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Car: 2000 Altima SE, M5.

Disclaimer:I am not an auto mechanic. I wrote this procedure from an idiot's point of view. If you harm yourself or your car using this procedure, I do not take responsibilty. :bigok: This procedure took place over two days because my wife was nagging me, so pics are combo of night and day.

Cost:
1) Vatozone Duralast halfshafts (new, not refurbs) with lifetime warranty (yeah, right!): Right side was $120 after core charge and left side was $130 after core charge.
2) Valvoline 80-90W Gear Oil: $4.99 at Vatozone
3) Roll of 3 towels X2: $3.99 2-for-1 sale that day. :woot:
4) 36MM Great Neck axle nut socket: $15.00 at Vatozone. I usually buy good tools, but there are certain tools that I just don't give a crap about, and this socket was one of them. It worked fine btw.
5) Bottle of Brake Parts Cleaner X2: $6.00 at Vatozone
6) 12-pack of Bud Light bottles: $8.99 at HEB I bought a 12-pack because I wasn't sure how much work was going to be involved. :weightlift:
7) Federal Mogul driver's side axel seal: $13 at O'Reillys

Total: ~$318 with tax.

The Nissan axels were VERY expensive, so my Nissan stealership wanted $1600 to do this.

Symptoms: My driver's side brakes were smoking when I got out of the car one day. I took the wheel off and found grease had been flung all inside my wheel and inside the fender, etc. Sure enough the CV boot was cracked. I'm cheap and this car has 140K on it, so I let it go for a couple thousand miles, but the recent rains we had caused me to drive through some deep water which wound up causing some pretty bad popping in the CV joint during powered turning. It sounded like a box of rocks in the car. Anyway, I knew I had to replace the axels and I wasn't going to pay Nissan $1600 to do it on a car that is only worth about $3K. So, here we go.....

Tools:
A 20MM socket for lugnuts, a 36MM socket for axel nut, a 14MM deep-well socket for top swaybar nut, a 14MM standard socket for bottom swaybar bolt, a 10MM standard socket, a 22MM open end wrench, a 17MM open end wrench, a 12MM open end wrench, a 6-inch 3/8 extension, a pickel fork or prybar, a plastic hammer, a normal big metal hammer, a 3/8 torque wrench, a 1/2 inch torque wrench, a pair of needle-nose pliers for cot-pins, and an oil bucket. Optional tool include a 1/2 impact, a 3/8 impact, and a 3/8 air-ratchet.

