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Which connectors are you referring to? Maybe start with a pic of the rear of your existing HU, or at least the part number or model number from the front.
Its the navigation system without bose for the 2013 Altima.
I think I need the white female connector (M44) from the 13' Altima XM radio unit.
For the Navigation unit, I need the male connector (M97) so I can bring over the steering wheel controls and back up camera.


This first picture attached is the stock radio unit and the 2nd file is the stock navigation unit.

Thanks again for your help.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Discussion Starter #102
sorry, must've missed this. The upper white connector is going to be the fun part on the new NAV unit, the lower is the standard one I believe. By standard I mean the -0 variant with the default keying in the plastic surround. You could probably use two of the standard flavour with a little dremeling, or dig around on the TE website to see if you can match the upper keying with a product variant...and then source that through Mouser or similar.
 

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factory headunit transplant

The following is a PM with d0ugmac1:

Sorry to revive an old thread, but-

I have a 2014 Nissan Versa Note with a base (Clarion) radio. I did a similar mod similar to what you did to your Altima. I replaced my base radio with the next radio up, a Nissan display radio (Panasonic) last year.

I used the Versa Note FSM to correctly map the signals from the old connector to the new connector. I used solder and heat shrink for all connections.

Reverse camera, iPod/iPhone USB interface, and the rest of the radio work fine. But the handsfree option hasn't worked since I did the install last year. Three of the steering wheel switches work: source, tuning, volume all work fine. But the PTT (push to talk) handsfree switch does not work.

That's when I saw page three of your thread. In a attempt to get the handsfree working, I found the newer Bluetooth module (28383ZY71A) online to replace the older one (283833VY1A) I have. I also noted on the Bluetooth Module portion of the Versa Note FSM that pins 4, 23, & 24 are grounded. So I soldered the same jumper wires to those pins like you did. I also disconnected pin 24 from the 32 pin connector of the Bluetooth Module.

When I tested functionality, I didn't get the "Add Phone" prompt nor did I get the ability to add a phone via the headunit right control knob. When I ran the internal diagnostic tests on the radio, and it says radio and bluetooth module are working.

Would you have any suggestions for me to try?

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d0ugmac1's response:

Sounds like a software incompatibility or possibly a wiring error.

For software, you just need to make sure you can find a year/model combination where your HU pn and the BT module pn are connected on the same car. In my case, that was an '11 Versa so I knew I had the right parts.

A lot of the BT functions seem to actually traverse the CANBUS network, and my newer BOSE HU had a lot more CANBUS connection points than the old one. If you look carefully you'll see I had to connect the CANBUS (+/-) signals to TWO sets of pins on the big expansion connector.

Go ahead and post this to the end of my thread...it will help more people that way! You're not the only one to follow and I"m sure we'll get you fixed up!

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d0ugmac1_

Looking at the AV section of the FSM: I noticed a delta between the older BT unit (28383-3VY1A) and newer BT unit (28383-ZY71A):

The schematic diagram for the older BT unit shows pins 4 & 24 on one bus (branch) to ground, and 21, 22 & 27 on another bus to ground.

The schematic diagram for the newer BT unit shows 4, 23, & 24 on one bus to ground, and 20, 22, & 27 on another bus to connected to ground. Both busses are funnel to the same ground point.

I already have 4, 23, 24 soldered to each other. Should I solder 20, 22, 27 to each other?

any suggestion would be great, thanks.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
I think the grounding of those pins are like a crude DIP switch, where the internal DSP software behaviour is modified by which pins are grounded (ungrounded pins being pulled high internally). I noticed in my setup that the pins are different between the coupe and sedan, which I assumed was a modification to the microphone gain/processing or something similar based on the cabin size/placement.

I believe you are on the right path, basically look at the connections of the old module (your car) and compare them to the new module (donor car). If your HU and BT units play nice in a newer model, then they can play nice in an older model, especially if they cannot tell the difference because the wiring is identical.

What are the Nissan part numbers of the new units you are trying to use? and what models did they come from if known?

Before you go randomly soldering things....beep out what's coming in from the harness. For instance, connecting 3 pins together is only right...if those pins are also still grounded somehow. Likewise, you need to make sure when you swap 20 and 21, that 20 is no longer grounded, but 21, 22 and 27 still are. In my case, I pulled that wire because it was the harness that grounding the 'control pins' on the BT module. By extension, you will likely have to pull 20, but ensure that the other 3 are still grounded.
 

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thanks d0ug,

I'll do that troubleshooting when the kid brings the car back next month during spring break. Here's a couple screenshots of the gound points. The first one is of the older module, the second one is of the newer module:
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Discussion Starter #107
It's pretty easy to remove the BT module shielding can and expose the circuit board inside. You can leave the board plugged into the car's harness, and using a continuity tester (digital ohmeter, whatever) and verify pins 20-27 have the correct state...you'll notice that's 8 pins...8 bits, one byte...almost certainly control/setup settings so one module can be used in a variety of cars with a variety of HUs.

You'll also want to make sure your BT module wasn't manufactured long before/after the HU. I'd say within 11 months is ok, less being better. Better if HU is older than BT than other way around.
 

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Hi d0ugmac1. I've been following your recommendations on a lot of posts (thank you!), but now I need some extra advice.
I was thinking about splitting the aux input in my PY05F (for adding a hidden/hardwired BT receiver), then I remembered this post and thought about adding a second one.
I don't have satellite tuner, so I don't even see the menu in the headunit.
Would it be possible to activate the menu without the sat tuner physically present?
I found in the fsm that the pin 38 in the sat connector (hu side) is the activation signal, but tried pulling it down to different voltages and no result. (floating, no load is about 7.2v)
I'm considering trying to make a 50Hz oscillator to replicate the attached graph of the manual.

Am I missing something? Or it can only be added with the true Tx and Rx of the tuner? (no tricks)

Thank you!


Are you using your Sat radio? If not, you could hijack those input lines as a second AUX input to your HU...and hook that to some kind of cheap media/streaming box that you could insert your USB device to and stash in the ctr console...problem would be the user interface....which at best you could probably hijack the reverse cam analog video input to display whatever your media box spits out...but it will look crummy...but might be enough to navigate the menus with. Or get one of those cheap Bluetooth streaming audio devices and use either your existing AUX input, or the SAT hijack as discussed.
100770
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Discussion Starter #109
Hi Cesar! thanks for reaching out...this project was a fun one!

However, I think you might be out of luck on something as simple as a pull down though. The other 2 control signals (TX/RX) are using a serial communication protocol and the HU is probably smart enough to disable the SAT input altogether if it cannot read the basic system info from the sat radio controller. I'd source a used sat radio, just to fake out these signals, and you should be able to get just the module from the trunk for cheap, and then you can use the SAT inputs as you desire (ignore the harness, antenna etc and just hide the unit behind the current HU, with power/ground and the 3 contro lines hooked up). My solution was to use a dual input BT adapter from logitech...though not sure if that will work for your application.
 

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I had the PY05F, but didn't have rear cam.
So I got an android 9.0 from 'gina'. Couldn't be happier. With built in DTC reader.
 
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