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White smoke?

the spark plug is still broke off in the [URL=https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=3]#3 [/URL] cylinder. I want the head off because Im hoping to replace it but prior to my spark plug incident I was putting a gallon of antifreeze in my car every 6 weeks or so
If the head was leaking coolant into a combustion chamber you would have been seeing white exhaust smoke (at least that is what used to happen in the old days!), perhaps #3 cylinder is where the leak was occuring? If so the piston will be be discolored?

At this point, the head removal is a no brainer!
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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The broken part of that plug could be extracted without pulling the head.
But the reason it broke is probably because of the amount of coolant burning/leaking into cyl 3...so while I agree you could *likely* clear all the debris...he has compelling reasons to remove, plane, and re-install the head (it's already leaking significantly). He needs to know if it's just the gasket, or if the head itself is cracked.
 

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The lower part of plug was still under torque in the head, and heavily overtorqued, why it happened. The steel body broke ABOVE the thread beginning, not right at them. While possible in and of total use of the word the skills of the person doing it likely were not enough. You or I might well have been able to do it. I've done harder than that before.

I would drill just deep enough to free the torque set and then remove the remains and the gasket, then thread out the hopefully released center section of thread. Left hand drill bit might pop it right out.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
they werent over torqued when I installed them, I use a small torque wrench and tighten to 16-18 ft lbs, the other 3 came out no problems
 

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You may be in the specified torque range but I don't think I've ever torqued a plug that high in my life. Aluminum head just doesn't need it. I hit the gasket (washer) and 1/2 to 3/4 turn more and done. The gasket is still compressing when I stop but most of it has happened.

If you still had the bad plug, looking at it end on might show why it broke, the shell could be formed out of center or other to crack easy on one side.
 

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'I was putting a gallon of antifreeze in my car every 6 weeks or so'

That could easily be an external leak out of a hose or other, small enough and located right to quickly dry up when leaked. With 9 hoses, my Fords are famous for it.

If running through the engine at least one plug should show different from the others.

Maybe still no reason to yank head? I'd be crawling up under the engine to look for antifreeze leak stains.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Finally to the point of removing the cylinder head bolts. They look to be 10mm hex type. What would be the best tool to remove them with? The 10mm hex type socket isnt doing very good and on the verge of rounding out the bolt. Would it be better to use a 12 point or a torx type? Im going to get my center punch and give it a few taps on the head to see if that helps any....I failed to mention I have tried using both a 3/8 and 1/2 inch breaker bars. The bolts are really in there good. Any tips or advice appreciated as usual as a slowly inch my way through this project.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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I've seen them two ways...

Standard hex/allen key


And the funky, screw the home mechanic up

which requires this sort of socket
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have the type of the first picture you labelled standard hex/allen key. I cleaned out the dirt and grime inside of the head bolt but my 10mm hex socket is started to round it off. This is the hex socket Im trying to use but like I said, it is starting to round out the head bolts

[/URL][/IMG]
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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If you are just rounding with standard tools and brute force, I'd suggest getting an impact setup (bit plus driver), even if it's just an electric one. Apply some heat, br-r-r-r-t they should come right out. Worst case you might be able to use a bolt extractor, but that could generate some ugly metal particles in your engine.
 

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The second type of bolt head is a reverse torx...........

The allen type if a cheap tool WILL round out the heads of bolts. Some are not the exact ID size and are not heat treated for spit and are bolt wreckers to the max. On head bolts one should have picked the most expensive tip he could get to avoid that and then the skills of the operator figure in there bigtime too, if you let the breaker bar extension get out of perfect perpendicular to the bolt hole you can kiss that bolt goodbye, it is ruined.
 

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completely agree with above.
The quality of the tool is key.
Especially when it is a hex or a torx.
If you find it starts to strip immediately stop using it and ensure you have a very good quality one.
Pay more now or later
 

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Torx is even worse, there are certain sizes that are so close to each other that the smaller ones seem to fit the head of bolt until you twist it and corners instantly come off and then you are screwed. I always try the next bigger size before I exert force to be sure of the right one.
 

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not to mention they snap out of nowhere
International trucks use T55 torx bolts to hold the front bumper on, they come loose and seize in place. They require so much torque to remove or tighten them that the head of the socket just shatters. I have broken many. Good ones too
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Sorry so many month have went by since I have replied but I had a heart attack in the beginning of April and it was kind of touch and go for a few months. Health Issues aside, I finally got my head bolts(including the stripped ones out) but I have a question.....do the ones I pointed out in the picture with the red arrows need to be removed also? Thanks for any help you guys can offer.....im back to tinkering with this thing since Im supposed to be taking it easy and I find it relaxing working on this car.

ScreenHunter_136 Sep. 01 22.04.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Just for clarification the photo from the previous post is just a picture I grabbed from the internet to try to help illustrate my question, thats not my actual head cylinder because mine is still attached inside the car. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #40
They are water passage plugs and do not come out. I looked at Rock Auto and 10 bolts in a head bolt set. So, no, they do NOT come out.
Thanks for the reply,, I was working on this head for a while before my heart attack and just now able to start getting back into it,,,those stripped hex head bolts were a nightmare to get out, in all there was three of them that were stripped.

Had to have been done when the previous owner owned the car because I have never had to mess with the cylinder head up until now. Thanks again for the helpful reply.
 
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