with tons of rain... so when things calm down I'll go outside and start removing air filter, battery box, etc to begin wire traces. But first I'll roll with the basics and check to see if there is some insane draw while the cars off... maybe I can find the issue very fast.
I will be taking your advice as well and checking the larger gauged wires, connections, etc off the alternator, starter and going to the IPDM
 
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