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all bolt ons and msd on my 94 and it wouldnt go any faster than 15.5, with a 2.3 60' - with a 5 spd and street tires.
added nitrous and couldnt go faster than 15 flat.
added slicks and ran 14 flat with a 1.9 60'.
that autotragic isnt going to see any real good times without some f.i.
heres me vs hacku before my 14 flat run.
N2o'd 1st gen Altima vs V6 3rd gen Altima - Car Videos on StreetFire
Nice run, slick alone dropped you a full second? And you weren't tuned at all with the nitrous right ?
 
Discussion starter · #45 · (Edited)
friday's track day! rain is supposed to come in saturday instead of friday :woot:

asleep: so a set of slick's is THAT big of a difference on your 60'? i honestly didnt think with our insane 155hp 155tq that slicks would make that big of a difference....guess i know what im buying
 
i was running a 75 shot back then. slicks make a HUGE difference. proof is in the numbers - 2.3 down to 1.9 with slicks alone. to put that in some perspective, ultimatuc ran his 60' at 1.90 and mine was 1.91. his was on boost.
be careful though, my stock clutch with less than 100 miles on it, smoked once i had traction. smoked it in one run. you can imagine what thats doing to an automatic.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
dude ive been trying to fuck this transmission up for the last four year's...its FINALLY starting to show its age...like my torque converter isnt holding my launch as well as it once could...ive beat the living shit out of my car....wish the funds were there for more destruction but their not....

itll be boosted one day...mark my word's...but for the time being a 75 shot will be suficient lol
 
my auto trans is holding up for now. it was stuck in 2nd one day after pulling my motorcycle and trailer for 600 miles, but one hard wot run and it unstuck itself, lol. i run type f fluid in it too so it shifts a lil better than it would with mercon. i do however, have a level 10 trans waiting for me in arizona, for pretty much free... :wall:
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
i think ive tracked down a 94 vlsd....i think thatll help with my 60' but hell so does NOT launching at idle lol........2.63...first time down the track with this car and it was acting all moody and junk....

but for now i have the drop resist mod...and it helps a lot...i also have a completely flushed tranny with clean transmission fluid, ive busted it 3 times and its ran out of fluid all three times...but i only drove it like a mile with it slipping....the other two times it ended up on my driveway :(
 
ayo Jay,

what setting do you have your st sway bar set at? have you tried the 2 different settings? if so, which do you prefer & why? just started reading up on setting it, along with the endlinks. from what i gathered the top hole is the stiffer, resulting in oversteer. the endlinks should be equal length on both sides and i havent read anything on if it should be at the longest or shortest setting. just moved this past weekend and now im back to fine tuning the ride. looking for some good input.
I have it at the top most setting (the one closest to the round section of the sway bar). I actually cut off the other hole. The closer hole gives you the most oversteer (which is what you want).

The longer the endlinks are the more oversteer you will get as well (or at least thats what I'm told).

I'm really happy with how the rear of the car reacts at all times, during the auto-x I was able to get the back end of the car to swing out a bit and it gave me a much better angle for some of the turns....so dial in a lot of oversteer. I think I'm gonna make the endlinks a bit longer when I get a chance.

On the other hand, there is SO much understeer in the front its pathetic.
 
Discussion starter · #52 · (Edited)
i couldnt tell you exactly what it does but it causes harder and faster shift's....i learned about it from a maxima forum...jayjaya has it and an upgraded tranny part's...

ive always seen the drop resistor mod as the poor man's shift kit....you can also just unplug the tcm....which IS the drop resist mod...just with an inline switch

EDIT! from maxima.org
btw this is how i ran my switch...the direction's and locations are SPOT on for the altimas as well
"How To Make A Shift Control for Your Auto Transmission


The transmission in the Nissan Maxima has gets its line pressure control signal through a resistor mounted under the hood. It is mounted on the front side of the drivers-side strut tower. If one disconnects this resistor, the TCM fails safe and automatically applies full line pressure. This makes it shift very hard at every upshift. It shifts hard enough to really chirp the tires. This makes for much improved acceleration. Also, it makes for very jerky part throttle shifts and is probably bad for the transmission in the long run. This also sets of the MIL and makes the tranny flash a code through the "O/D Off" light at startup.

To be able to take advantage of the quicker acceleration and not kill my tranny, I wired in a switch. Now I can disconnect the resistor when I need to for max acceleration, but still have it on for normal driving. I only use this once in a blue moon so resetting the MIL isn't that big of a deal to me.

