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Super Moderator
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Riza, your on borrowed time bro..... Look at Chris's pic closely...lol
 

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Shaving My Shoulders
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Yeah deep down I know this :(

REALLY hoping to unload the car in the next year or so - makes it difficult to consider hefty maintenance fees (even tires) etc.
 

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I was thinking like that also, but I really don't want a car payment. And for the next car, I'd like to get my wife something nicer. But only after we don't have teens in the house.
 

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Shaving My Shoulders
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Yep. No car payment FTW. Happy wife FTMFW.

I have been VERY happy with the VQ. Even though it is an aged motor I won't hesitate to do it again. As a V8 is just about out of rhe question (fuel mileage) the VQ is an acceptable alternative.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Shaving My Shoulders
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:werd:

I have been trying to keep quiet about my next car...As mentioned it will be a year or so and all talk and no action - we all know how that shit rolls.

I have been OBSESSED with the G. Been perusing G37 Sedan Sports Package (big brakes, VLSD among other goodies) and want one so bad it hurts. The G is soooo much more of a driver's car than the Q50 and will still be sold at least for the 2015 MY under the Q40 nameplate - go figure.

Will have to be used as the Sport is no longer offered (not to mention price tag). Hopefully a nice CPO will rear up and show its self when I'm ready.

A G37 just seems to be to be the natural progression choice - Sports package or not. I live through you with the mod thing so we'll be even (G37 = ultimate mod anyway)...


EDIT:

So as not to completely jack the thread - I assume that Nissan has rectified the tensioner issues? Did the issue ever bleed over to RWD configs of same gen VQ's anyway?
 

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VQ'D Sleeper
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My brother had the typical timing chain rattle on his 2005 3.5. I told him about the access hole to the tensioner. He decided to have a mechanic replace the tensioner and see if the noise changed. It eliminated the timing chain rattle. No need for a new chain at this point, and much cheaper.
 

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Sorry to say Hal, but the problem is really NOT the tensioner. The rattle is from the tensioner being all the way extended and un able to put any more tension on the primary timing chain. If the mechanic didnt check the top of the main tensioner slack guide, your brother basically only put off the real, larger repair. I can almost guarantee you this. Google "$67 timing chain fix" lol they the op thought the samething and misled alot of others into thinking it was a true fix....all of the ones that did this had the rattle return later. The chains almost never have to be replaced, but once they have been in there for a while its hard to see the colored links that you need to clearly see in order to ensure timing is set correctly. I have now done 4 of these and though it gets easier because of the learning curve, I have yet to see one, one fixed by just replacing the main tensioner. I can almost do these in my sleep now, and thus have nightmares about this job...lmao. Besides, its what you cant see that will eventually cost even more down the road. The cover has to come off so that ALL of the guides can be inspected. ONLY the main tensioner needs to be replaced, but all of the other tensioner guides and shoes need to be replaced. The secondaries take a literal beating and wear far more than any other guides in the timing chain area. You dont have to remove the VC to replace the secondary tensioner shoes, as the tensioners wont need to be replaced, but you will have to remove all 3 chains.....
My brother had the typical timing chain rattle on his 2005 3.5. I told him about the access hole to the tensioner. He decided to have a mechanic replace the tensioner and see if the noise changed. It eliminated the timing chain rattle. No need for a new chain at this point, and much cheaper.
 

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Hello... I don't want to spend $100 in the flywheel lock ring tool, is it possible to simple keep the car in 1st gear(mt) so I don't have to pull the valve covers and hold the cams?
 

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I have the ring gear tool that you are refering to. I will ship it to you to use if you like for a small fee. $15.00 plus a security of $100.00 that I will promptly return after I get my tool back. Just an option. This tool def made a huge difference with my attack of this job. Fit perfect and allowed me to break all the bolts loose so that I didnt have to remove the valve covers. Once you have it in place, you leave it until the job is finished, and as long as you align all of the chains on theri marks, your timing will be dead on, and all you have to do is tighten them the same way as when you broke them loose. I did this repair before on a friends car using a flat head screw driver and I kid you not, this expensive assed tool makes it soooo much easier. The tech use a flat head screw driver to break the seals because it works. Dont buy the seal cutter tool...that is one you can and should do without. Save that money and spend it on parts that you WILL need.
Hello... I don't want to spend $100 in the flywheel lock ring tool, is it possible to simple keep the car in 1st gear(mt) so I don't have to pull the valve covers and hold the cams?
 

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Very nice. Glad to know your against buying the seal cutter, just seems like something that should not cost over $20. I'll just carefully use a flatblade screw driver.

Thank you for the offer, I will keep that in mind.

The tech from Nissan also told me he uses a flat blade screw driver to keep the timing chains from turning while he breaks the cam bolts loose. I just forgot to ask him where he wedges the flat tip. He moved and no longer works there so I can't ask him. Where would be a good place to do that?
 

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I have no idea as its not the chains you need to stop from turning, its the cams/cam gears. Maybe someone that has done/tried it that way will chime in and offer expert testimony as to how to do it. Cant imagine how you would be able to keep the crank and cam gears from turing with a flat head screwdriver.
 

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One more question.... Do you need j-50246 VQ TENSIONER SHOE INSTALLER? I hear most folks can simply pop the new shows on by hand, can anyone confirm that theory? That's another $70 tool. Thanks for the help !
 

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No you do not need it. Getting the shoes off is the hardest part because they are press fitted on, kinda like the way you button blue jeans with the snap....installing the shoes, all you have to do is place it over the tensioner, and press down until you feel and hear it seat.
 

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Sweet! Thanks a bunch, Lawrence, you have been a lot of help! Btw that's a badass SE R you have, and also an impressive, tasteful mod list.
 

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Thanks bro...these days its mostly stock. The car was sold, most of the mods were parted out, and then for some crazy reason, I bought it back. I dont think I will mod it again as I am pretty into the new car now.
Sweet! Thanks a bunch, Lawrence, you have been a lot of help! Btw that's a badass SE R you have, and also an impressive, tasteful mod list.
 

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I have to tackle this job this summer. Would it be easier to remove the whole bottom bracket to access the timing chain cover?
 

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Yes this is true CHris, however, after doing a few of these I find this method more risky and likely to turn the cams...it is far better to break all 4 of the cam bolts loose at the same time while the chains are still on. If you place the #1 cylinder at TDC, and do it this way, it will remove 99.99% of the doubt that you will be off a chain link mark.
You can hold the cams with a big adjustable wrench when breaking the cam bolts loose.
Bracket? I will tell you this...it is easier, though not necessary, to remove the upper oil pan also. Why? When you go to reinstall the front timing cover it is quite difficult to align it and keep the front cover gasket in place and seated properly. Its alot more work to remove the upper oil pan, but will guarantee no leaks when your done.
I have to tackle this job this summer. Would it be easier to remove the whole bottom bracket to access the timing chain cover?
 
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