Driver's side:
To begin, I drank a beer and stared at the car, thinking about how much I just wanted to trade in this worn out POS. Then I remembered I hate car payments, so I loosened the lugnuts on the driver's side wheel with a 21MM socket, then I jacked the car up and put it on jackstands, putting them on the frame.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/jackstand.jpg
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. I always forget to do that.
Take the driver's wheel off and you'll see the disc-brakes and strut assembly along with a huge 36MM nut with a cotter pin in front of it. Remove that cotter pin.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld9.jpg
Next, grab your 1/2 inch impact and 36MM socket and remove the axel nut. If you don't have an impact, I feel for you. I don't know any tricks for getting the nut off without an impact. Sorry. You can use the trick I came up with to tighten the nut, later in this procedure.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/36mmimpact.jpg
When you remove the nut, there will be a washer behind it. Remove it and don't lose it.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld7.jpg
Next, you need to free the axel splines up from the steering knuckle. They're held in there with rust and force. Use a plastic deadblow hammer to wack the end of the axel in toward the center of the car. You'll feel the axel move inward when it's free. If you're going to turn the axels in for core exchange, be sure to use the plastic hammer so you don't damage the threads. If all you have is a normal hammer, leave the axel nut on the ends of the thread and strike it with the hammer.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/driverhammer.jpg
Now there's nothing holding the axel into the steering knuckle. The steering knuckle is however being held in position by the ball joint, so you have to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball joint is located on the end of the control arm and the control arm is being held upward by the swaybar, which is mounted to the frame and your control arm. We need to detach the swaybar from the control arm to free up the pressure on the arm so we can push it downward later on. The swaybar is attached to the control arm with an endlink. There is a nut on top of the swaybar that connects it and the endlink. Loosen that 14MM nut to the top of the threads. Use the deep-well socket because the endlink is pretty long. I used a 3/8 impact to loosen this nut because I'm lazy. It only has 35lbs of torque, so you can easily loosen it with a ratchet.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stabletopnutd-1.jpg
Now that that nut is loose, the endlink will have enough play where we can remove it from the control arm. Without that nut being loose, there is too much pressure on the endlink to get it out of the control arm. You'll see what I mean. So now you need to remove the nut that mounts the endlink to the control arm. This pic is taken from the front side of the control arm.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/driverstable.jpg
When you to to loosen the nut, you'll notice that the bottom of the endlink is a balljoint which spins with the nut. You need to hold that balljoint shaft with a 17MM open end wrench. After the nut is removed, just pry the endlink out from the control arm.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stableinstalld3.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stabinstalld.jpg
Now the control arm will be free for manipulation after we detach the balljoint from the steering knuckle. The balljoint nut is located at the end of the control arm. The balljoint shaft goes upward from the control arm through the steering knuckle where it is mounted with a nut, a cottar pin, and a lot of pressure. When you look at it the way I do, it's kind of scary that this little balljoint is all that is holding your front suspension together. You'll notice that my balljoint boots are busted. My Nissan dealership did that during my clutch install, but I didn't notice it until it was too late. Live and learn. Bastards. They'll be replaced soon, but that's another day and more money. Here is the cotter pin you need to remove.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/balljointnut.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/balljointcot.jpg
You need a 22MM open end wrench to loosen the nut. Turn the wheel of the car in whichever direction you need to to get the nut loose. If you have the wheel turned the wrong way, it just swings with the force of you trying to turn the nut. Unscrew the nut to the top of the threads and leave it there.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/balljointnutd.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/balljointnut2.jpg
Now the only thing hold the control arm to the steering knuckle is pressure and rust. You need to separate the ball joint shaft from the steering knuckle. Some people use a pickel fork, which looks like a fork with 2 tongs. If you grease the boot of the balljoint and the pickel fork, you might get lucky and not damage the boot. My recommendation is that you just strike the side of the steering knuckle with a large hammer until the ball joint seperates itself from the steering knuckle. There's no big production when it comes loose. You just hear a slight pop. Remove the balljoint nut and seperate from the steering knuckle.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/balljointbreakd.jpg
This is the pic after it separated. It didn't fall all the way to the nut because the control arm still has some upward force from the bushings I guess. You have to physically push down on the control arm until it is clear of the steering knuckle and pull the steering knuckle away. This frees up the entire steering knuckly/strut assembly so that it can be swung around to remove the axel.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/ballbreakpass3.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/balljointbreakd2.jpg
Remove the dust shield inside the fender, to get it out of the way of the axel. It is held on with two 10MM bolts and two plastic philips toggle bolts. I didn't remember to do this until it was a little late, as you will see later.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/dustshieldd.jpg
The axel is loose inside the steering knuckle, but not loose from the tranny, where it is held in by a snap ring of all things. Scary, I know. The passenger side is much more reliable, but you'll see why later on. Anyway, you finally need to crawl your happy ass underneath the car. You follow the axel to where it is mounted into the tranny. You'll see that I had an axel seal leak. Another gift from my Nissan techs. They said they wouldn't repeat the fix because the output bearing of my tranny was trashed. They wanted $1100 to fix that. Anyway, continuing on....
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/driveraxelseal.jpg
To free the axel from the tranny, you need to put a prybar behind the CV joint and pry it out of the tranny. If prying doesn't work, just rap the end of the prybar with the plastic hammer. You feel the axel snap ring give and the axel will move out slightly. DO NOT pull out very far on the CV joint unless you want a face full of gear oil. Sidebar: I used a pickel fork as my prybar. This is the only good use I have found for the pickel fork.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/driveraxelrem.jpg
