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Super Moderator
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Mine started at about 83K.....
 

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Start The Show - Jet
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Yep I have it. lol
... what's so funny, Pal?!?! :devil

Wow 81K. Seems early to me (mine went at 108K - took it to 168K, which I in no way advocate).

May have missed it -are you going to try with motor in?

Good luck with all BPuff.
ROTFL! "which I in no way advocate..." Cracking me up.

Seems early to me, too, but then the car is 10 years old, now. Yep, going to try with motor in. I have friends with access to a cherry picker and a lift if necessary, but I'd prefer to keep things in the bay. Sure, it will be uncomfortable and cramped, but less work to assemble and reassemble in the end. Or at least, here's hoping... :grin

Mine started at about 83K.....
Good to know I'm not the only one.

Seriously...
 

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Start The Show - Jet
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Additional question for you fine folks. What could happen if this issue isn't corrected before Spring weather? We're getting into the cold time of the year, and even with a heated garage, things are still not as easy as in the Spring.

What could happen if I waited...? I know Riza went for 60k before fixing the issue, and Chris went for 30k... What's the worst if I wait another 10k?
 

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Speculation request now? lol Well THE worse is that the large chain could continue to grind against the chain slack guide, shaving off metal to circulate throughout your engine....though rare, the chain could break if it gets caught.....basically accelerated wear, which could require the need to buy the expensive cam gear sprockets. Or nothing at all. I drove mine for another 6K iirc before I bought all the parts required and some not required to fix it. :)
 

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Start The Show - Jet
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Speculation request now? lol Well THE worse is that the large chain could continue to grind against the chain slack guide, shaving off metal to circulate throughout your engine....though rare, the chain could break if it gets caught.....basically accelerated wear, which could require the need to buy the expensive cam gear sprockets. Or nothing at all. I drove mine for another 6K iirc before I bought all the parts required and some not required to fix it. :)
Ok, so nothing catastrophic, then. LOL!! :grin

I never fixed it. Unloaded it on the stealership with the issue :D :wall:
You're suck a d**k. I'd do that, too, but I love the car... Unlike some people. :devil


On a side note... would there be any benefit to upgrading the water pump or oil pump while in there? Again, I don't plan to run FI or super agressive cams anytime. I mean, I may eventually do a 75-100 wet shot and I may do JWT S2 cams if I can ever find a good deal on them and need a head job (hahahaha).
 

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Shaving My Shoulders
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:lol: Yeah leaving it was a dick-sucking move...I never really worried about it but the thought of catastrophic failure was never far. No secret though, I loved it too...Still miss it.
 

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Start The Show - Jet
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While I'm in there, should I just go ahead and swap in a Rev-Up oil pump? Seems cheap enough and I'd like to eventually bump my redline to 7500 after SSIM is done. I know it's a different topic, but I assume it's not much more work to swap that while the lower oil pan is off... just go ahead and pull the upper oil pan, too?

EDIT: Scratch that. 7500RPM is just too much work. Just did a quick search and read. Looks like 7200RPM is where I'll put rev limiter in my tune and then make sure to shift at 7000-7100K. Not worth the effort and cost for the extra 300-400RPM.

I'm thinking it's still worth swapping to the Rev-Up pump, though.
 

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Super Moderator
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Chris, have you noticed any difference in the car with the lower spring tension you mentioned? @Penguinchit
You know, at first, it seemed okay, but I eventually replaced it with OEM because it was never really "spot on" when compared to the old gear. Don't go cheap...That was my mistake.


Additional question for you fine folks. What could happen if this issue isn't corrected before Spring weather? We're getting into the cold time of the year, and even with a heated garage, things are still not as easy as in the Spring.

What could happen if I waited...? I know Riza went for 60k before fixing the issue, and Chris went for 30k... What's the worst if I wait another 10k?
I think it would be fine because of the oil filter. It's not going to shave off so much over a winter that it would be catastrophic.

While I'm in there, should I just go ahead and swap in a Rev-Up oil pump? Seems cheap enough and I'd like to eventually bump my redline to 7500 after SSIM is done. I know it's a different topic, but I assume it's not much more work to swap that while the lower oil pan is off... just go ahead and pull the upper oil pan, too?