I just spliced in the WHITE wire with the BLACK stripe on the resistor harness and mounted a switch in my center console. Be sure and use a switch designed for automotive use (the first one I used wasn't and caught on fire)."
 
I have it at the top most setting (the one closest to the round section of the sway bar). I actually cut off the other hole. The closer hole gives you the most oversteer (which is what you want).

The longer the endlinks are the more oversteer you will get as well (or at least thats what I'm told).

I'm really happy with how the rear of the car reacts at all times, during the auto-x I was able to get the back end of the car to swing out a bit and it gave me a much better angle for some of the turns....so dial in a lot of oversteer. I think I'm gonna make the endlinks a bit longer when I get a chance.

On the other hand, there is SO much understeer in the front its pathetic.
at what speeds do you see the front tires losing traction, resulting in understeer? ive read that releasing the throttle will correct that.

understeer - front tires losing traction/car keeps going straight/push as Nascar calls it

oversteer - rear tires lose traction/rear end swings out/loose

what i really want is a neutral handling. i'll just be on city streets so i dont think i want to much oversteer, from what i gather. but im just getting into all this, so its a learn as i go. it'll really be a mission once i get some d2's im sure.

any pics of you auto x'ing the ride? would love to see some...must be a blast for real!
 
+1 for autox pics/vids!
and i too am interested in the handling caracteristics of our cars...i recently got the ST sway bar and Racingline Endlinks. car needs to be fixed b4 i can install em -_-'
 
your gonna really like the new feel Nate. that stock set up is so small.

just be sure to get that 2nd nut on with some lock tite. i just read a thread where a guy drove around with both rl endlinks disconnected and didint even know it - the 2nd nut was never installed and the 1st nut backed out completely. he lost the poly bushings too!
 
question for you guys rocking rl endlinks!

I checked on mine right after work. on the passenger side, the adjustment part expanded significantly on it's own. I guess I forgot to tighten it up. the drivers side looks the same as when I installed them.

will/could the adjustment part of the endlink pop loose? I'm gonna tighten it up, but need to wait till the weekend if possible.
 
No the endlink will/cannot come apart. Or it shouldn't anyways.

This is my setup before I extended the shaft for more oversteer in the rear.


You have the two nuts on the shaft, use em.

No pics/vids from the Auto-X it was raining cats and dogs....

As for normal/spirited driving on the street you will not experience the understeer I felt while doing the Auto-X. When I was doing the auto-x I was pushing my car to the absolute limit, on the street I can't even get close to what I did on the track. But I still do toss her around on the street and the handling is VERY compliant and I don't have that much understeer unless I really plow into a sharp turn with too much speed.

Just dial in some oversteer with the rear endlinks and I think you will be set for the street!

Next Auto-X is May 22nd. Depending on the state of the car I might do it. Shit really chews up your tires and by that date I will only have had the cams in for a week. I need to be past the break in period by then.
 
went under the car tonite and adjusted the bottom nut for now. this is the drivers side, the f'er lengthened itself over the past few weeks from being at it's shortest.



this weekend I'll get them both even length & adjusted long for some oversteer. driving in Miami, there are some areas that I can & will push her to her limits.
 
i couldnt tell you exactly what it does but it causes harder and faster shift's....i learned about it from a maxima forum...jayjaya has it and an upgraded tranny part's...

ive always seen the drop resistor mod as the poor man's shift kit....you can also just unplug the tcm....which IS the drop resist mod...just with an inline switch

EDIT! from maxima.org
btw this is how i ran my switch...the direction's and locations are SPOT on for the altimas as well
"How To Make A Shift Control for Your Auto Transmission


The transmission in the Nissan Maxima has gets its line pressure control signal through a resistor mounted under the hood. It is mounted on the front side of the drivers-side strut tower. If one disconnects this resistor, the TCM fails safe and automatically applies full line pressure. This makes it shift very hard at every upshift. It shifts hard enough to really chirp the tires. This makes for much improved acceleration. Also, it makes for very jerky part throttle shifts and is probably bad for the transmission in the long run. This also sets of the MIL and makes the tranny flash a code through the "O/D Off" light at startup.

To be able to take advantage of the quicker acceleration and not kill my tranny, I wired in a switch. Now I can disconnect the resistor when I need to for max acceleration, but still have it on for normal driving. I only use this once in a blue moon so resetting the MIL isn't that big of a deal to me.

I just spliced in the WHITE wire with the BLACK stripe on the resistor harness and mounted a switch in my center console. Be sure and use a switch designed for automotive use (the first one I used wasn't and caught on fire)."

pics or it didnt happen
 
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