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Two CVT Trans Filters - External Fine and Internal Mesh

87K views 76 replies 24 participants last post by  rogoman 
#1 · (Edited)
2010 Altima 2.5 S

Im replacing the cvt fluid and during the discovery phase of how to do it, I learned that Rogues, Muranos, Pathfinders... Honda cvt's.. Mitsubishi cvts... have a internal mesh filter and an external fine filter. After learning this, it made no sense why Altimas would not also have an external fine filter. Several hours later I discovered that Altimas do have an external fine filter and it is possible to replace it.

The parts required for fluid flush and filters is attached pic. The internal mesh filter o-ring is one of the parts posted. The plan is to clean the original mesh filter and reuse it. The two copper crush washers are for the trans inlet tube attached to the Cooler Filter Housing (see pic) where the fine filter is located. It would be easier to remove the Cooler Filter Housing with the tube also removed, although not necessary.

I tried to attach the Valve Body TQ sequence but it would not let me. Its a very good idea to check them.


Valve Body half bolts to 70-108 in. lbs. in sequence
Cooler Filter Housing - 4 small bolts - Torque bolts to 37 In. Lbs.
CVT Internal Mesh Filter - 70 in. lbs
CVT Transmission Pan - 70 in. lbs

Forgot to mention, in the parts pic their is a Murano/Maxima cvt filter. This is going to be installed before the Altima Cooler Filter and will be changed every 30k miles so that the more difficult Cooler Filter does not need to be. I looked into all the popular plastic inline filters with small magnets and am not comfortable with those. They are prone to leak, use a paper/cellulose filter and should be changed annually as the paper element does break down.


Update 1: The Cooler Filter, 31726-3JX0A, the dealership provided is the wrong. I "think" the correct filter part is 31726-1XF00. The Cooler Housing O-Ring is also wrong. See attached pic. Its Sunday and dealership is closed, cant get correct parts today.

The old cooler filter and mesh screen looked good. A few small metal pieces in the mesh screen and some pieces of gunk, all very small. Decided since its all apart to change both filters and NEVER change them again. But, I will still use the Murano filter and change that every 30k miles.

Good news, I removed 6 quarts of NS-2. 4 1/2 from the dipstick tube last evening. I let the car sit over night and removed another 1 1/2 this morning from dropping trans pan. It will be interesting to see how much new fluid it will require to flush system.
 
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#43 · (Edited)
Thank you Rich. That did it and helped a lot. So that cvt fluid paper filter is accessible from under battery and under the air box correct or is that oil cooler tuna can you're referencing in that location?

BTW the tuna can is not a filter i think. Those are parts for cooler you bought. Mine 2014 already has a fluid cooler so i will not be doing any of that. I just need to change cvt fluid paper filter.

I will only be changing the cvt fluid paper filter. I'm also assuming it's part number 013 on this picture here but also noticed it lists two but one is unavailable and looking at dimensions of the paper filter they are different.

Only B is available but A is not and they are different sizes. I'm not sure why they listed two of them. Maybe this can be cross referenced with another site you listed. Thoughts?

Bingo i crossed refference that with amazon listed filter and it's same one. RE0F10A/B, JF011E (CVT), 2007-Up. Funny is that amazon wants $25.39 while that site only asks $5.39. Notice 500% mark up hahaha.

Part number is 31726-1XF00 Filter Cartridge (RE0F10A/B, JF011E)
https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-31726-1XF00-RE0F10A-JF011E-CVT/dp/B07CFS33PH

Maybe some can tell me if this part can be changed from top under the battery?

http://oi67.tinypic.com/34ypgk6.jpg

http://oi68.tinypic.com/rsd7r8.jpg



 
#46 · (Edited)
YES that is the correct Paper FILTER See my list of parts?



:angel Sefyu Thanks for the compliment! (hit the 'thanks' and the 'like' buttons)

OK I assume you have a 2014 Altima 2.5 4 cylinder is that right?

Yes, that is the correct paper filter cartridge for the 2.5L 4-cylinder warmer/cooler aka Heat Exchanger Housing---the other one (which shows none in stock) is TOO LONG and TOO FAT? You should also order the O-Ring from Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts. The part is Part No: 212326A O-Ring, RE0F10A (JF011E) (Nissan/Dodge) Cooler Filter Housing To Case (2.760"OD)(.125"Thick) 2007-Up Price $1.81.

Note in dealing with Whatever It Takes ask them to "mail" you those two parts to save shipping fees. Tiffany is who I dealt with up in Louisville, KY. If you want her email, PM me.

