Altima reliability and common problems to expect?

logout · May 10, 2007

Hello,

Can I ask for opinions about Altima reliability? I am thinking about buying a used '96 Altima GXE with 96,000 miles on it. I had a look at it today and overall it looked fine. Gear shift (automatic) was smooth, tranny fluid color is bright red, brakes are fine, and acceleration was good. Some rust on the body but manageable.

I am planning to drive this car about 3 or 4 more years if I buy it. What are the common problems does Altima show as it gets older? (before reaching 140,000 miles?) What kinds of parts do I have to replace if I decide to buy this car? The seller said that battery was replaced several months ago and the Altima did not have any 100,000 miles maintenance schedule checkup yet.

The seller insists on having definitely at least $2500 but I am not so sure this is a good price... Mechanically the car looked nice but the interior was not clean at all.

Thank you in advance.

SexyGXE · May 24, 2007

The most important thing is, altimas are great cars and only need minor maintenance, which we are all here to help. Just remember to search.

Mrbizness1 · May 24, 2007

SX ED 101 · May 24, 2007

Mrbizness1 said:
Do you have the specific code numbers? There can be several different evap codes and knowing them can help isolate the problem. For about $20.00 you can het a Haynes repair book which will explain how to get the codes without buying a expensive scanner. Its really a simple job.

Ill get it scanned tomorrow for free at Advance Auto Parts. Ill write down the codes and bring them back to here. My check engine light has been off for the past 3 days now all of a sudden its back on. Seems like its about the same amount of time every time :banghead:

Mrbizness1 · May 24, 2007

SX ED 101 said:
Same 3 codes, knock sensor being the first and the next two being the evap emissions codes...

Do you have the specific code numbers? There can be several different evap codes and knowing them can help isolate the problem. For about $20.00 you can het a Haynes repair book which will explain how to get the codes without buying a expensive scanner. Its really a simple job.

SX ED 101 · May 24, 2007

Mrbizness1 said:
My Nissan receipt calls it #14935-54004 valve assembly list $116.03
it throws code 0705 evap system
and 0304 knock sensor. It bolts to the evap canister which is located behind the l/r wheel. It works off vacuum and also has an electrical connector. Its black. I will try and get a photo of it tommorrow.
Your SES light is on, but what code is it giving you?

Same 3 codes, knock sensor being the first and the next two being the evap emissions codes...

Mrbizness1 · May 23, 2007

SX ED 101 said:
Well, after about 100 miles of driving, the damn light came back on. Mrbizness, do you have the part number or the correct terminology for that part you replaced because I cant find it anywhere!

My Nissan receipt calls it #14935-54004 valve assembly list $116.03
it throws code 0705 evap system
and 0304 knock sensor. It bolts to the evap canister which is located behind the l/r wheel. It works off vacuum and also has an electrical connector. Its black. I will try and get a photo of it tommorrow.
Your SES light is on, but what code is it giving you?

SX ED 101 · May 23, 2007

Well, after about 100 miles of driving, the damn light came back on. Mrbizness, do you have the part number or the correct terminology for that part you replaced because I cant find it anywhere!

FastKA24DET · May 17, 2007

good news then.

Mrbizness1 · May 16, 2007

SX ED 101 said:
Welp, I took the solenoid off and sprayed it with some electronic cleaner and put it back in there. Went to Advance Auto Parts and they reset my ECU. Couple days later the light is still off, so Im going to knock on wood that it fixed my SES light problem. Thanks again!

That is great news. If the light stays off for 30+ miles then you should be OK.
I wonder how many good knock sensors were changed needlessly.

SX ED 101 · May 15, 2007

SX ED 101 said:
Thank you sir, I will check on this today and let you know what happens

Welp, I took the solenoid off and sprayed it with some electronic cleaner and put it back in there. Went to Advance Auto Parts and they reset my ECU. Couple days later the light is still off, so Im going to knock on wood that it fixed my SES light problem. Thanks again!

