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Electronic issues with brand new Rougue

892 views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Nathan RSC  
#1 ·
Dear all,

I just got a new Nissan Rogue, and after driving about 100 miles all the electronics of the car got messed up, even the speedometer wouldn’t work and I kept getting multiple codes and couldn’t even turn off the car, I left the car at the dealer, they removed the battery and put it back, deleted the codes and told me that if they could drive the car without having the codes coming back then I should be good to go, did anyone have such issue? Any advices?
 

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#9 ·
Hey, not trying to needle you. Just wanted your take on the term and I already realized it makes some sideways sort of sense. Like a screen freezeup or the BSOD on a laptop when software clashes or two things try to grab the same memory range or oldschool IRQ. It used to happen a LOT back when you only had a very few IRQs before software was devised to create virtual IRQs ro expand the adding of different equipment to the basic computer> Before that you had 'logic locks' left and right and you had to go and create free memory ranges or move IRQ devices around to get the new device working with whatever clashed with it.
 
#7 ·
What exactly is a logic lock? I build computers and have never heard of it. I of course have run into issues where a computer overlooks something written in software to reboot it and the next time it works fine and forever after. I call it vagaries of the electron world and usually not repeatable although it can be. When computers are made to learn with AI then they can learn bad as well as good and why 80% of your software is commonly protection rules against this thing or that from happening but still, sometimes it happens. Often a full power down forces those operating rules back front and center to remove corruption of instructions and take charge as intended. When software is used over and over it tends to get erratic, it can be physical RAM gates or drive locations or even the instruction may not error correct properly. A power off/on can often lay that back down nicely.
 
#8 ·
That is a great question. I am a little embarrassed realizing that that term may not even be real. I got it from a tech at a dealer when I was just starting out years ago. Basically it is when a computer module is doing something illogical or freezes up in a way that it is running but not doing what it is supposed to. Hard to explain. If it looks like everything ought to be working great, and there is no reason it should not, but it is not working. (Real technical I know). I stick to 12 volt only and hire out the software updates and reprogramming. You know a lot more about the software side of things it sounds like. I like your term vagaries of the electron world👍. Also that is a great description of how a power down/reboot can fix issues.
 
#6 ·
You are definitely right about poor battery connections doing the same thing. 👍 I'm not a first thing clean and tighten battery cables kind of tech though. I verify static and loaded voltage at the battery to get a basic check on condition. I don't like to disconnect the battery to perform a proper test until I have isolated or eliminated any other potential problems first. Then I do a proper voltage drop test on the negative and the positive side of the battery when any of these problems come up-before I even touch the battery cables. Unless it's a side post battery then usually you have to check voltage loaded and then clean/tighten the cables and check again. The rest of the system can then be voltage drop tested normally from the exposed battery cable terminals.
Nice to know what the problem was so you can be confident that the problem is fixed. I learned the hard way about poking around and trying things before taking measurements. I have disconnected the battery before on a job and when I hooked it up the problem was not manifesting. Did I fix it or is it intermittent?!
It is more likely to be a low power issue on this one. But there are other possibilities.
My customers car was definitely a logic lock issue. The PCM communicated normally but did not even see the start command from the push button start. No codes. Battery voltage healthy and no significant voltage drop. Powered down the system and immediately it started. No problems since.
 
#5 ·
That logic lock thing is way stretching things to me. The 'Had a customer...' example could easily have been a simple low power situation that resolved by scratching battery terminals while putting them back on. Both that and the OP could easily have been simple low power problems, they can make some of the weirdest issues show up. AND, the computer has even caught it, the 12 volt system error is screaming the power is low along with putting the other issues in with it.
 
#4 ·
It sounds like a logic lock issue. I've never seen it happen with the vehicle running though. But anytime I see a vehicle that produces illogical results that's almost always what it is. Example push a button and something happens that should not happen or there are no discernible faults in a system yet something won't operate in that system. The solution is to power down the system by touching both battery cables together or letting it sit overnight to power it down completely and drain any capacitors. It is akin to rebooting a desktop computer.
Had a customer a couple years ago that the vehicle would not start or crank. Everything else worked all the lights radio etc. There were no codes but also no communication with some of the modules.
Powered it down and reconnected the battery. It's been working fine with no issues ever since. It is possible the dealer was right. But might be good to document everything just in case. And while it is still under warranty I would not touch it if it happens again.