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MissJeriBlue
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i have an 05 3.5l v6 and it has been shutting down while im driving. the dash lights come on and rpms go down so it is really shutting down, but will return as quickly as it went. i replaced the fusible link block and checked all fuses. i checked for loose wires as well. only thing i can think of is a headlight problem ive had for years. i can only run my brights after i changed to hid, then zenon, then replaced the entire lens a couple years ago? im not sure what to check now.. anyone have any ideas?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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5,737 Posts
Negative battery cables were chronic issues on your year...check the integrity of the lower portion...ie between the battery tray, the chassis bolt and the transmission tab.
 

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MissJeriBlue
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Agreed. Follow the ground connection from the battery to the fenderwell, then from there to the transmission case.
I have seen them rot off either or even both places
i checked it out and yes, my negative cable was toast. i replaced it and all was good...for a minute. now, it only shuts down when im on the freeway. i can drive at lower speeds and just the brake and battery lights come on. it doesnt shut off though.

there is no rhyme or reason as to when the lights come on. totally random. i did have the alternator replaced a few months ago. could it have to do with that? maybe the ecm needed a reset?

possibly, since the only differences i see when it dies, is the abs light comes on. i know when that, and the other 2 dash lights come on, its gonna die. otherwise, she will stay running. would this shit happen if i need to replace brakes?

im totally randomly guessing. ugh. any ideas are welcome!
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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5,737 Posts
If I read between the tea leaves..would I be correct in assuming that 'shuts down' and 'dies' means you lose power, but the engine doesn't actually stop turning? If so this is a classic case of an alternator overcharging the battery to 16V+ causing the ECM to put everything into limp mode. Read my 'Alternator' thread for more detail and to see if your symptoms are the same...including...if you turn on the fan to full and engage other high power items like the rear defog, head lights (BTW high voltage will kill your aftermarket ballasts), seat heaters etc if you can prevent that brake/battery lights coming on. Note, I think if your engine stalls, those lights come on anyways...meaning the engine has already stalled by the time those lights are on...you can verify, by setting the car to KOEO (key on, engine off...ie igntion on but not running...after 30s...only those two lights should remain on).
 

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2 Posts
My g35 was doing that would come to a stop and car would die. Would start right back up also check light never came on for a thousand times of this happening ended up being camshaft sensors. Just my thoughts though
 

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I had this issue some months ago. I got same suggestions on a forum I searched. The suggestion from SoapMyster was exactly what I got and found the mess and fixed it.
 

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MissJeriBlue
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
it totally makes sense, now. earlier tonight, i basically coasted home with no power (engine running) and not sure how, but made it to my driveway having no lights, nothing. even lost my hazards.

after reading thru everything i could find, it seems totally feasible. it mustve been happening for a while now, because i went thru 3 sets of ballasts after changing over to hid, then xenon, and eventually just putting back the regular lamps, but only being able to run them on bright mode.

had someone else change out my alternator while i was at work and seems like thats when the troubles started. are there 2 different choices in the voltages on those? ive wondered more than once if he opted for the cheaper version, even though i gave more than enough and assumed he would get the better one. thats what i get for letting someone else near my car. ugh

i cant thank you enough for helping me out with this. it just seemed so random, it had me stumped.

oh, one more...will i need to take the ecm to a dealership to be reset after i change out the alternator this time?
 

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Just 1 more thought on this. If you find your problem still exists, check to make sure no recall is out or one that hasn't been addressed. Had a 2002 2.5 Altima that did this. Spent some money I didn't need too. Recall on something with computer codes and still had to shell out $200 to fix something (can't remember exactly what it was)unrelated but necessary so the recall could be accomplished. In the end, it was finally fixed and never had the problem again. Just saying, make sure all recalls are taken care of, could save you a lot of money and headaches.
 

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MissJeriBlue
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Just 1 more thought on this. If you find your problem still exists, check to make sure no recall is out or one that hasn't been addressed. Had a 2002 2.5 Altima that did this. Spent some money I didn't need too. Recall on something with computer codes and still had to shell out $200 to fix something (can't remember exactly what it was)unrelated but necessary so the recall could be accomplished. In the end, it was finally fixed and never had the problem again. Just saying, make sure all recalls are taken care of, could save you a lot of money and headaches.
thanks! ill check it out
 
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