As far as finding the filter housing... It is NOT under the battery tray area it is on the bell house side (aka front of the CVT -- just to the left of the dip stick where it goes into the pan) Once you get under the car look for where the hose attaches from the return port on the radiator. There is a bolt thru the housing on the side facing the front of the car. I plan on trying NOT to have to remove that bolt and line connection from the housing --- You just need to remove the 4 hex head (10mm?) bolts to remove the warmer housing and get to the filter. The new O-Ring needs to be prepped with a bit of NS2 as you replace it and the filter cartridge. FYI the filter goes in witht he rubber end into the housing towards the CVT case to seal against the back of the housing. The end of the filter at the housing cover (re:reinstall the cover) has a metal end.


NOTE: Point of reference, there are at least (3) types of warmer/cooler aka heat exchangers on the CVT that Nissan/Jatco used. I call them in this fashion (per the way they look in thier design) 1) You have the "Cast Metal Housing" 2) You have the "Tin Can", and 3) you have a varity of what I call the 'Aluminum Bee Hive Types' -- these are finned or fluted on the exterior with tubes sticking out, there are round ones, square ones, and retangular ones) I think most V-8 have this type while the V-6 tend to have the Tin Can style. So far that is what I have found.

There is also a metal filter in the pan with a mesh screen that is attached with two short bolts and 1 long bolt (very critical you put the bolts back into the same place they came out of. It bolts to the bottom of the valve body and the long bolt helps hold the valve body in place. That 'mesh' filter can be found using the Transmission Model Number for your vehicle that you got from Whatever Transmission Parts.

I am adding the Nissan Factory Service Kit Transmission Oil Cooler also! I found the best price from an ebay seller called 'Nissan Hawk': NEW OEM NISSAN ALTIMA 2007-2012 CVT TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER SERVICE KIT part number 21606-ZX59A. NissanHawk UPC #273049177767 .)

I got 12qts of fluid at BeelineParts.com -- 12 Qts NS2 NISSAN CVT Transmission Oil (Fluid) From:Was $165.99 with 10% Coupon = $143.39 PLUS 2nd BONUS FREE SHIPPING! I Emailed them and asked for a PROMO code and the sent me one for -10%. Always ask for discounted parts prices and shipping fees! ALWAYS!:nerd
 
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#44 · (Edited)
Guys this thread is gold, very helpful. I think i have figured out why our trannies are failing. @Altima S 2010 gave me a hint and i combined that with what happened to me this summer.

So this summer i got a tranny code, check engine light. I ran torque to scan code in ECU. Code was P0776 Selenoid stuck in off position. Here is the description of this code.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0776

More specifically the cause i believe it to be this Dirty or contaminated fluid and Dirty or clogged transmission filter which leads to Transmission overheating which leads to Vehicle enters limp mode.

The reason why this is happening is what AltimaS2010 described. Nissan changed the design of the mesh filter for more finer particle trap. Hence this was not implemented before fine metal transmission particles were getting threw the filter and entering transmission components which leads to overheating at first and failure later on.

NOW....what's even more fed up Nissan is telling us both of those filters are non-serviceable and you should not which adds even more failure to this whole situation. I wonder if they are trying to make money on selling us new transmission and us paying for cost of their labor. Imagine if you never change motor oil filter and motor oil as well. What kind of result we would get?

I guess the mesh filter needs to be replaced for newer one to catch more finer part metal particles, that paper filter since it's paper needs to be replaced as well as lets say it has 100,000 miles on it.
Also obviously entire fluid flush needs to be performed to flush out all fine metal particles that are already in the fluid and new fluid which cools down the tranny as old does not do it well anymore as it broke down long time ago chemically so cooling is not efficient anymore. Finer metal particles are also causing overheating on top of worn out tranny fluid.

I can't believe the negligence of Nissan and straight up lies they tell it's customers that buy their cars. This is why they're getting suited.

Bottom line and moral of the story both filters need to be replaced, the mesh metal filter is more important and full flush to get rid of fine metal particles from tranny's fluid which will prevent tranny from overheating which will prevent your Nissan entering limp mode. The new fluid also will be more stable chemically to cool down tranny during operation.
 
#45 ·
Guys this thread is gold, very helpful. I think i have figured out why our trannies are failing. @Altima S 2010 gave me a hint and i combined that with what happened to me this summer.

So this summer i got a tranny code, check engine light. I ran torque to scan code in ECU. Code was P0776 Selenoid stuck in off position. Here is the description of this code.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0776

More specifically the cause i believe it to be this Dirty or contaminated fluid and Dirty or clogged transmission filter which leads to Transmission overheating which leads to Vehicle enters limp mode.

The reason why this is happening is what AltimaS2010 described. Nissan changed the design of the mesh filter for more finer particle trap. Hence this was not implemented before fine metal transmission particles were getting threw the filter and entering transmission components which leads to overheating at first and failure later on.

