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J

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Discussion Starter #1
first time ive ever disassembled a motor- complete. I have a huge pile of parts from it. Totally took apart block / head.

Here is waht I found. Headgasket blew, causing excess heat in coolant... there was also an issue of overboosting.. overall. Sleeves expanded. Causing... warpage / crack. This let coolant into the combustion chamber which didnt compress. This allowed the rod to go WHAM and break off from the piston. The piston stayed put, the rod kept swinging... basically put a hole in the side of hte block and in the oil sump system.

Head is 100% good!

:p

Block is 100% ****ed!

:(

It only took me about 2 hours to totally take apart motor from start to finish and overall was very easy. Taking out head studs was hardest part. I'm excited to do a buildup in the future, seeing how easy this is.

-Sam
 

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Turbo Motorhead
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3,466 Posts
Sorry to hear about your motor!

Before starting your motor build-up, here's some friendly advice - BUY the NISSAN maunal for your year car and read it, and read it again. It helped me tremendously! Good Luck.
 
J

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Discussion Starter #4
first of all its a honda motor :) second of all im not reusing this block so it dont matter :)
 

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Turbo Motorhead
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JHU Sam said:
first of all its a honda motor :) second of all im not reusing this block so it dont matter :)
My bad, thought you were talking about an Alty, too bad :D

Good choice not to reuse the same block.

Peace
 

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Banned
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2,829 Posts
sorry to hear about your block sam .... so whats next for internals ? CTR ? maybe some spoon or mugen parts ? i say Crv block (b20?) if im not mistaking .. but then again im not the honda guru ..good luck sam ..
 
J

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Discussion Starter #11
ctr internals are way high compression, way high priced, and as strong as USDM itr parts. mugen doesnt make internals. spoon makes rebalanced honda parts, which are overpriced. personally i want to take a b16 motor, resleeve it to 85mm and boost it. it'll be like 1.9l or so... but have tons of high end power with the 1.74 rod/stroke ratio... i duno we'll see. lots of options.
 

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hey Sam ... not sure if youve read this in superstreet ... hopefully some useful info .... ive heard hes dyno his B16 at 375 hp ... and took out a C6 vette last weekend with a full system ...and he has the rims i want so badly .. Volk Gt-N ..but i want mines in Bronze ... anyways check it out ..its for sale but some info for you

http://sinister.zeromonkey.com/sin_cars/sperm_index.html

hes selling the car as is .... drag 3 turbo with ctr internals i belive ..the onwer is matt ..hes friends with some of my friends from Arospeed ....this is 2nd honda i belive that made full article ...if some of you notice the Jacobs ad with the silver HB ..that was his 1st Honda ...now this white one .....
and the Green HB with the bomex front thats always in Speed N Style and Arospeed ADs, he owns a body shop ....
 
J

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Discussion Starter #14
B16A2
Bore/milled B16A2 Block (2nd one)
Drag Generation III Turbo kit
T3/T04E Turbonetics Turbo
HKS Super Sequential Blowoff Valve
HKS Racing Series Wastegate
Spearco Front Mount Intercooler
Chrome piping
HKS EVC
HKS Turbo Timer
Apex'i V-AFC
RC Engineering 370cc Injectors
ITR Intake manifold
Bore/milled B16A2 Block (2nd one)
JE 9:0:1 Pistons (overbore)
Eagle Rods
ARP Head Studs
NuFormz Blockguard
Skunk2 Adjustable Cam Gears
ITR Oil Pump
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM (onrail) FPR
Vortech FPR 12:1
Walbro 255lph intank fuel pump
Jacobs Ice pack ignition system
Tanabe Racing Medalion Exhaust System
CTR Valve cover
Carbon fiber plug wire cover
Full chrome dressup kit
Chrome Reservoirs (radiator, power steering)
Arospeed Ground Wire Kit
Venom Nitrous Setup VNC-1000

quite a setup. H'es using JE pistons and Crower rods... nothing CTR in that block! Just the b16 crank!

Thats a very extreme setup... im surprised he still uses rc 370s which are tiny, and a damn 12:1 fmu setup... thats gonna blow his motor. Hes gotta be pushing about 170psi of fuel pressure.

I'd take 440cc or 550cc injectors nad standalone over that anyday :)

BTW, drag turbos sux! They come with B trim turbos and cast manifolds / downpipes that crack easily. My next kit will be custom.
 

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Die Trying
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8,357 Posts
this is t3/t4 right?

sorry to hear about your luck, bro. that sucks
i like your plans for the new set up. But i am just
wondering why you're deciding to go with the b16.
imo, the b18 and the b20 are better foundations.

just curious

i hope (just thinking) to get a LS head and b20 block
with some sort of turbo set up. It's just a thought i've
been having lately. not sure if i'm gonna do it, or at
least not right now.
 

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it would seem like a 1.8 should have more than a 1.6 ...but belive it or not i have a friend with a 97 Gs-R with a B16 and b16 tranny ... when i ask him why not a LS block with a vtec head ..or a GSR block ...he said his b16 was making more then the 1.8s and also was doing a mid 12s ... Hondas are soo much easier to mess with ...
 
J

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Discussion Starter #20
ok ok let me xplain.

b16, b18, and b20 blocks are very very similar. Here are hte differences:

b16 - same sleeves as any b18. 81mm. Difference? Crank holds rods that give a rod / stroke ratio of 1.74.

b18a/b - same sleeves as b16 or b18. Difference? Crank holds rods that give a rod stroke ratio of 1.54.

b18c - same sleeves as b16. Difference? Crank holds rods that give a rod stroke ratio of 1.58.

b20 - same block as a b18b. Same crank too... difference? sleeves come at 84mm from factory.

Essentially, the motors are very very similar. I want to get a 1.9litre block (by boring out to 85mm on iron ductile sleeves) with a the rod stroke ratio of a b16a... this will let my motor BREATH relaly well up high. The 1.54 rod/stroke ratio of a b20 or b18 block makes a lot of low end torque, but the really fast piston speed causes a power drop off in the upper rpms. Considering i'd be boring out so much, buyin ga b20 is pointless, as it is the same block as a b18, just much more xpensive.

There are other differences between vtec and non vtec blocks. Cranks are balanced, piston relifs, rods, oil pump, etc...

but essentially i'm just listing in terms of engine geometry, not specifics.
 
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