Now's a good time to put the oil pan underneath the tranny to catch all the gear oil that will spill out when you remove the axel.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/oilpan.jpg
With the oil pan in place underneath the drive axel and tranny, grab the steering knuckle/disc brake/strut assembly and pull it toward yourself and turn it in which ever direction allows you to get the axel splines free from the it. If the axel starts to go with the steering knuckle rap the end with the plastic hammer again to loosen it from the spindle. With one arm holding the steering in a position where the wheel would be turned all the way to the left, I was able to grab the axel with the other hand and pull it free.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelremd.jpg
You just leave the steering knuckle assembly over to one side so you can pull the axel all the way out from the tranny, now. You'll see in the photo that I didn't think to remove the dust shield and it got in the way. :eek:wned: You benefit from my stupidity.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelremd2.jpg
Now you have the heavy axel out and you will see the axel seal in the tranny.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/tranny.jpg
I replaced my seal with a Nissan seal and it leaked. I had to remove the axel again and do the job twice but I used a Federal Mogul seal. It was a much beefier seal and I recommend you get that seal instead. Federal Mogul ftw! I drank a beer at this point to let the gear oil fully drain.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/P1010129.jpg
I don't have pics of me putting in the new seal because I forgot. I just pried the old seal out with a flatblade screwdriver, being careful not to mar the inside of the tranny. I greased the outside of the seal with Vaseline and installed it with my fingers. I hurt like a bitch but I got it in there. I don't know what kind of mounting tool they use at Nissan, but I don't even see how it would be made. You'll figure it out. Here's the new and old driver's axel.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelcompd.jpg
The gear oil is drained, the new tranny seal is in and you need to install the new axel. First make sure the snap ring is there and in good shape on the new axel. Then take Vaseline and grease the inside of the tranny seal and the part of the axel that will be riding on that seal. This is pretty important. If you don't grease them, the axel will pull on the seal during installation and ruin it. No pics of me greasing the shaft. Once lubed up, install the axel back into the transmission while being careful not to hit the seal. You have to get underneath the car to do it because you have to hold the CV joint to keep it from flopping around like a limp dick. :wang: This job is much easier if you have help, but I did not. My wife doesn't do grease. Push the axel into the tranny as far as it will go. It isn't in all the way, but it will hold there until you can crawl out for the next step. I couldn't snap pics and install it at the same time, so you get post-images. This is before seating the snap ring.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld.jpg
So you have the axel inside the tranny but the snap ring is not seated.
Grab the end of the axel, straighten the CV joints out, push in on the outer CV joint, and wack the end of the axel with the plastic hammer. I felt the snap ring seat, but if you don't know what to expect you won't feel it. The joint will move inward if you don't push in on it, so if that happens just wack it a few more times for good measure. To make sure it is seated just crawl under the car and pull out on the inner part of the axel. If it pulls out of the tranny, you need to wack it a few more times. I can't stress enough how important it is to get it seated.
Next, you need to put the other end of the new axel into the steering knuckle assembly. I turned the steering knuckle all the way left and put it on my hip, then grabbed the CV shaft with my other hand and crammed it home, opposite of removal.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld3.jpg
It slides in when the splines are lined up. Straighten the steering knuckle by turning it. You now want to mate the steering knuckle back on to the ball joint. With the steering knuckle straight, I reached underneath it with both hands grabbing the control arm and the disc brake resting on both forearms. I pried down on the control arm and manipulated the steering knuckle back on to the balljoint shaft. The control arm will hold the steering knuckle up, so you can let go once it is mated with the balljoint. I couldn't take pics while doing this. Sorry.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld4.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld5.jpg
Install the 22MM nut back on the balljoint and tighten it down. The book says 52 to 64 ft-lbs, but I don't know how you get that torque reading since you can only get an end-wrench on the bolt. You can't get a socket on it. I just tightened the shit out of it. Remember to reinstall the cotter pin. That little piece of metal could save your life.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld6.jpg
Your axel is in, your balljoint nut is tight, so now you need to reattach the swaybar endlink to the control arm.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stabinstalld.jpg
Put the nut on and hold the endlink with the 17MM wrench and tighten the nut to 35 ft-lbs.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stableinstalld2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stableinstalld3.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stableinstalld4.jpg
Tighten the swaybar-to-endlink nut to 15 ft-lbs.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stableinstalld5.jpg
The swaybar is set, so you just need to put the axel washer, nut, and cotter pin back on.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld7.jpg
I ran the nut back on with my heavy-duty impact. The book says to tighten the 36MM nut to 174-230 ft-lbs. I don't know why they give you a range to choose from. :sad: My impact goes clear up to 220lbs, so I figured I was okay, but I wanted to be sure. I got out my big torque wrench are tried to tighten the nut. You guessed it: the damn axel spins freely. With no urge to ruin anything, I was going to call it good, but it nagged at me, so I came up with this contraption.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld8.jpg
I put two lug nuts on so I wouldn't mess up the stud threads. I put a 3/8 extension in the end of a jack handle the wedged it between the two wheel studs. When I turned the axel nut, the jack handle wedged against the garage floor and I was able to get the 220 ft-lbs of torque. Use whichever method you come up with. :banana:
Don't forget to put the cotter pin back in. I recommend using a new one but I forgot to buy one. When I had to do this job again for the leaky seal, I installed a new one.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld9.jpg
Congratulations, you're driver's side axel is installed.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstalld5.jpg
I drank a beer at this point to prepare for the passenger side axel. It is mostly the same, but there is some differences we'll go over here.

