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Since "no one knows"...

6K views 32 replies 10 participants last post by  Kb1995 
#1 ·
Seems like no one knows a thing about nissan i guess. 11' altima 2.5 no engine light car "shifts" into 2 wont go into 3 4 5 or 6 goes to 2 and rpms go up as the speed goes up. Someone has had to have this problem before and knows a solution. Im not paying some guy 150 at nissan to tell me i need a transmission. Just because i make good money doesnt mean I'm going to hand it away. Now if I get a new entire valve body. Does the whole tcl have to be replaced or reprogrammed or what?
 
#6 ·
I have the same problem. Slip Indicator light randomly goes on for no apparent reason. I have read all the forums; Brake, Check BCM 10 am fuse. Coolant and power steering fluid must be full. Battery black cable was be removed; clean and reattach. Tire sensors must be checked. Brake pad etcetera must be checked.
The Nissan dealer never heard of this problem. Never ????
I had diagnostics done and there is supposedly no service code for a random slip indicator light.
Service code PC 101 goes on.
I am now about to upgrade the BCM software at the Nissan dealer.
After that ??? who knows. Is there someone in Nissan ???
 
#7 ·
Slip means that you have a rotational discrepancy in one of the wheels...it can be ABS sensor/wiring related, it can be differential tire wear/pressure (like one new tire/3 old or one with low pressure), and it can be partially seized brakes related (and probably more things that didn't come off the top of my head).

As your brake pads wear down, the fluid level drops in the reservoir (as there is more in the caliper piston cylinders now)...usually this causes BRAKE/ABS to come on though...but worth checking/topping off just the same.
 
#8 ·
Slip means that you have a rotational discrepancy in one of the wheels...it can be ABS sensor/wiring related, it can be differential tire wear/pressure (like one new tire/3 old or one with low pressure), and it can be partially seized brakes related (and probably more things that didn't come off the top of my head).

As your brake pads wear down, the fluid level drops in the reservoir (as there is more in the caliper piston cylinders now)...usually this causes BRAKE/ABS to come on though...but worth checking/topping off just the same.
RESPONSE
I had one tire with a slow leak and had it fixed yesterday. I can only hope this is the problem (I doubt it though).
I am also taking the 12 Altima in for upgraded BCM software next week. There is a service bulletin called "MIL ON WITH DTC PO 101" on this software update that the Nissan dealer brought to my attention. $ 119.

Nissan states they never heard of this problem. I actually think they never could fix this problem…………….
 
#9 ·
RESPONSE

I am also taking the 12 Altima in for upgraded BCM software next week. There is a service bulletin called "MIL ON WITH DTC PO 101" on this software update that the Nissan dealer brought to my attention. $ 119.
Fu%% Nissan! I would not do this fix. If you read on it...a lot of people have had this flash done with no success. I discussed with my dealer and they seemed clueless to the known Issue-TSB. The code is a false code. It is a programming issue. My light has been coming on for 2 years. No drive-ability issues, MPG differences....NOTHING. Light comes on, I shut off. Sometimes 100, sometimes 300, 1000 up to 5000 miles between light resurfacing
 
#11 ·
Fu%% Nissan! I would not do this fix. If you read on it...a lot of people have had this flash done with no success. I discussed with my dealer and they seemed clueless to the known Issue-TSB. The code is a false code. It is a programming issue. My light has been coming on for 2 years. No drive-ability issues, MPG differences....NOTHING. Light comes on, I shut off. Sometimes 100, sometimes 300, 1000 up to 5000 miles between light resurfacing
RESPONSE
Yes exactly the same with me. Check Service engine light has been on for about 5 months though but no problems except randomly the slip indicator light periodically comes on.
I pull over. Shut off and turn back on.
Sometimes I have to turn it "on" twice but seldom. Happens very randomly. Sometimes twice a week; sometimes twice a month.
Does your "check engine soon" light stay on ?
 
#18 ·
I had the slip indicator light go on again yesterday for no reason.
I have tried pretty much everything. Now I am going back to Nissan dealer for BCM software and hoping the slip indicator light comes on so they can try to diagnostic while the car is there. The Service Engine light is a constant.
Tires we check this week. Fluids OK. Battery checked.
I am writing to Nissan directly this weekend since there dealer has never hears of a random slip indicator light going on.

Any other suggestions before I write Nissan USA.
 
