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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a friend was helping me replace the right side motor mount around a week ago. It came off easy/fine-ish. Well, not easy, but no real issues.

When we put the new one on, on of the bolts that go thru the chassis made a loud pop/crack/snap sound and it would no longer tighten. The blue arrow in the attached pic shows the one that had the issue. Here is the link just in case. http://i.imgur.com/vti5KYX.jpg?2 He basically put too much pressure and I think it wasn't aligned right or something as it was just real hard to screw on from the getgo.

We put everything back for now, and test drove it, and it fixed one of the vibration issues. But we could hear the bracket/bolt shift and made a noise when we put it in reverse. After a few days of driving, its just making noise now, not vibration like before, but you can sense the engine not mounted right, and its that bolt. See video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haTVrx_lcRg

The bolt will not come out. I'm trying to put something under the bolt head to create pressure to ratchet it out, but its just not coming out. It'll spin and spin, get tight, when there is pressure, but spin again. Its in the frame, so either most of the thread in the chassis is gone, or the thread on the bolt is.

Can anyone give advice on what I can do?

And once it does get removed, I'm probably gonna have to get the whole rethreaded, and the motor mount hole will need to be redrilled to create a bigger hole I'm guessing. Is that a medium or huge job to do?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Sounds like a weld-on/norton/??? sort of a nut that's welded to the chassis has come loose due to cross threading and some years of rust.

I would approach this one of two ways:

a) use a die grinder etc. and take the head off the bolt, and let it drop through the hole
b) ignore the spinning bolt and just drill and tap 1 or 2 smaller mounting holes on either side to fix bracket in place.

I'm pretty sure that the area those holes go into is a closed metal box..meaning you have no access to the underside from anywhere. So even if you go with option A, you are going to have a creative time finding something solid to replace the old weldon with. Given the age, I'd go with two smaller holes, overdrill the brack portion and put some self-tapping metal bolts (or tap) and snug it down.

Here's a pic of what I call a 'weld-on'...imagine it spot-welded to the chassis from underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like a weld-on/norton/??? sort of a nut that's welded to the chassis has come loose due to cross threading and some years of rust.
not sure. I didn't see any type of rust...but as far as being a welded on nut, I cant say. I haven't heard anything about the motor mount bolts threading into something like that, but its possible.

the bolt goes into the chassis/frame, which I'm sure/think is hollow. But you are correct in that you can't get to it from the bottom.

Man, I'm in such a pickle. If there is any welding involved, then I'm really screwed cuz I don't have the knowhow nor tools.

arggh, this relatively simple job is gonna cost me.
 

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Take option B then. Drill two more holes and install a smaller diameter bolt and be done with it. There's no magic geometry to placement of the original bolt--and no harm to leave it there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I think you're right about that weld bolt. Because if you look at the hole to the very left of the blue arrow, you can see the chassis, and a hole, that has a nut..inside. And the hole to the left of that is just the metal chasis, no nut. Regarding, making two smaller holes/threads, the motor mount has kind of a sloped gap underneath that doesn't sit against the chasis. Only the area where that one bad bolt in does it sit against the chasis.

Has to be exactly what you mentioned. Well, at least i'm understanding...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Take option B then. Drill two more holes and install a smaller diameter bolt and be done with it. There's no magic geometry to placement of the original bolt--and no harm to leave it there.
hey doug, thing is, where would I do the tap and drill. The frame is hollow. are you saying to do that on the actual mount, right below the messed up bolt? The bolt would need to adhere/attach to the frame though, and that piece of metal is so thin, that it wouldn't have a strong attachment. That's why the weld bolt was inside the frame. Sorry if I sound dumb, this is all new to me.
 

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If it goes into the frame, as long as there's clearance underneath, you could drill all the way through and mount a long bolt. That wouldn't be too hard if you lop the top off of the bolt and the bottom part either drops down or you use a punch on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
once I cut that top off the bolt, the rest of it and the weld-on nut is gonna fall. If I do the long bolt, I'll still need to cut a big enough opening from the bottom to remove that bottom half of the bolt and weld-on nut. Either way, that bolt head needs to be cut off. What i'm thinking, is that I'm just going to have someone that's gonna have to open an area, whether its thru the bottom or top. If its thru the top, then a square opening will need to be made, then the bolt/weld-on nut will be removed thru that opening. The weld-on nut (or new one) will have to be re-welded to that square piece that was just removed. Then that square piece needs to be welded back to that frame. Smoothed down, and then it will be like new.

But not something I can tackle.

Is that cut welding job a huge job and/or expensive?
 

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I like @Penguinchit's idea...but if I recall...the lower portion is not flat (ie in same plane as mount surface), so drilling all the way through may be an exercise in frustration. Here's an idea if you can source some....'Rivet Nuts' <-- click here

I also officially open the terminology up to ridicule ;)

Rivet Nuts : defn : noun, Ri'vut N'utz Equivalent to going 'commando' while in Levi's

EDIT

Sherex makes some that appear to be available on fleaBay and other sites. Here is a catalog. And a vendor.
 

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If you went with a Sherex solution, and assuming an M10 is big enough for the hole that exists (they have M12 solution like this too) you would need:

Mandrel plus Nut $7

Some M10 inserts $5

Shipping $10?

The CAL2 line are the large flange, knurled inserts in steel which is fine, rust is your friend in this case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nissan said they send any bodywork to the Ford dealership. Manager at Ford bodyshop called me backsaid they don't do that type of work on chassis, by law or something to that effect, bcuz of structural integrity issues, and that if I took it to him, he'd have to replace that entire area. He offered a solution, something about drilling (4) 1/4 inch holes, grabbing that bolt at the thread with tape, and some how cutting it, and then rewelding it or something like that, thru those holes. I honestly didn't understand what he was getting at. It was way over my head.

..edit, just about to read y'alls replies..thx..
 

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I like Doug's nuts.

That makes sense Papito...So you'd drill holes into the bracket as Doug mentioned. Cut off the top of the bolt that won't come out. Welding it through the holes is just putting the tip of the welder in the hole so the weld will penetrate do the steel. That would be needed because of the aluminum used in the mount. Otherwise, you could have someone weld the bracket right to the frame. It's not way out of position, so if you weld it in place, it'll be fine. The only drawback is if you keep the car long enough to have to change that mount again.
 

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FWIW, I'd just let the stub end of the ground down bolt stay where it falls inside. It will be heavy enough that once it finds the lowest point, it will stay there.

If you are on such rough roads that it starts to rattle around...you have much bigger problems than that noise which you wouldn't be hearing anyways.
 
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