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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi! 2 years ago, i got a remote starter installed in my 2007 altima 3.5se. Everything seems to work fine until last winter. It was very cold. I started my car with the remote before leaving work. When driving home i noticed the heater was not running. All the lights where on but no air was coming out. I tought the blower motor was dead. After looking up on Google, i verifyed the blue relays behind the fuse box on the driver side. I interchanged those relay and started the car. Nothing worked. I replaced the relays to there original places and everything started working again. BUT, since then, when its cold outside, when i start the car, remotely or not, radio is the only thing thats working in the car. No lights in the cluster exept for the little yellow key light. I cant even shift to drive. I have to jiggle the fuse box for some time and then everything lights up and I can shift to drive and go. And when its VERY cold, its like the alternator does not recharge the battery and nothing works at all, the car run and eventually stall and i have to boost, unless i manage to move and jiggle the fuse box to get everything on. And when I start the car this way, the manual mode doesnt work...

Weird enough?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Weird and worrisome...this could leave you stranded. Which fuse box are you jiggling...driver knee left or the IPDM in the engine compartment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Driver left knee. This morning before going to work, i just stuck my hand in the hole and moved around all the blue relays behind the fuse box. The end right one is the one that cause the trouble. By moving it i can see my cluster light up and then go completely off. I guess there is a bad contact or something... the relay itself seems ok since it works once i play enough with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The strange thing is it only malfunctioned when its cold. Does it have something to do with the metal contraction/expantion with temperature?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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The strange thing is it only malfunctioned when its cold. Does it have something to do with the metal contraction/expantion with temperature?
Almost certainly, contraction or corrosion or cracked solder joint. You'll probably first want to remove the fuse panel and find out if there's something obvious in the harness or harness connector or fuse panel itself before proceeding. If it's just a dodgy solder joint or wire splice you can safely fix that yourself with suitable iron--but at least disconnect battery first if you can do in place please!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright! I chek it out this afternoon. Thanks for the tips, i'll let you know what is the outcome of it.
 

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Replace relay with a KNOWN working relay

As previously posted, it is very possible that you have corrosion or cracked solder joint --- However ---

First I would rule out a defective relay. The ONLY sure way is to REPLACE a suspected relay with a KNOWN working relay..Relays can and do fail under load. A relay may "test" ok with a meter, but still be defective. IF there is another exact type relay available, try switching places (check the markings / numbers).

Check cost on new relay from a parts store. IF expensive $25 or so -------
Try a recycle (Junk) yard and obtain several relays -- of ALL types for future use. Check the numbers on your own relays. The same relays are used in many model years. If you have several it is more likely most/all will not be defective. Cost aprox $2 / $4 each. Over time, relays fail and having replacements WILL come in handy.
:smile
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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6,365 Posts
As previously posted, it is very possible that you have corrosion or cracked solder joint --- However ---

First I would rule out a defective relay. The ONLY sure way is to REPLACE a suspected relay with a KNOWN working relay..Relays can and do fail under load. A relay may "test" ok with a meter, but still be defective. IF there is another exact type relay available, try switching places (check the markings / numbers).

Check cost on new relay from a parts store. IF expensive $25 or so -------
Try a recycle (Junk) yard and obtain several relays -- of ALL types for future use. Check the numbers on your own relays. The same relays are used in many model years. If you have several it is more likely most/all will not be defective. Cost aprox $2 / $4 each. Over time, relays fail and having replacements WILL come in handy.
:smile
Have a look at PG-15. Might be something as simple as the Ignition relay being loose in its socket. If not check the connectors behind the fuse block for proper seating too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, well, defenitly a loose relay. The exact one is the blue relay behind the fuse bose, driver side, left knee level. It is the most right one when you look at the fuse box from the front. Its kind of loose, i mean i can move it a little bit and i can see the lights goin on and of in the cluster. It seems to control the power to the heat/AC unit as well.

I tried to pull it out to inspect it, but its kinda stuck in there. And since i broke the plastic panel under the stearing while reaching for it (lol... not), i didnt want to break anything else. Do i need any kind of tool, or it is just some small plastic locks in those slots on top and bottom, unlockable with something like a flat screwdriver?

By the way thanks a lot to you guys, your help is much apriciated!
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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6,365 Posts
So we can confirm that it is the Ignition Relay 2 per PG-56 diagram. Looks like you might be able to swap with the rear defog relay for testing/peace of mind.

Here's what we're fighting with


Probably what the locking tabs look like


Where you can buy the relay.

Where you can buy a whole new fuse block (with 4 relays--one of 'em has to be good!) for $20.
 

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2010 2.5 SL
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588 Posts
I think you found your issue, but just in case;

I had a similar problem in my last car. That was due to broken solder connections at the climate control pins.
 
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