NOW....what's even more fed up Nissan is telling us both of those filters are non-serviceable and you should not which adds even more failure to this whole situation. I wonder if they are trying to make money on selling us new transmission and us paying for cost of their labor. Imagine if you never change motor oil filter and motor oil as well. What kind of result we would get?

I guess the mesh filter needs to be replaced for newer one to catch more finer part metal particles, that paper filter since it's paper needs to be replaced as well as lets say it has 100,000 miles on it.
Also obviously entire fluid flush needs to be performed to flush out all fine metal particles that are already in the fluid and new fluid which cools down the tranny as old does not do it well anymore as it broke down long time ago chemically so cooling is efficient anymore.

I can't believe the negligence of Nissan and straight up lies they tell it's customers that buy their cars. This is why they're getting suited.

Bottom line and moral of the story both filters need to be replaced, the mesh metal filter is more important and full flush to get rid of fine metal particles from the tranny which will prevent tranny from overheating which will prevent your Nissan entering limp mode.

Agreed. Change out both filters, fluid and add the Nissan oil cooler kit and this addresses all the cvt short comings.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10074565-2280.pdf

Kit: SERVICE KIT-COOLER ASSY 21606-ZX59A
 
#47 · (Edited)
I have located most if not all parts i need for 2014 which btw all parts are same, execpt what you guys call Tuna can which holds that paper filter. What does this part do? Can you help me out locating it?

The year is not mine and it shows actually v6 engine so i think that's not for 2014 altima 2.5 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/par...model=Sedan&Filter=(2=QR25DE;3=25S;4=CVT/QR25)

@Rich in KY ....NO that Tuna can does NOT come with filter. It's only housing assembly which does NOT contain that paper filter. You will need to add paper filter separately. All of our parts match from what i see. The paper filter is same for our cars it seems.

BTW my tranny dipstick is on it's way so i'm excited to check the level and fluid color. It's probably going to be black. lol

Any other parts i need? Anyone know if cvt fluid pan gasket needs replacing or one can reuse it? I am still trying to figure out tuna can part number for 2014 altima?
 
#49 ·
I have located most if not all parts i need for 2014 which btw all parts are same, execpt what you guys call Tuna can which holds that paper filter. What does this part do? Can you help me out locating it?

The year is not mine and it shows actually v6 engine so i think that's not for 2014 altima 2.5 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/par...model=Sedan&Filter=(2=QR25DE;3=25S;4=CVT/QR25)

BTW if anyone wants cheap OEM parts shipped from Japan this site is great at the fraction of the cost of acquired from dealer.
Take a look at mesh filter it's $20 vs $45 from OEM and if you look at the pics you're getting OEM part manufactured in Japan btw.

https://www.amayama.com

Any other parts i need?

@Rich in KY ....NO that Tuna can does NOT come with filter. It's only housing assembly which does NOT contain that paper filter. You will need to add paper filter separately. All of our parts match from what i see. The paper filter is same for our cars it seems.

The "tuna can", I never called it that for the record, is a Murano/Maxima CVT filter part number 31726-1XE0A and may fit other vehicles. It is not a 2007-2012 2.5 cvt filter. Picture and part info is discussed in the very first post and it does in fact contain a filter element.


My thread is getting a bit polluted with the same info being regurgitated... Also, this is the 2007-2012 Altima forum and this thread specifically states "2010 Altima 2.5 S" at the very top of the first post.
 
#53 ·
Guys it appears 2014 altima 2.5 has this type of cooler (Nissan CVT Transmission Oil Cooler with O-rings 21606-28X0B) with 4 line which is good,

but now i don't know which line to use to drain the remaining tranny fluid for full flush?

I think it's ports with black caps but the one that's bump on it or the one without the bump? Can someone confirm please?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuin...lPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!60070!US!-1:rk:9:pf:0

 
#54 ·
Sorry I don't know either ---



Sefyu, Sorry I don't know either ---:frown
 
#55 · (Edited)
Black caps - the hoses contain NS3 fluid and go to and back from the radiator ( NS3 oil cooling function)
Yellow caps - the hoses contain contain engine coolant and go to and back from the engine block to transfer heat from the engine coolant to the NS3 fluid (NS3 oil warming functon).

Most of the time engine coolant is not circulating through the lines connecting to the ports with the yellow caps as flow is regulated by an inline thermostat.
 
#63 ·
So I'm working with my 2011 altima, trying to get to this second filter. I spent about 30 mins just now trying to see if I can even get to the bolts. What I saw, was in the very front of the CVT closest to the radiator, towards the passenger side, there is a heat exchange or something of the sort, mounted sideways towards the passenger side. It has 4 10mm bolts and it looks like an oil return line i believe is what they're called, it has a line with a crush washer on top and bottom of the connector. Anyways, I can get at 3 bolts, the two closest to the radiator, and the one far away on the bottom (barely). but the one going towards the back of the car on top just seems damn near impossible to get to. Am I trying to take off the wrong piece or what, does anyone have any advice on how to get this thing off?
 