Passenger side:

Use the pics from above for reference for the stuff that is the same.
Remove the 21MM lugnuts and remove the passenger side wheel. Staring at you is the same thing from the driver's side: the disc brake/steering knuckle/strut assembly with the big 36MM axel nut in the middle. Remove the passenger side dust shield by removing the two 10MM bolts and the two philips plastic toggle bolts. Remove the cotter pin on the axel, the 36MM nut, and the washer. Wack the end of the axel with the plastic hammer as stated for the driver's side, to loosen the axel splines from the wheel bearing. Loosen the top swaybar endlink nut to the top of the threads, remove the nut that mounts the swaybar to the control arm. Remember you have to hold the endlink shaft with the 17MM wrench while loosening the mounting nut.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stablenut.jpg
Detach the endlink from the control arm. Take out the balljoint mounting nut cotter pin, then loosen the balljoint nut with a 22MM wrench to the top of the threads. Wack the steering knuckle with a hammer until the balljoint pops loose from the steering knuckle.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/balljointbreakd.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/ballbreakpass3.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/ballbreakpass4.jpg
Removed the balljoint nut and pry down on the control arm until the steering knuckle can be pulled free from the balljoint. At this point, go ahead and free the end of the axel from the steering knuckle the same way that you did on the driver's side: turn the spindle all the way to the right, support it with your hip and left arm, then grab the outer CV joint and pull it out with your right hand. Leave the steering knuckle out of the way so you can get the axel out in a minute.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelrempass.jpg
Here is where it gets a little different. The passenger side axel is supported by a bearing retainer, which is next to the oil pan and exhaust pipe flex joint. This retainer holds/supports the axel and therefore eliminates the need for that crappy snap ring that is on the driver's side axel. The CV joint is on the passenger side of the retainer. From the retainer to the tranny is a straight piece of axel that goes into the tranny. There is three 12mm bolts holding the axels CV joint to the retainer. You need to remove these with a 12MM wrench because you can't get a ratchet on one of the bolts. One of them is a bear to get to, but I have the ratcheting GearWrench, so I was in good shape. If you have the normal primitive end wrench, it's just going to take you a while during reinstall.
Sorry for the fuzzy pics:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelsupportp2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelsupportp.jpg
At this point, your axel is loose. While you're lying on your back underneath the axel, carefully remove the inner part of the axel from the transmission, being sure not to damage the seal with the axel splines if you are not going to replace it. This is what you will see from the passenger's side through to the tranny, after the axel is removed.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelsupportp3.jpg
Here is an axel comparo:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelcompp.jpg
Drink a beer.

