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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, new member here looking for advice.

If it matters, the car is 2010 SE-R.

Anyway, I have been trying to install some LED strips that will coincide with the dome lighting. After just a little research I decided to tap right into the interior fuse panel with a little fuse splitter (the ones with a spot for 2 fuses). Unfortunately, the lights were on all the time when connected to "Interior Lighting" and on all the time if key in and on when connected to "FR Blower". These are the only 2 I tried. I am really reluctant to try more of these all willy nilly. I am guessing none of these fuses will get my desired effect?

So if that's true, further research reveals that there is a couple of ways I could go about this:

1. Run a wire to the engine bay fuse box where I assume the dome lighting fuse is (haven't really checked, it's under the air intake so it's a little cumbersome but I will if I absolutely have to.

2. Maybe a little less intrusive would be to run both positive and negative wires to the plus/negative terminals in the dome light itself. Still... a lot of wire routing to get it under the dash. Seems like a foolproof method for any car though. And I could possibly turn the map light into another dome while I am up there.

3. Splice right into the positive/negative wires connecting the dome to a port... beside/in the interior fuse box? I don't know which port that is or what color wires are which but I am beginning to think this is my best option. One video I watched suggested you could look at the color of the wires leaving the dome. And match them with ones going into fuse box. Is that reliable? Still sounds iffy. Another video showed a whole wiring harness out of the car and mentioned pins A7 and B7 on it's flip side for dome lighting. I think that was a GM though but maybe someone knows of similar specs for Nissan?

Any insight on any of this will help. I would kinda prefer #3 as my wires are all right there already. Maybe I missed something? What would/did you all do?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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6,730 Posts
None of the above is going to work for your LEDs, at least not in the way you would like it to.

The dome light is controlled by the BCM module, which takes a number of inputs and then decides whether to ground it or not. Said simply the bulb is controlled by the -ve side...but wait, there's more. It's not a relay, or a switch, but a transistor, and the BCM modulates this transistor to get the dimming effect in the incandescent bulb that is installed...it can result in more of a flicker effect for LEDs...YMMV.

My recommendation would be to tap into one or more door switches, either at the door pillar, or where they all attach to the bcm...but then this could only make the strips work when one door is opened, and not for any others.

I actually designed a small electronic circuit for another forum member, to allow them to drive a relay to control their interior lights using the BCM signal at the dome light. If you seek, you may find.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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6,730 Posts

(I'll see if I can find the image of the cct if you think it might help)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the response. This was exactly what I didn't want to hear, LOL. I am not an "electrical" guy... Most of that thread you linked kinda went over my head. I am not even a "modder" guy really hahahaha. I did switch out the dome bulb with an LED so I don't think there is any real dimming effect anymore. Also my LED strips are just 1 colour and there is no controller. I was trying to keep this as simple as possible.

I did see a video of someone who connected at the door switch. I immediately vito'd that idea because wouldn't you have to wire all four doors? And even then, it won't come on when the doors unlocked and stuff.

A diagram and a list of needed parts might help me a lot! (I didn't see any diagrams on that thread even though I saw references to them). Thanks for your help.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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6,730 Posts
Well, why don't we try the easiest thing possible first?

Probe your dome light bulb with the +ve probe on your meter, with the negative probe going to body metal. One side will be battery voltage, the other won't...and the won't is the one we are interested in.

Now connect the +ve side of your LED strips to a handy source of battery voltage...the 2:1 fuse adapters you spoke about will do fine.

The negative side of the LED strips should go to the dome bulb wire that isn't at battery voltage. Don't worry if you get it wrong...wrong will just not work at all since you will in effect have battery voltage on both sides of the LED.

See if this will work to your expectations first...and then we go from there.
 
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