AceCombat · May 15, 2007

Sounds a litle pricey. I picked my 98 gxe with 300,000 kms on it for 500 bucks. 2 weeks later it cost me 1500 for the timing chain and tensioners. But after that I have not had a problem with it. It runs great passes alot of newer cars (hint) and is a blast to drive with a standard tranny. I know yours is a auto but they can still be fun. I just love the fact that 2nd gear will take me to 110kph at 5200 rpm. You get to see alot of civics and proteges in your rear view mirror. I live in a small town and every kid out here has a riced up car. Big spoilers and loud ass fart can mufflers. I wouldn't worry too much about the oil being dirty if it was a fleet car it had regular maintenence for the warranty to apply. One overdue oil cange is not going to kill the car. If you are that worried take it to your regular mechanic and get him to take a close look at it.

chawk · May 14, 2007

I also wanted to mention that the suspension components on both my altis went to shit after about 150,000. Everything from the tie rods and ball joints and rack went out at about the same time on my 97, and the 94 is having similar issues. All in all i would say that the alti's are very reliable when it comes to leaving you stranded or being able to start everyday, but they do tend to nickle and dime you, if you are interested in keeping it running in top shape.

SX ED 101 · May 12, 2007

Mrbizness1 said:
The purge solenoid (near the l/r wheel ) that is part of the EVAP system can cause the OBD II check engine code for the knock sensor also. Remove it from the rear canister and use a small screw driver to move the plunger. If it will not move replace it. On my Alty replacing this part eliminated the knock sensor code. As soon as I replaced the solenoid code 0705 went away and after about 30 miles of driving code 0304 for the knock sensor cleared and the light went out. The same thing happened to my Maxima but I changed the knock sensor first, then the purge solenoid. I probably wasted $175.00 for the part and labor.

Thank you sir, I will check on this today and let you know what happens

Mrbizness1 · May 12, 2007

SX ED 101 said:
Oh yea, the knock sensor throws check engine lights like crazy. Ive had two Altys, one first gen and one second gen do this.

The purge solenoid (near the l/r wheel ) that is part of the EVAP system can cause the OBD II check engine code for the knock sensor also. Remove it from the rear canister and use a small screw driver to move the plunger. If it will not move replace it. On my Alty replacing this part eliminated the knock sensor code. As soon as I replaced the solenoid code 0705 went away and after about 30 miles of driving code 0304 for the knock sensor cleared and the light went out. The same thing happened to my Maxima but I changed the knock sensor first, then the purge solenoid. I probably wasted $175.00 for the part and labor.

steven8439 · May 11, 2007

altima's are deffintly reliable. one problem they seem to have though is that all the lights come on( batterylight, brake light, etc.) but its usually always the alternator. but to me 2500 is a little pricy for a gxe.

niceguy · May 11, 2007

That was the original Tranny Pan Assassin speaking

If the oil was black in color, I probably wouldn't touch it....infrequent oil changes will cause the engine to burn oil down the road and who knows how the engine/car has been treated....?

Jeremy

Rick · May 11, 2007

I've owned a few first gens and have worked on all gens. 1st gens like to eat motor mounts and tranny mounts on the regular. It gets to be annoying. I suggest replacing the front engine mount by the radiator with a polyurethane mount. After I did that on mine, my motor mount and tranny mount lifespan was increased 10 fold. Occasionally on some the distributor takes a dump. The symptom is the car will just up and die or it will run like crap and not rev past a certain rpm. You can shut the car off for an hour or so and drive off like nothing is wrong, but it will happen again, and again. That is the most typical symptom I've experienced but also saw other people's just up and not start one morning and that's it. I usually put the distributor at the top of my troubleshooting list if there is a no spark condition. The stealerships will try to charge a ridiculous amount, I have had good luck finding them used for very cheap. The only other annoyance that pops into my head is the damn rear taillight wiring. I constantly have to tighten the screws for the connectors so they'll work right. That has been a problem on every first gen I've encountered. Oh yeah, the plastic radiator tanks tend to split around 100k on everyone I've owned. I don't know if it is because of the heat in AZ or if it is a common problem everywhere. I've had the top tank replaced on my original radiator twice. I should have just dropped the coin on a brass one, they cost about 75 dollars more. Half shafts go out like any fwd car, but they are very easy and cheap to replace. shops will charge 200-300 dollar typically, but I can do them in about 15 minutes a side with an impact.

