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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone ! So I did have 2 se-r’s junked one of them 2 years ago .. I kept one but before I junked the first one I took the blown engine out of it and had it rebuilt like new! I had a professional engine shop do the job for me…. I put wiseco pistons 96mm 8.8:1 with eagle connecting rods .. I also had the crankshaft fully balanced recommended by the engine shop … and I had the cylinder heads redone all cleaned up port & polish .. so my question is … the current engine I have in my car has 250,000k miles on it and I’m pretty sure either the oil pump went or I blew a rod either way the engine is done! I want to now put in my new rebuild engine … can I just throw it in there and call it a day? Or will I need to have it tuned to run proper? ( because of the bigger pistons) this car is my daily driver and I use it a lot … I don’t want to use the family car ..would like to get my se-r back on the road! Thanks for any help
 

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If still using the OEM intake manifold and exhaust same you are likely OK. I'd bet a million nobody ported or polished spit. I know because I used to do that work and for real, most shop attempts are laughable and I've even redone the crap work done by nationally known shops that should know better than to lie about that. In the first place nobody polishes, it often costs power; it's been dead as an idea for some 40 years. As soon as somebody mentions polishing I for one laugh to myself. It being the mark of the uninformed.

Try to not get upset, it is what it is, I didn't make the rules. And no ill will toward you intended at all. The shop may have been looking out for you, you have specialty parts there but the compression there is old lady car spec stuff. True hi-perf doesn't begin until at least 10.0, of course they could have decked the block and milled head to bring it up but the fact that you know nothing of it says no.

Bigger pistons alone if a simple slight overbore up to .060" over should have enough fuel mapping left to be OK unless you are a lead foot. They should have clearanced the walls at the Wiseco spec for the particular piston alloy used there.

You may want to bump the oil type up some, the standard 5W-30 is not really enough to do what you need there. I'd go to like 10-40 at least unless you are way up north. The bottom end will like it better and you seem to dog that pretty bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When it comes to the heads I believe u! Because they just look all cleaned up I can tell the ports have not been opened more .. the heads just look like new that’s it .. when I had the engine redone when I ordered pistons the shop said these pistons are slightly bigger so they said no worries it’s not much more then stock and they can do the job … I know I sound like I don’t know much …cuz I don’t! I will admit that! but when I talk to my cousin who does all my mechanics he keeps telling me cuz of the bigger pistons I’m gonna have to get the car tuned he saying it won’t run right! And yes this current engine in my car is all oem .I will also admit I knew the oil pump was weak and I was supposed to take better care of checking my oil cuz it burns up fast.. but I did take care of it enough to last me 250,000 miles… I just want to put the new engine in and of course upgrade the oil pump ….so what u are saying is I should be able to drop the new rebuilt engine in with no issues? And I’m not lead foot but once in awhile I like to smash on the gas and race someone light to light lol but rare
 

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You should be fine.

I bored plenty of engines back in the days of carbs and never changed a thing on them. It's only when you really start changing up the engine's breathing with like different exhaust that things need to be tuned. And you can even do slight bits to that too, most people who think they are hotrodding something aren't really doing spit any longer. Like cold air intakes or changing a muffler, in many cases you are not really changing much there. You can even make it breathe worse and think you are better.

I used to punch out AMC V-8 400 inch motors the normal .030" bigger, it figures out to 6 more cubic inches or so, not enough to worry about. What they won't tell you is that occasionally the OEM factory will round up a bunch of mistake defect blocks where somebody misfigured specs or tooling on and recover those blocks by boring them bigger to already have oversize pistons in them sometimes and they mix those in as a factory stock engine and it gets noted with an engine tag or code to let somebody know it is slightly different. It would still get the standard tuning as nothing is really different. It's a way to recover lost parts right in the factory and they all practice it, although with computer tooling it's not as common as it used to be.

Like with any other new engine you need to get it set up to crank and fire instantly with no hard effort trying to get it started, and run the first 15 minutes at 2500 rpm or so to get max oil pressure on all parts right THEN to avoid messups and then I for one change first oil and filter change in 50-100 miles to look for problems in the oil as well as getting break-in metal out of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks a lot I really appreciate you! This means a lot to me …. The rebuilt engine been sitting in my garage done and I didn’t have a reason to put it in my car yet ! And one big reason was friends of mine kept telling me I would absolutely have to tune the engine before I can start using the car as a daily driver so I didn’t want to put it in the car for that reason also…. Besides there is no tuner shop in my area and I would have to get a etune and didn’t want to go thru all that extra stuff! But thank you so much for the advice … I can now order a revup oil pump and head gaskets and timing kit … is there anything else I should do as it’s time to assemble the block? Should I buy new arp head bolts or will the old ones work? Would like to assemble it correctly and slap it in and be on my way … really thank u very much for replying
 

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If the old head bolts are TTY you need to change them. TTY bolts on the tighten spec are ones that the last tightening step is an angle rather than a measurement of foot pounds. TTY bolts are one time use only. ARP are better and reuseable.

You can overbore an engine a slight amount and the tuning really does not change, now if the cams got changed for different spec or intake or exhaust that all goes out the window. Hoping somebody completely reset all valve clearances there, they needed it if all taken apart. Add some oil to oil pump and rotate it to get it on pump parts, it will help the pump to prime much faster. Need to prelube the cams at rubbing points too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks ! I really appreciate all the help … I’m buying everything I need now I will also get arp head bolts …thanks for helping!
 
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