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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2010 Altima 2.5 S

Im replacing the cvt fluid and during the discovery phase of how to do it, I learned that Rogues, Muranos, Pathfinders... Honda cvt's.. Mitsubishi cvts... have a internal mesh filter and an external fine filter. After learning this, it made no sense why Altimas would not also have an external fine filter. Several hours later I discovered that Altimas do have an external fine filter and it is possible to replace it.

The parts required for fluid flush and filters is attached pic. The internal mesh filter o-ring is one of the parts posted. The plan is to clean the original mesh filter and reuse it. The two copper crush washers are for the trans inlet tube attached to the Cooler Filter Housing (see pic) where the fine filter is located. It would be easier to remove the Cooler Filter Housing with the tube also removed, although not necessary.

I tried to attach the Valve Body TQ sequence but it would not let me. Its a very good idea to check them.


Valve Body half bolts to 70-108 in. lbs. in sequence
Cooler Filter Housing - 4 small bolts - Torque bolts to 37 In. Lbs.
CVT Internal Mesh Filter - 70 in. lbs
CVT Transmission Pan - 70 in. lbs

Forgot to mention, in the parts pic their is a Murano/Maxima cvt filter. This is going to be installed before the Altima Cooler Filter and will be changed every 30k miles so that the more difficult Cooler Filter does not need to be. I looked into all the popular plastic inline filters with small magnets and am not comfortable with those. They are prone to leak, use a paper/cellulose filter and should be changed annually as the paper element does break down.


Update 1: The Cooler Filter, 31726-3JX0A, the dealership provided is the wrong. I "think" the correct filter part is 31726-1XF00. The Cooler Housing O-Ring is also wrong. See attached pic. Its Sunday and dealership is closed, cant get correct parts today.

The old cooler filter and mesh screen looked good. A few small metal pieces in the mesh screen and some pieces of gunk, all very small. Decided since its all apart to change both filters and NEVER change them again. But, I will still use the Murano filter and change that every 30k miles.

Good news, I removed 6 quarts of NS-2. 4 1/2 from the dipstick tube last evening. I let the car sit over night and removed another 1 1/2 this morning from dropping trans pan. It will be interesting to see how much new fluid it will require to flush system.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Spoke with Nissan and they claim the Cooler Housing Filter is not serviceable and they do not list part numbers for the filter or o-ring. That is total beeswax... Mitsubishi uses the same filter and it is serviceable. MANY Mitsubishi and Nissan owners (Juke and others) replace this filter...

Anyway these are the part numbers for Filter and o-ring.

Nissan Part number for Cooler Housing Filter (this is the Filter Juke and others use) - Filter Assembly Oil Part 31726-1XF00
Mitsubishi part number for same Filter - 2824A006
Mitsubishi Cooler Housing O-Ring (Nissan does not have this available but it is the same that my Altima uses) = 2920A096

If you decide to replace the mesh strainer rather then clean it, and want to save some money, the predecessor to 31728-1XF03 is 31728-1XZ0D. The 31728-1XF03 is a different design then my original. The mesh is flat, no pleats, and the original mesh screen looks more durable. But I "think", hard to say for sure, the newer version has a finer filter mesh. Again, hard to say for certain just looking at them. I figure since its what the newer cars are using and given Nissans problematic cvt history, they changed it for the better.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Best and most useful 'hack' I've seen in a long time! Well done.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Best and most useful 'hack' I've seen in a long time! Well done.
hack??? lol I am the one getting hacked;) The dealership guys kept telling me their is no cooler housing filter. When I proved them wrong they said its not serviceable and no parts are available. When I gave them the Mitsubishi part number and explained to them the Jute filter is the same, and many people service them, they paused. Then proceeded to tell me that some cars are serviceable.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
"Some" are? Thats hilarous. You cant fix stupid...
"Some" other options for the Housing Cooler Filter. Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto sell the Nissan filter 31726-1XF00 as FK-403 and FK403. Nice of Nissan to inform me these are not serviceable.

JF011E Transmission - atspareparts.com

In the CVT RE0F10A (JF011E F1CJA) - 2 filters: one internal filter of the valve body - in the pan a closed metal coarse filter with a grid with a sampling tube (14mm, 21mm or 30mm - depending on the depth of the pan). Change this filter infrequently, along with the change of burned frictions and oil. The valve body filters differ only in the length of the oil intake for different depths of the pans. Non-interchangeable.

An additional external fine-finishing cartridge is located outside the CVT under the heat exchanger. An additional filter is very important, since it allows you to change the filter especially often (for CVTs), maintaining the purity of the oil, which in CVTs is critical for the long life of the transmission.