#22 ·
Ah i forgot to add as i was driving this during the summertime months when the car would do this it wouls only "shift" up to 4th gear nothing after changed the rpm range at all. If I let it sit for a hour or 2 and it cooled down it would drive fine until it got hot again then it would act up. So I changed the stepper motor. Tthat didnt change nothing. Prior to changing it i got the code for a bad shift solenoid b and the stepper motor. Regardless to say now its doing the same thing but not going past 2. It shifts one then two and then as i go faster the rps just rise and no pulley variation change. This is poorly worded but worded the best i can explain. I love this car and want to keep it.
 
#23 ·
U1000 is typically related to CAN BUS errors...cause by chewed wires, corroded connectors, bad grounds etc. It's basicallyt a 'Something is Wrong' code...there is no pinpointing, you just have to work through the LAN section of the FSM and figure out where the 'wires are getting crossed'....
 
#25 · (Edited)
@Kball1995 : These are just guesses. The valve body could be gunked up. And if it is gunked up with metal shavings, then you could have something failing in the transmission.

Also, if it is heating up fast, it could be old fluid. Have you tried flushing the fluid and replacing yet? If it hasn't been replaced or hasn't been replaced in a long time, I'd recommend flushing all the old out rather than just draining and filling (which will mix a handful of quarts of old with the new).

Old fluid can lose its ability to cool and lubricate. The transmission slipping or not having the proper pressures due to fluid leaking through damaged seals or the pump failing could also cause it to heat up more than normal.

Do you have any type of transmission cooler on it?

I ended up trying multiple valve bodies and extra cooling, but have now reached the point where I'm going to have the CVT rebuilt. I had problems with at least one of the replacement valve bodies, but I'm not getting enough pressure on the primary pulley now and it is starting to throw other speed sensor codes that I believe aren't truly what is wrong. I think too much heat did too much damage and the valve body route wasn't enough for me.

Replacing just the valve body could be enough for you, but only one way to find out. Definitely flush the fluid and clean the magnets in the transmission pan before you put a new valve body on it, so you don't contaminate the new one.

If I had to make a wild guess, it would be that old fluid got too hot and cooked some things. If it drives better when the temps are cooler, then it might not be too late and they are just failing due to extreme temperatures. You could replace the fluid and it could drive better. If the damage is permanent and severe enough, then you might get by with replacing the valve body and still drive it, assuming most of the problems are in the valve body parts. If it still wants to heat up too much, after doing both those things, then you could try adding an external cooler, but that's not going to buy you much. At that point, most likely you'll need to have the CVT replaced. Again, these are just guesses.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Also, it is theoretically possible that some of those codes are old, from when someone was unplugging things while the car was running. I believe I had that code after a transmission shop tried that. If you can clear them, then you'll see what is really happening now vs what may have happened in the past.

Post what codes come back after you clear the old ones, and we can made some educated guesses.
 
#27 ·
Ive replaced the fluid and the old fluid was nasty. Both trans pan magnets wete so caked and covered in metal fibers it was unreal. Im starting to think that i may need a new trans. By chance do you know what year transmission models and yeara will fit into my altima? And what needs to be purchased with a used trans.. Tcm? Anything in specific? And a reprogram to?
 
#28 ·
You would have to find which transmission you have and then search on that and it will show you which other cars are compatible. As long as the TCM is okay, you should be able to reuse it. I am not sure about reprogramming. I haven't looked into that.

Metal shavings obviously mean something is wearing down. Some amount is to be expected. My magnets were pretty caked too.
 
#30 ·
I want to share a little story about overheating CVT fluid.

I came across a Lancer that would come up with an overhrating CVT code that would stick the engine on limp mode after driving for about an hour. CVT was flushed, new fluid, etc. Same.

Just so happens the Lancer was in an accident, and it was missing the CVT fluid cooler duct. Duct was purchased, and no more over heating. And we all know what happens if the radiator doesn’t have its duct.
 
#32 ·
That's pretty funny. I tend to remove all ducting from any car I have if it is underneath the car to be torn off by high curbs and such. The cars cool better not worse.

Some specific items though are out of the airstream under a car and if a duct is then missing, I could see how it causes trouble. I know some brands need specialized one off ducting to alternators that missing it will fry the alts in a month. They are located between back of motor and firewall and in a deadzone of non-moving air with the exhaust pipe right there to heat things up.
 
#33 ·
See now that ive changed the stepper motor and cvt fluid and filter. Regardless if hot or cold it will not move past 2nd it will just continue to rise in rpms. Everything went together as it should. Now before ive torn i to it I could drive for maybe a hour or so and it wouldnt move past 4th and it would whine and stink. Thats what caused me to tear into it. But maybe it was prolonged to long and maybe it had fried the cvt?
 
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