I recently had a clutch put in by Nissan, so my passenger side axel seal was pretty new and not leaking. To install a new seal, I imagine you would have to remove the bracket for the front and rear motor/tranny mounts and possibly the exhaust because they are in the way. My seal wasn't leaking, and I knew I would find a broken motor/tranny mount if I removed them, so I opted to take my chances with the old seal. Luckily for me it did not leak, but I can't guarantee you will have the same luck. If you have an old seal, you need to replace it, but this procedure does not include that. Sorry for my laziness. :love:

Time for installation of new axel. Once again, grease the axel seal with Vaseline and grease the part of the axel that will be touching the axel seal with Vaseline. Really goop it on there because the passenger side seal is a bitch to replace as stated above. Go ahead and put tranny-side of the axel a little ways through the bearing retainer while you are outside the car. Don't go all the way to the tranny. Just leave it there and try and prop it up until you can get underneath the car and the axel. This part would be easier with help, but if you don't have any just prop the axel there and crawl under it. Now that you are under it, you can manipulate the tranny-side spline of the axel carefully into the transmission, being sure not to damage the seal. The CV part of the axel should slide right into the bearing retainer. Now go ahead and reinstall the three 12MM bolts and torque them to 35 ft-lbs. Of course you can only torque 2 of them if you don't have a swivel-headed torque wrench like I do, but just tighten the one you can't get to as best you can with a wrench.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstallp2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstallp3.jpg
Success on the installation of the tranny-side of the axel.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstallp.jpg
Now you have to install the outer CV joint back into the steering knuckle.
You should be good at it by now.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstallp4.jpg
Straighten the spindle out and pry down on the control arm to get the steering knuckle mounted back on to the balljoint.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstallp5.jpg
Install the 22MM balljoint nut and torque to 70 ft-lbs, or just plain tight like I did.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstallp6.jpg
Don't forget to install the new cotter pin for the balljoint nut.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstallp7.jpg
Reattach the swaybar endlink to the control arm and torque the nut to 35 ft-lbs while holding the link with a 17MM wrench.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stableinstallp.jpg
Tighten the swaybar-to-endlink nut to 15 ft-lbs.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/stableinstallp2.jpg
Reinstall the axel washer and 36MM nut. Torque it to 174-230 ft-lbs as stated for the driver's side. Use whichever method you can come up with or use my method. Don't forget your cotter pin.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/axelinstallp8.jpg
Congratulations! You just installed the passenger side axel.
Drink a beer.

Now, you just have to fill the tranny with 80-90W gear oil of your choice.

You first need to remove the tranny fill plug. It is on the front of the tranny, right behind the radiator fans on the driver's side. Stick a 1/2 inch ratchet or prybar in there, without a socket on the end and remove it.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/trannyfill1.jpg

To get the gear oil from the container to the tranny, I used a pump that is used for boat lower units. It was 4 bucks at Walmart. I've had it for years. If you don't have one, a the gear lube bottle will fit in between the radiator fans and the tranny. It can get messy though.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/trannyfill2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y10/sstupid/trannyfill3.jpg
You are supposed to fill it until some gear oil starts coming out of the fill hole. Reinstall the fill hole plug. Reinstall the dust shields on both sides and reinstall the wheels. Jack up the car, remove the jackstands, lower the car and go for a short drive, just long enough to really warm up the gear oil. Go back home a wait a half an hour or so, then pray and look under your car for leaks. If you don't see any leaks, drink a beer. If you see a leak, drink 2 beers and start over. :wall:

If you see anything that needs to be corrected, let me know.
 

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shift_for life
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440 Posts
very nice.... needs to be faq'ed....
 

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///M Time!
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3,872 Posts
Mods FAQ this.
 

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Registered
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im in the middle of doing this right now and i agree this should be moved to FAQ. one recommendation i have though is to add "IMG" tags around all of the links to get them to load in the thread. just my preference... i hate clicking and opening all of them separately.
 

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Registered
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Discussion Starter #6
im in the middle of doing this right now and i agree this should be moved to FAQ. one recommendation i have though is to add "IMG" tags around all of the links to get them to load in the thread. just my preference... i hate clicking and opening all of them separately.
You aren't allowed to have img tags on more than 10 pics in one thread.
 

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white on rice
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1,565 Posts
Nice writeup!!!
 

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nice
 

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05 STi
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haha, vatozone, i like that lol.
 

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98 Altima GLE auto
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128 Posts
Alright, I went to do my driver's side half shaft today with the instructions in hand...

Everything was going great until I got to the ball joint...