I have a great deal of faith in them, they're fairly easy to work on when you get used to them and the engines are bulletproof if taken care of correctly. I've put over 200k on a couple KA's and the only one I blew was due to stupidity with my nitrous setup. (live and learn)

SX ED 101 · May 11, 2007

98-01 Altys have a problem with the master window switches going bad. Im in the process of finding one for mine right now and its like pulling teeth. Oh yea, the knock sensor throws check engine lights like crazy. Ive had two Altys, one first gen and one second gen do this.

rchpi · May 10, 2007

Well I have a feeling that your intake gasket will be leaking. Another thing that seemed to happen to me alot was the o2 and the noc sensors

logout · May 10, 2007

Yes. I could not understand why the seller did not clean the interior, let alone the exterior. One of the wheel caps was missing and the engine oil color was black. Probably I guess that's because the seller is a female college student who does not care much about mechanical things.

Anyway she keeps insisting that she must have at least $2500, when the the kbb price for good is $2600 and fair one is $2300. And she does not have any repair record or any plan for 100,000 mile maintenance schedule.

Anyway, I am still considering this car because she only drove it for 6 months and that's not a long time to damage a nice car into a junk. But the fact that she changed the spark plugs and wires (and battery!) after an engine hesitation problem might imply the used car dealer who sold the car to her had not done the proper maintenance which dealers usually do to get a better price.

I checked the car history today and it was a fleet vehicle until it gets 80,000 miles. That's another bad news but my test drive was good and the car felt pretty solid. So I am thinking about waiting her response back.

By the way, I purchased a carfax account today and I think I can check VIN number for other people here for free. Leave the VIN and e-mail address on this thread and I will forward the car history info back. Thank you so much for the great replies here.

Mrbizness1 · May 10, 2007

niceguy said:
Used Altimas are a dime a dozen so if you pass on it, there will be another, possibly better deal around the corner
If it's too much for you, then wait till you find one you can more easily afford to get....Jeremy

Agreed. There are plenty of good used ones around. I bought my 98 in 2001 with 112k. I now have 158k. I have replaced the alternator, plugs, purge solenoid, brakes and thermostat. Why couldn't the current owner clean the interior?, could be a indication of how the car was maintained. My car had a lot of miles for a 3 year old but it was immaculate in and out and the owner had kept a service record in back of the owners manual. It was serviced every 3500 miles. It uses no oil and has no leaks. It runs like a car with 50k miles.
Look around for more Altimas. good luck.

niceguy · May 10, 2007

Used Altimas are a dime a dozen so if you pass on it, there will be another, possibly better deal around the corner....Funny thing is, I see people asking over $3k for a 1st gen but also see many only asking $1700 maybe w/under 100k and good shape. Check the blue book value and see how it compares...

If it's too much for you, then wait till you find one you can more easily afford to get....

My '93 has 235k and I've never touched the tranny (never added or changed fluid), air still blows cold and aside from minor things here and there, it's been a great car for the last 6+ years....

Jeremy

realeztace · May 10, 2007

motormite distributor from partsamerica.com or ur local advance auto is classed as a brand new one and i have had no one problem after going thru 3 different remans. the motor might has been on car for almost a year and a half i would say with no issues and no leaks

bkal · May 10, 2007

Oil in the distributor happened to me at 130k miles.

A leaky intake manifold will cause a rough and constantly changing idle. The easiest way to to spray carb cleaner around the gasket, and if your idle changes, then you have a leak. It's not a perfect method and has been known to fail at a diagnosis. Like I said though, a leaky intake gasket does not go unnoticed.

To check the distributor, take off the cap and see if there is oil in the cap. Again, not a foolproof method. A distributor that has oil in it will be plagued by misfiring and stalling, eventually leading to not being able to start it. Replacement with an OEM distributor is recommended as most refub do not work well in the Altima.

joejanebillybob · May 10, 2007

Definitely agree with the distributor leaks. Had to pay out of my *** for that a couple months ago when my Alty wouldn't start

Be weary of the Alternator too. My alternator died this past weekend, for the first time apparently

My Alty is at 138k miles now! The oil distributor thing happened around 133k.

Altima reliability and common problems to expect?

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