The metal filter is washed during capital repairs, but in the case of a burnt oil, its fine mesh is clogged with refractory resins from the adhesive layer of the friction linings. And in these cases, the valve body filter is also changed
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That is pretty much what I expect with a trip to service.......Why I avoid like plague.

You have no idea how I also avoid dealerships. In this instance their were no any other options. I searched for info about the Altima external filter and could not find threads, posts, youtube... any info about replacing it and had to start somewhere. The JF011E diagrams showed a filter in the Cooler Housing and all other cvt equipped vehicles have a serviceable filter. I eventually found a Nissan part number for Cooler Housing Filter which turned out was not for the Altima but did get the hunt a foot leading to the discovery of the correct parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Pics of the Cooler Housing Filter. 2010 2.5, 68,ooo miles with original NS-2, never flushed or drained. Several metal flakes in closeup pic. I saw only a few small pieces in the mesh filter.

Servicing the fine filter every 30k-60k miles seems reasonable given the condition of my filter. Their was not sludge or thick build up blocking the filter.

The filter is easy to change when doing a drain and fill or flush. 4 small bolts to remove cooler filter housing, 1 large bolt for inlet line and 1 small bolt holding inlet line bracket.


These are the parts necessary to change the fine filter. I reused the Cooling Housing o-ring since I needed to get the car put back together and Nissan does not have a part for it and Mitsubishi did not have one in stock.

- Fine Filter - Nissan 31726-1XF00 or Mitsubishi 2824A006
- Gasket/O-Ring for Cooling Filter Housing (Nissan does show the o-ring or filter in parts diagrams. They say it is not serviceable - pathetic!) - Mitsubishi 2920A096
- Crush Washers (return line to Cooling Filter Housing) - Nissan 21626-32U00

- Cooler Filter Housing - Torque bolts to 37 in. lbs.
 

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Thank you for the detailed post.

You attached an image for the paper filter housing, from what position did you take that image? And how do you yiu access the filter housing?

I think I located it's place yesterday (from underneath the car) but I'm not 100% sure that was it.
 

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Thank you for the detailed post.

You attached an image for the paper filter housing, from what position did you take that image? And how do you yiu access the filter housing?

I think I located it's place yesterday (from underneath the car) but I'm not 100% sure that was it.
unfortunately this is an old post so there may be no reply from original poster (though i hope so, its a great post )

i am doing the same thing with cvt fluid change and want to do all the filters as well so i will keep you posted .....
 

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today i dropped the pan and put innthe new filter(1 of 2) There was about 5 qrts in there..... didn't se much except a dark grey sludge stuck to the magnet that are attached to the pan.....so yes magnets do work..... of course i added 5 quarts of fluid.

also i removed and replaced filter number 2 .... i can see why they say it's not serviceable its a pain in the a$$ to get to ....it is in the front attached to the transmission with the 4 bolts facing the passenger side. the top 2 are somwhat tricky to get to especially the inside one.

tomorrow i am going to disconnect the line that goes to the radiator and by starting the car, leaving it in park the remaining transmission fluidshould come out. like the video below.


below is the first post in the above video and between the original poster of this thread, the video, and the below conments...it pretty much covers a complete fluid and filter change in a nissan cvt transmission 2007 to 2012