#64 ·
Nvm, I got it, idk how, after a bit of trying to get the bolt I realized it was loose, I think it was the 10mm ratcheting wrench I had (WHICH IS VERY USEFUL FOR THIS). I did unforunately have to take off the oil cooler line to get to that bolt...which was a BITCH to get back on. I didnt really pay attention to which way the filter was facing but im pretty sure it only goes one way anyways. I also had to bend the line out of the way a bit which made the process of putting it back on a lot harder. I didn't get new crush washers though...I should have but by that time the auto parts stores were closed and I needed my car, so I flipped them over and just made sure I made it reeaall tight. Checked for leaks at the heat exchange housing and at that line. no leaks.



THE CAR DRIVES TOTALLY DIFFERENT AFTER CHANGING THAT FILTER. now I did just change the fluid and internal filter. but after changing this filter, the transmission is soooo much more responsive and it honestly drives like a new car. 155k miles. totally worth changing if you're thinking of doing it!
 
#69 ·
Ok, this a bit off topic, but i'll ask anyway.

Do the 6 cylinder Altima's use the same automatic transmission as the 4 cylinder Altima's ?

I've owned two different Altima's in the past, but older ones, without transmission problems.
I might be interested in another.

Thanks
They are technically not automatic as they don't have gears to shift through. They are know as a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT). They have an infinite gear ratio, so there's no shifting that occurs. You floor the accelerator pedal and the RPMs will go to redline of 6000 RPM and stay there until you back out of the pedal. The 2.5L uses the RE0F10A and the 3.5L uses the RE0F09B, similar however not identical.
 
#72 ·
Just want to let everyone know that the external filter (paper) cover gasket is different for 2008, compared to the one mentioned in this thread which I believe is for a 2010-2012. I bought the Mitsubishi gasket mentioned earlier on this thread and it does not fit my 2008. 2008 is much smaller, I guess they enlarged the filter cover (tin can) for the 2010-2012 years.

Just a heads up for those with 2007 -2009 (I suspect since mine was 2008) model. My gasket looked/ felt like new so I just reused it. Also, I think that part is no longer available from Nissan...
 
#74 · (Edited)
Sorry for bring up an old thread.

I have an 07 Altima 2.5S. Thanks for the confirmation. I'm collecting parts to change the filter. I ordered the Mitsubishi 2920A096 and it looks too big.( ~3.5" OD)

'Rich in KY' references 'Whatever It Takes' o-ring 212326A which has a 2.760" OD with 0.125" thk. (I also saw in a Youtube using the same part for 2011)... very confusing.

Screen capture from the video,

102147


102148
 
#73 ·
I have a 2007 2.5 s model out here in Mexico and I was told by the dealer ship that they don't service the paper filter. I then talked to a buddie of mine who works for a Nissan part store and stated his computer showed my 2007 altima with cvt did not use that filter.. Here is a picture above showing that nissan doesn't even care to have this filters to sell to their buyers out here. I had to get under the car and prove to him that it had this filter...
101409
 
#76 ·
Glad its still helpful. Their are a lot of utube vids now with this info. In hind site, I should have spent the money and installed a trans drain pan with a drain plug. Most years have that. 2010 does not. 2010 does have a real dipstick though and most other years do not. Crazyness....
 
#77 ·
The CVT uses a wire screen filter instead of a solid mesh filter. Normally all you need to do is remove the drain plug and do a drain/fill procedure. Most of the time there's no need to replace the filter unless you find debris in the drained fluid that's greater then 1 mm (0.040 in) in size; drain the fluid through a large coffee filter to look for debris. For a simple drain/fill, it takes about 4.25 quarts of the NS-2 fluid; pour in 4 qts. Now make sure to bring up the CVT to full operating temporature by driving the car around slowly for about 30 minutes. Now let it idle and slowly pour a little of the fluid in, then check your dip stick and if not full, pour some more in. Just a little at a time until it's at the full mark; better slightly underfull then overfull; overfull Now drive it some more for about 15 minutes or more, then check the fluid level while it's idling. Don't mess with the filter under the beehive, Nissan doesn't recommend ever changing it even if the beehive is replaced. The reason is, CVT's have almost no clutch material and never make "ATF soup" like a conventional A/T. So the filter's primary purpose is only to catch fine metal particles that get through the front pump instead of settling out in the pan. Changing it incautiously or back-flushing the system (never do that!) can both put those particulates back in circulation. You'll be better served to simply drop the pan every couple-three changes and clean it out.
 
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