I have 40k miles on the car. This has happened 2 times now. Started it in the morning drove normal under 2k rpms for like 10 mins, car was fully warmed up and all. Then at a light I floored it on a right turn and got a little tire spin. I let go of the gas at 50 mph and the RPM was stuck at 5000 for 2-3 seconds and then came back down. (Was in drive not sport mode) Is this due to the CVT overheating or some issue like that?
RPMS getting stuck after letting go of gas?
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xnick101
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Yeah that's what I do.
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Well john.............That depends upon how you clean it. A throttle body is mechanical therefore cannot fail by means of simple cleaning. A TPS,IAC or a IAT can fail when someone sprays excessive amounts of cleaner. But the best way to clean a throttle body is open the butterfly wide and spray the cleaner onto a rag. Wipe the throttle body down,both sides. Now the second part of the cleaning involves 2 people. One to keep the engine RPM at 1500 and the other to spray cleaner into the throttle body. DO NOT choke the engine. This will NO where near harm an engine. We use to do this on just about every GM vehicle. But if the TPS is sticking the only way to know is with a scan tool and a DVOM. Everyday carb cleaner will do the trick.
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As I've read here and on other sites regarding throttle body cleaning. You absolutely do not touch the butterfly while cleaning. As a matter of fact I would just leave it alone, but if you really want to clean use recommended cleaner. Spray the butterfly but allow to air dry or use some compressed air to carefully dry it out. If you more the butterfly be prepared to send your altima to the dealer to have the throttle body recalibrate.
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It happens to my car sometimes when the roads are wet and i stab the gas. It has to do with the traction control. It does that to protect u from loosing conrtol and not shift into the next gear. Usually in a manual car if u have a Traction control button and the VDC button is on it will do that and if its off the it will allow to shift into the next gear if the tires are spining.
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Incorrect. I have done this at least 1000 times in my career and never an issue. Whatever you read was false.
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Yes you are incorrect. Certain Ford vehicles back in the early 90's had a coating. But there was also a label on the throttle body stating "Do not clean".
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Could you elaborate on exactly what damage can be caused by a car in the "off" position? You can open and close the throttle a million times with the car off. Even whe it is on and not cause any damage. Not sure what books or articles you guys read but it sounds like the Nation Inquirer. How do you think a tech finds out if the ECM is getting proper voltage from the TPS through all angles? I do cause I us to do it. I use to have to back probe the TPS wiring and manually open and close the throttle to verify stuff. NO DAMAGE OCCURS.
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Are you a nissan tech NAHybrid? There are numerous threads in the third gen forums about high idle problems resulting from cleaning the throttle body using a spray. I know this because it happened to me when firestone did it to my car. The Idle relearn procedure did not work and the throttle body had to be replaced. Not all electronic throttle bodies are the same and the ones nissan used in 3rd gen altimas and maximas did not respond well to cleaning. Do a search here for throttle body and p0507 code and see for yourself if you don't believe me.
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Hence the reasoning behind the car off john. Also if you have any common sense you remove whatever sensors such as the TPS. It is not rocket science. When you want to clean your rugs do you leave the furniture? I have seen previous threads but were very old. There is NOTHING at all wrong with cleaning your throttle body when performed properly. I did it on my NAH last month before I installed my K&N. Guess what..................Nothing happened. I was a GM tech for 20 years. I also worked on many other makes and models such as Nissans,Hondas,Acuras,VW,Mercedes,BMW,Fords, Chrysler's,Dodge,Jeep,Saab, Porsche,Volvo,Mitsubishi,Mack,John Deer.
Step one: Remove the air intake hose to gain access to the throttle plate.
Step two: Open the throttle plate using your fingers. It will only open one way.
Step three: While keeping the throttle plate open spray carb cleaner onto a rag and use that rag to clean the throttle plate surfaces.
Step four: Re-install air intake hoses and start the vehicle.
Step five: Allow vehicle to obtain operating temps.
Step six: Remove the crank case vent hose.
Step seven: With someone keeping the throttle at 1500 PRM spray the carb cleaner into the crank case vent hose opening and into the throttle body. Use about 1/2 the can and DO NOT CHOKE the engine.
Step eight:. Allow the engine to remain at 1500 RPM and re-install the vent hose
Step nine: Drive vehicle for approx 2 miles.
Step ten: Enjoy.
Where things go wrong is when some moron grabs a can of carb clean and sprays the entire can down into the throttle body. The cleaner gets inside all the sensors and could possibly short them out. I myself never saw this. Most of the time you end up with a very hard to start vehicle. Heck how do you think you diagnose a fuel pump? Spray crab clean into the throttle body and crank it over. If it starts you know you have a fuel issue. So now its time to check for proper ground and voltage at the fuel pump.
Step one: Remove the air intake hose to gain access to the throttle plate.