from the above youtube video....
Good step-by-step video for the novice. it's full of details, info and easy to follow. On the fluid, NS-2 is the only option. There is a controversy between the NS-2 Nissan v aftermarket which has to do with whether full-synthetic aftermarkets are suitable. It is currently thought that they are harmful. I found a Japanese CVT fluid maker (eBay) that has NS2 and NS3 for like $8qt. That's the way to go (if not using the more expensive Nissan brand).
The process of draining the old fluid is best done by draining the pan, first. There are 7.8 qts total in the CVT for 2007-09 Altimas w 2.5 (Jatco RE0F10A) and the two areas that hold the most are the pan and the torque converter. We can get nearly 4qts out by draining the pan, first, without even having to start the car (in fact, you drain the pan with a warm tranny but engine off.)
Once your pan is drained, replace the exact amount of fluid you drained from pan, using new fluid poured in through the filler/dipstick tube. Now, using the set-up Gus shows here, you can continue the flushing-out of the old fluid with little mixing between old and new, as the new is picked up from pan, fed through pressurized chambers and pushes the old out. You will start to notice a radical color change (if your old fluid is dirty/dark) by the end of the seventh qt.
Set up your drain system (just like Gus shows here) and make sure you can see the liquid coming out. Proceed to drain out 2 to 3 qts. at-a-time, by turning engine on-off as shown. Make sure you measure what comes out, and put back the same amount each time. The transmission will now pick up the fresh, new fluid from pan and distribute it, pushing all the old out in front of it. After 8-9 qts you should have nothing but new fluid coming out. Stop there. Reconnect your hoses and go for easy 15min warm-up test drive. Take a dip stick reading while hot. Make sure you leave exactly 7.8 qts in - don't overfill. (((The tranny has to be hot to get accurate fluid read. The cold read makes it seem like its overfilled.))) Your tranny is flushed.
Also, these trannys have a screen filter/pick-up and an in-line cooler fluid filter, accessible through round capped compartment on LH of tranny (front on Altimas) with the four hex bolts and the shorter metal pressure line coming out of it. These should be inspected for clogging, replaced -- especially if you're nearing 100k miles. There are suitable aftermarket replacements. If you're gonna go that extra step, then, drain pan, remove pan and remove filter cap (you'll need pan gasket and O-ring for filter compartment) and change these out before doing flush. I can find NO video on how to do this, nor is it in the TM section of the FSM. I'm going to try to make one and post a link here. I think your post could help many in the dark as to what to do when they're faced w these problems. The dealership wont work on them except measure/evaluate fluid and change it.
These transmissions are great. The problem is that the consumer has been falsely led to believe that there is no maintenance on them. Nissan recommends fluid check every 30k (if you don't have that on record, it voids tranny warranty). They have a way of analyzing the amount of suspended particles in the fluid to determine whether it should be changed or not. If the fluid is old, 90-100k, it begins to have too many particles which clog the valve body and solenoids. This causes the hard shifts and shakes known to be associated with these rascals. Good Luck.
 

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Thanks for the writeup. I had a new transmission put in around 10k miles ago. It ran fine for awhile and started to whine and hesitate again. So I took it to the dreaded dealership and was going to have the fluid changed but they said it seemed like it was the engine, when taking off from a stop there wasn't much power like it was in high gear, and to do a tuneup. Clean the throttle body etc. So I did along with the usual, plugs and whatnot and I also changed the fluid myself. It seemed to run better, no whining and better takeoff but it's starting to act up again and it seems like it only does it when on a long drive, say 45 mins to an hour. Not the whining just no power taking off or it's bogged down.

So I changed the filter and as you can see in the pleats there's a lot of shavings. I'm going to change the fluid again and hopefully it will help.
 

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not sure that's related miht wnat to make sure at the cost of the fluid in this car.....

fwiw there is much easier access to the second filter that i cursed at a bit.... remove the air intake port (its 2 10mm bolts above the radiator) and its outta there then just go in from the top ......MUCH easier.
 

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not sure that's related miht wnat to make sure at the cost of the fluid in this car.....

fwiw there is much easier access to the second filter that i cursed at a bit.... remove the air intake port (its 2 10mm bolts above the radiator) and its outta there then just go in from the top ......MUCH easier.

Thanks for the tip. That top bolt on the housing was a pain for sure.
 

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not sure that's related miht wnat to make sure at the cost of the fluid in this car.....

fwiw there is much easier access to the second filter that i cursed at a bit.... remove the air intake port (its 2 10mm bolts above the radiator) and its outta there then just go in from the top ......MUCH easier.

By the second filter you mean the paper filter? And the first filter would be the metal one inside the cvt above the the pan?
 

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By the second filter you mean the paper filter? And the first filter would be the metal one inside the cvt above the the pan?
Yea it's mostly paper metal cap and rubber gasket too......underneath a metal housing with a fluit line atttached on the passenger side of the trans 4 10mm bolts I am pretty sure
 

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I'm in the middle of replacing both filters. I couldn't find the paper filter housing, so being the idiot I am, I took out the cvt oil pump. (And in order to remove one of the bolts, I removed everything in the way. Battery, battery tray frame, ECM and TCM, wire bundles, CVT dip stick).

Does the oil pump just bolt back into place or do I have to do something special to align the teeth with anything maybe?

The thing I took out looks like an oil pump, it sits high on the cvt from the drivers side. It has a wire connected to it. See the attached image, I drew an arrow to the round cylindrical housing and another arrow to the bottom bolt I had removed.

I will post what I did with pictures tomorrow hopefully so people in the future don't have to keep looking for the damn thing.

And BTW, the FSM doesn't mention anything at all about any of this, not the filters nor the pump.

Also btw, Fukc that top bolt, I'm already worried about screwing it back in. And F the left bolt too.
 
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