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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Nissan Altima 2.5----thought I would do a routine spark plug change and everthing was going along fine until I got to a stubborn plug and gave it just a bit to much, next thing I heard was ****CRACK****.....was thinking along the lines of screw extractor/easy out but not sure if thats the best thing to do as I still have some of the white porcelain material down in the hole.....any suggestions greatly appreciated.
 

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That piece may be simply loose in the threads once the interference part has broken off like it looks like there.

At least you BETTER HOPE it is.....................if ceramic chips have fallen loose into cylinder due to breakage you may have a real bad day coming there.

Eze-out or tap extractor there and you make it even worse..........every fix on things like that is on pins and needles while doing it and every fix requires a different way to do it without further damage. Can't even say what I would do but I would come up with something. First step is to establish if the remainder is loose to be spun out easily. Patience there may well save you thousands, you cannot afford to bugger up the threads there.
 

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Never mind.

Went back and looked at plug pic closer and it appears the interference lip the plug seals by is wedged in tight like plug is installed. Compare it to a new plug. As long as that entire lip with either the gasket or taper seal angle is there and tight you have to pretty much disassemble the motor to get it out, any other way trying to keep engine together will likely ruin the head.

I suspect you were WAAAAAYY overtightening plugs to do that.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Least path of resistance might be to just replace the head itself, either new or used, and the requisite gaskets. Probably the same amount of effort, but with a guaranteed end result...ie one that will work.
 

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Never had a plug break like that. Could be a fault in the manufacturing also. I would not be surprised.
If you can access the hole I would try a tight fitting torx bit. Just tap it tight into the plug and see if it budges.
Anything else will likely make it tighter in the hole.
And using the ground tab for leverage will likely break it off and cause more issues.
If you get the plug out I recommend cranking the engine over a few times before installing a new plug to try to push out any debris.
Good luck to you
 

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NOT EVEN.

The torx will swedge out the thread body to tighten up in the hole or it is not tight at all. Then you are tight at the top AND the threads to be 100% solid locked there. And knocking it in pulverizes the rest of the porcelain still in there (LOOK at the pic!!!) to drop into the cylinder. And cranking the engine???? Somebody apparently has no clue as to what deck clearance is or how brittle cast pistons are at the ring lands to crack at even the hint of that. The porcelain is harder and the sharp edges will make it bite in to stick in the part rather than move, like hammering a nail into a block of lead. Then depending on the intake manifold design the pieces cross migrate through intake backflow to hit other undamaged cylinders and more torn up then.

With head off, the broken part is removable, at least to somebody with a brain. No insult pointed at anybody but I've seen enough in life to throw that in there, as it is what it is. Most situations like this end in further disaster, I saw it at the garage and when I was in parts. A LOT, the 'repairs' almost always made things worse.
 

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I would recommend using the spark plug remover to try to get it out, or better yet taking it to a mechanic so that the pieces from the spark plug do not fall down into the engine itself. Also I would take it to someone just in case your threading is stripped and you need a helicoil kit inserted. I had all 4 of my spark plugs changed in June after my 2nd cylinder misfired due to the threading breaking and the spark plug literally falling out; they had to use the helicoil in order to hold that particular plug in place thereafter, so I do have some experience with this issue!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
any good information on here about getting the car (2005 Nissan Altima 2.5) into top dead center? Ive run a search without much luck....any help would be appreciated greatly....
 

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On 4 cylinder engines, the two middle pistons run up and down as a pair, and the two outer pistons run up and down as a pair. Knowing that, you can get the piston to TDC by watching it's paired cylinder.
 

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TDC (for cam timing) is checked on cylinder 1. I thought you were trying to find TDC on the cylinder with the busted plug...which might be # 1? Don't know.

At any rate, those cam sprockets are not lined up for TDC on cyl 1.

Cylinder 1 is the cylinder closest to the pulleys. To find TDC on it, put a long screw driver down the plug hole and turn the crank pulley by hand until the screw driver peaks.

This will give you TDC, but it could be on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. For cam timing purposes, you need to find TDC on cylinder 1 on the compression stroke.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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are these pictures of any help to see if Im in the right place for top dead center?

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Yes, the left picture shows on the far left of the left gear that the first link is 'red' coloured. Normally that will line up with a marker in the casting when it's at TDC. Marking location will be in your FSM for your year/engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, the left picture shows on the far left of the left gear that the first link is 'red' coloured. Normally that will line up with a marker in the casting when it's at TDC. Marking location will be in your FSM for your year/engine.

sorry, what is FSM.....the year of my car is 2005 and I have 2.5 QR25DE engine I believe it is known as
 

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You are a brave soul removing cylinder heads without a shop manual! Here, have a look at page EM-49. It's the '06 manual, but will be the same as the '05...or get the '05 from the 'other Nissan Inthusiast Club Online' site
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks for sharing that with me, I think I need to do some cleaning around that crankshaft pulley because I can see the timing indicator pin, but I can't really see any of the markings down there at all, I had a pretty sizeable oil leak before i replaced valve cover gasket about 18 months ago so I need to get in there and give it a good cleaning so I can try to find those markings,,,Ive mostly been relying on youtube videos and my Haynes manual up to this point
 

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Fsm?

sorry, what is FSM.....the year of my car is 2005 and I have 2.5 QR25DE engine I believe it is known as
Simply put FSM= FactoryServiceManual...:wink
 

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OK I am nearly confused here...

The thread started off talking about extracting a broken spark plug.... When did it switch over to changing a leaking head gasket?

Seems this thread has taken on a whole new route with several detours!

I think the smart thing to do is follow the advice given to remove the head, make a final attempt to remove the damaged/broken plug, then if that fails, find a good used head and put it back together and put some Anti-Sieze on the threads of the new plugs. Don't need a lot - just a THIN coating will help.

Trying to remove a broken plug has been done using a vacuum (shop vac device) but I wouldn't risk it, not on an engine with the tight tolerances of a modern 4 cylinder with aluminum pistons and aluminum head!

Save yourself the trouble and worries and get a good head from a reliable source... My 2 cents!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
the spark plug is still broke off in the #3 cylinder. I want the head off because Im hoping to replace it but prior to my spark plug incident I was putting a gallon of antifreeze in my car every 6 weeks or so
 
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