EDIT: Scratch that. 7500RPM is just too much work. Just did a quick search and read. Looks like 7200RPM is where I'll put rev limiter in my tune and then make sure to shift at 7000-7100K. Not worth the effort and cost for the extra 300-400RPM.

I'm thinking it's still worth swapping to the Rev-Up pump, though.
Definitely do the water pump while you're in there. Mine was pretty caked and looked like it was pumping hard water because of all of the mineral buildup. I didn't do the oil pump because I didn't want to have to separate the upper oil pan and add another 10 hours. I don't know if it would have made a difference, but I doubt it. And I didn't have plans on further mods.

Hell, I never made It that far, Mine all started to rattle around 20K. Wards top 10 my ass
The Wards must've been because of a significant donation...
 

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lol , & the engine had no mileage on them . All new all good right ! ( Ward s )
 

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Would hate to either do it or have it done . Might be the case one day .
 

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Hey guys I have a 2002 Pathfinder with the VQ35DE, that I just bought. I know its different in some ways but I'm having a hell of a time finding information on how to tackle some of its issues.

I have the 02 Pathfinder FSM but honestly it amazes how little detail it has. I dont know if thats different with the Altima's.

I could really use some guidance though. To begin with:

I'm actually looking at the same kit from this seller (listed for the pathfinder though). You mentioned in al ater post that u'd do this job again 'but with the right parts' its been several years since you installed THESE parts, can you comment on how they've held up? I really only need like a year outta this truck but I really dont want to have to dive into it again within the next year. My pockets aren't deep enough for OEM, but I've heard good things about a few brands on rockauto as another alternative.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251537533314 this kit, according to the seller is all 'evergreen' branded... Taiwanese not Chinese. = $207

Also considering this: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5578761&cc=1431960&jsn=699 Enginetech Chain kit: $208
with this: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=948938&cc=1431960 Gates water Pump: $27
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5541174&cc=1431960 Enginetech Oil Pump: $80.89
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2651662&cc=1431960&jsn=702: Timing Cover Gasket Set: $15

Becareful Chris ordering such stuff like this off ebay. Last thing you want is to end up with cheaply engineered Chinese junk for such a critical fix/repair. You should call them directly and ask the country of origin on this set...at least it will provide peace of mind....unless it IS Chinese junk engineering crap.....lol
I'm trying to compile a list of everything I need to get this job done outside of the main parts. I did see the parts list on page 2 and that was helpful.

I know that I need a front timing cover gasket set. I've read a post about needing "2 o rings on the top side of the secondary tensioners." apparently they're needed when replacing those secondary tensioners but I haven't found it included with any of the kits and I'm having trouble finding part numbers for them. I dont even see it in any of the parts lists for this job that I've seen but wonder if it could be a Pathfinder specific thing.

Did you guys remember any kind of o-rings for those secondary tensioners? If so can you help me find a kit that includes them or part numbers?



LAst big question is what else needs to get replaced while in there? I mean I gotta take off the oil pan, so thats gonna need a new gasket... what about the upper oil pan, is there a gasket for that? I've read that some people replace the FRONT crankshaft seal while in there... how likely is it that I need to replace that? What other gaskets/seals will I need? I'm reading that some say you dont need to remove the valve covers to get to this, but some say you do. I'm not sure.


If anyone wants to hear MY video from the noises I'm trying to eliminate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EQ4ejwP8hk

SUV sounds like a Diesel.
 

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Super Moderator
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I'd say the kit is good enough to last a year, if not longer. The big difference in quality for me was the secondary tensioner springs. I'm sure oil pressure plays a big part into it, but the springs that came with the kit were very weak.
 

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I'd say the kit is good enough to last a year, if not longer. The big difference in quality for me was the secondary tensioner springs. I'm sure oil pressure plays a big part into it, but the springs that came with the kit were very weak.
Thanks for the reply... thats helpful.

Question, I'm studying the service manual right now.... How important is the ring gear stopper... did you use it? Are there any other makeshift ways to improvise? The tool itself is ~$130 and kinda breaks the bank on the project.
 
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