The sway bar endlink snapped and broke on me when I was trying to get the nut off the bottom of the link! I PB blasted it, let it sit, then finally snuck a long socket extension in there and used my breaker bar and it snapped. oh well, I will pick up a new one tomorrow. I then used a vice grip on the broken part, contunued on, and the nut finally loosened up and came off.

Then to the ball joint... I took off the cotter pin from the bolt on the ball joint, loosened the 22mm nut and backed it up flush with the top of the bolt, but I could not get the control arm to lower. It seems like the hole on the knuckle where the ball joint bolt goes thru is seized or something. I PB blasted that, beat the hell out of the side of the coltrol arm with a hammer trying to lower it, beat on the hub, used a pry bar between the knuckle and the control arm, nothing worked.

I guess the other option is to loosen the camber bolts at the bottom of the strut and then try to lower the control arm that way to give me that one or two extra centimeters of clearance I need to get the damn axle out of the hub... Would I need to take off the steering rack connection to do that? I guess I could try the pickle fork, eh? Any other suggestions?
 

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Snow Kills My Car
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Then to the ball joint... I took off the cotter pin from the bolt on the ball joint, loosened the 22mm nut and backed it up flush with the top of the bolt, but I could not get the control arm to lower. It seems like the hole on the knuckle where the ball joint bolt goes thru is seized or something. I PB blasted that, beat the hell out of the side of the coltrol arm with a hammer trying to lower it, beat on the hub, used a pry bar between the knuckle and the control arm, nothing worked.

I guess the other option is to loosen the camber bolts at the bottom of the strut and then try to lower the control arm that way to give me that one or two extra centimeters of clearance I need to get the damn axle out of the hub... Would I need to take off the steering rack connection to do that? I guess I could try the pickle fork, eh? Any other suggestions?
i actually just did mine earlier this week, i used a pickle fork and it loosened pretty easy with a few whacks of a hammer. You could also try hitting the steering knuckle with a hammer but be careful that is the only thing you hit and not the threads or control arm or anything else nearby.
 

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98 Altima GLE auto
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128 Posts
I decided to go after the camber bolts. I scored/scratched a small line along the strut relative to the camebr bolt so I could re-tighten them in the same place. After I got them out I wasnt quite sure they were true camber bolts...

I snapped-off two 1/2 to 3/8 drive adaptors with my breaker bar (only had 3/8 drive 17mm socket) then finally went out and got a 1/2 drive socket and was able to get it loose. After that, planty of wiggle room to get the axle out.

Put on the new sway bar end link too (broke the other).

I pushed the end into the trans hard, straightened it out, and then beat on the other end with my rubber mallet, trying to listen for the snap ring to catch but wasnt sure...

Getting late so I bagged the rest and will finish tomorrow.
 

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Quick question, everyone around here seems clueless about the axle seal. I went by autozone and he can't even pull it up, says it's NA. O'Reilly said they showed 2 seals, but didn't know which side was which.

The passenger and driver side axle seals are identical correct?

Thanks guys

Jeremy
 

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98 Altima GLE auto
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128 Posts
The seals surprisingly looked good on my car so I did not replace them.


tranny seal:


napa here:
NAPAONLINE®

I got my half shaft from pep boys for almost double what it would have been from napa, but they had it when i needed it, so i just got it.
 

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hey guys! new here and i thought i'd add my two cents and see what you think!

i am also replacing both drivers side and passenger side cv driveshafts..

the driver side pulled out without hassle.. maybe ten minutes to take the whole drivers side wheel, disk, supports and everything. worked great!

:banghead:however the passenger side is NOT at all working for me.. i pulled the three bearings of the inner boot out of the housing and now i cannot dislodge the joint fromt he tranny..



it is stuck in the support! i took out the three screws and bolts and for some reason still cannot (after God knows how many beatings with a hammer) to dislodge it.. pulling till my arms are sore and still no luck..



please help.. car is on blocks and things are not looking good..:banghead::banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Did you get it out? I can't imagine what would be holding it in there that tightly.

You could probably just unbolt the retaining block from the engine block and see if it all comes out. If not, it would mean the splines are somehow stuck in the differential.
 
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