Step two: Open the throttle plate using your fingers. It will only open one way.
Step three: While keeping the throttle plate open spray carb cleaner onto a rag and use that rag to clean the throttle plate surfaces.
Step four: Re-install air intake hoses and start the vehicle.
Step five: Allow vehicle to obtain operating temps.
Step six: Remove the crank case vent hose.
Step seven: With someone keeping the throttle at 1500 PRM spray the carb cleaner into the crank case vent hose opening and into the throttle body. Use about 1/2 the can and DO NOT CHOKE the engine.
Step eight:. Allow the engine to remain at 1500 RPM and re-install the vent hose
Step nine: Drive vehicle for approx 2 miles.
Step ten: Enjoy.
Where things go wrong is when some moron grabs a can of carb clean and sprays the entire can down into the throttle body. The cleaner gets inside all the sensors and could possibly short them out. I myself never saw this. Most of the time you end up with a very hard to start vehicle. Heck how do you think you diagnose a fuel pump? Spray crab clean into the throttle body and crank it over. If it starts you know you have a fuel issue. So now its time to check for proper ground and voltage at the fuel pump.
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Firestone is where you went wrong. Midas,Firestone,Monroe..............None of those places have techs. The are all mechanics. There is a huge difference. In all my years as a tech I saw it all. Guys come in and out. Like a revolving door. I remember back in 1990 we hired this guy who was a so called "Master ASE Tech". Whatever. He had about $500 worth of tools. Anyone who is serious about the job has at least $25,000+ of tools. Myself before I retired had an estimated tool value of $50,000. But back to the story. They gave this guy a Suburban with no power under heavy acceleration. It took him over 4 hours to figure out the fuel filter was plugged. Air and fuel are the first things you always check. Then he over tightened greaseable wheel bearings after packing them and burned up the bearings and races. He worked one week and was fired.
FYI...............................I messed up my share of vehicles too so I am not perfect. Heck I forgot to pump the pedal after doing a 4WBJ and backed out of my bay into 3 stock units.
Back to the topic at hand...............If you feel as thought your throttle is sticking you need start off with the mechanical end. Remove the TPS and operate the throttle body plate. Does it move freely? Does it bind? Does it have too much side to side movement? If all those are good then you need to inspect the TPS and IAC. Lots of times the IAC can clog up and bind. Rarely does a TPS fail. Back in the late 80's and early 90's they did but not anymore really. If you can get a scan tool then with the key in the on position but then engine off slowly press the gas pedal down and watch the TPS readings on the scan tool. Watch that the voltage does not flicker or jump around too much. Inspect the TPS and IAC wiring for a proper pin fit. Manipulate the TPS and IAC harness with the engine idling. See if the idle jumps around. Trouble shooting a car is not as easy as 1,2,3.
FYI...............................I messed up my share of vehicles too so I am not perfect. Heck I forgot to pump the pedal after doing a 4WBJ and backed out of my bay into 3 stock units.
Back to the topic at hand...............If you feel as thought your throttle is sticking you need start off with the mechanical end. Remove the TPS and operate the throttle body plate. Does it move freely? Does it bind? Does it have too much side to side movement? If all those are good then you need to inspect the TPS and IAC. Lots of times the IAC can clog up and bind. Rarely does a TPS fail. Back in the late 80's and early 90's they did but not anymore really. If you can get a scan tool then with the key in the on position but then engine off slowly press the gas pedal down and watch the TPS readings on the scan tool. Watch that the voltage does not flicker or jump around too much. Inspect the TPS and IAC wiring for a proper pin fit. Manipulate the TPS and IAC harness with the engine idling. See if the idle jumps around. Trouble shooting a car is not as easy as 1,2,3.
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I believe what you are experiencing is an inherent "lag" caused by your car's engine computer and CVT computer in this particular situation. It can't read your mind and do EXACTLY what you want it to do. You have the throttle floored (or nearly floored), so the computers "think" you are going to need higher engine RPM's to support your spirited driving. When you let off the gas, the computers keep the engine RPM's up for a few moments, and keep the trans in the lower ratio, probably expecting you to keep the throttle down. You have to also remember it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to slow down and speed up, and for the CVT to adjust ratios. After a second of two of much less throttle input, the RPM's finally go down.
I've experienced this in my car, and I don't think it's a big deal. If you expect better control, the manual transmission would be better for you. There are certain performance shortcomings to be expected when you buy a car with an automatic/CVT transmission.
its hard to describe the sound.. just the engine running really loud when i accelerate, the rpm works harder.. i went to a local mechanic and he goes "its the pcv valve", never laid a finger on the vehicle ^_^ .. umm so im thinking about just taking it to Nissan or Aamco.. if it does happen to be the pcv valve id be happy b/c those things are pretty inexpensive to replace
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