Spoke with Nissan and they claim the Cooler Housing Filter is not serviceable and they do not list part numbers for the filter or o-ring. That is total beeswax... Mitsubishi uses the same filter and it is serviceable. MANY Mitsubishi and Nissan owners (Juke and others) replace this filter...

Anyway these are the part numbers for Filter and o-ring.

Nissan Part number for Cooler Housing Filter (this is the Filter Juke and others use) - Filter Assembly Oil Part 31726-1XF00
Mitsubishi part number for same Filter - 2824A006
Mitsubishi Cooler Housing O-Ring (Nissan does not have this available but it is the same that my Altima uses) = 2920A096

If you decide to replace the mesh strainer rather then clean it, and want to save some money, the predecessor to 31728-1XF03 is 31728-1XZ0D. The 31728-1XF03 is a different design then my original. The mesh is flat, no pleats, and the original mesh screen looks more durable. But I "think", hard to say for sure, the newer version has a finer filter mesh. Again, hard to say for certain just looking at them. I figure since its what the newer cars are using and given Nissans problematic cvt history, they changed it for the better.

 

Best and most useful 'hack' I've seen in a long time! Well done.

 

hack??? lol I am the one getting hacked The dealership guys kept telling me their is no cooler housing filter. When I proved them wrong they said its not serviceable and no parts are available. When I gave them the Mitsubishi part number and explained to them the Jute filter is the same, and many people service them, they paused. Then proceeded to tell me that some cars are serviceable.

 

"Some" are? Thats hilarous. You cant fix stupid...

 

"Some" other options for the Housing Cooler Filter. Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto sell the Nissan filter 31726-1XF00 as FK-403 and FK403. Nice of Nissan to inform me these are not serviceable.

JF011E Transmission - atspareparts.com

In the CVT RE0F10A (JF011E F1CJA) - 2 filters: one internal filter of the valve body - in the pan a closed metal coarse filter with a grid with a sampling tube (14mm, 21mm or 30mm - depending on the depth of the pan). Change this filter infrequently, along with the change of burned frictions and oil. The valve body filters differ only in the length of the oil intake for different depths of the pans. Non-interchangeable.

An additional external fine-finishing cartridge is located outside the CVT under the heat exchanger. An additional filter is very important, since it allows you to change the filter especially often (for CVTs), maintaining the purity of the oil, which in CVTs is critical for the long life of the transmission.

The metal filter is washed during capital repairs, but in the case of a burnt oil, its fine mesh is clogged with refractory resins from the adhesive layer of the friction linings. And in these cases, the valve body filter is also changed

 

Pics of the Cooler Housing Filter. 2010 2.5, 68,ooo miles with original NS-2, never flushed or drained. Several metal flakes in closeup pic. I saw only a few small pieces in the mesh filter.

Servicing the fine filter every 30k-60k miles seems reasonable given the condition of my filter. Their was not sludge or thick build up blocking the filter.

The filter is easy to change when doing a drain and fill or flush. 4 small bolts to remove cooler filter housing, 1 large bolt for inlet line and 1 small bolt holding inlet line bracket.


These are the parts necessary to change the fine filter. I reused the Cooling Housing o-ring since I needed to get the car put back together and Nissan does not have a part for it and Mitsubishi did not have one in stock.

- Fine Filter - Nissan 31726-1XF00 or Mitsubishi 2824A006
- Gasket/O-Ring for Cooling Filter Housing (Nissan does show the o-ring or filter in parts diagrams. They say it is not serviceable - pathetic!) - Mitsubishi 2920A096
- Crush Washers (return line to Cooling Filter Housing) - Nissan 21626-32U00

- Cooler Filter Housing - Torque bolts to 37 in. lbs.

 

I found this image and it is not a Crush Washer!



Altima 2010 2.5 S,

I have a QUESTION.... Is it necessary to remove the line (which I'm guessing is that thing attached to the cooler with that BLACK DONUT looking trunion?) So.... If you remove the 4 bolts that attach the cooler to the case, is it possible to R&R the paper filter cartridge without taking that line off that seems to be the return line (or is the incoming line?) ??

I am also guessing that is why you listed what you are calling out as CRUSH WASHERS ? If I need to remove that DONUT and the line I am sure I will need the Crush Washers as they are evidently "the seals" for that connection onthe face of the coooler housing.

BTW... In locating the part you listed as Nissan Part 21626-32U00 --- It is nothing like those cooper looking washers we are calling "crush washers"? This is a paper looking gasket or seal that goes to some plate thingy? See the screenshot image.

Do you have the part number for those crush washers (if I need them)? Should I buy 2 or 4 if I need them?

CORRECTION! You have the Correct PART Number for the Washer Seals. I checked other sites and see that they are the Crush Washers/Seals as you had listed! Mybad! But it goes to show that these dealers often get it wrong -- not only at the shop... but when they place things on line! Boy what happened to the old days when the parts guys was the best man in the shop?

I even found the crush washers on ebay of all places! Here is the sceeen shots...

Please let me hear from you... Thanks!:grin

 

Thank you for the detailed post.

You attached an image for the paper filter housing, from what position did you take that image? And how do you yiu access the filter housing?

I think I located it's place yesterday (from underneath the car) but I'm not 100% sure that was it.

 

unfortunately this is an old post so there may be no reply from original poster (though i hope so, its a great post )

i am doing the same thing with cvt fluid change and want to do all the filters as well so i will keep you posted .....

 

today i dropped the pan and put innthe new filter(1 of 2) There was about 5 qrts in there..... didn't se much except a dark grey sludge stuck to the magnet that are attached to the pan.....so yes magnets do work..... of course i added 5 quarts of fluid.

also i removed and replaced filter number 2 .... i can see why they say it's not serviceable its a pain in the a$$ to get to ....it is in the front attached to the transmission with the 4 bolts facing the passenger side. the top 2 are somwhat tricky to get to especially the inside one.

tomorrow i am going to disconnect the line that goes to the radiator and by starting the car, leaving it in park the remaining transmission fluidshould come out. like the video below.

below is the first post in the above video and between the original poster of this thread, the video, and the below conments...it pretty much covers a complete fluid and filter change in a nissan cvt transmission 2007 to 2012

from the above youtube video....
Good step-by-step video for the novice. it's full of details, info and easy to follow. On the fluid, NS-2 is the only option. There is a controversy between the NS-2 Nissan v aftermarket which has to do with whether full-synthetic aftermarkets are suitable. It is currently thought that they are harmful. I found a Japanese CVT fluid maker (eBay) that has NS2 and NS3 for like $8qt. That's the way to go (if not using the more expensive Nissan brand).
The process of draining the old fluid is best done by draining the pan, first. There are 7.8 qts total in the CVT for 2007-09 Altimas w 2.5 (Jatco RE0F10A) and the two areas that hold the most are the pan and the torque converter. We can get nearly 4qts out by draining the pan, first, without even having to start the car (in fact, you drain the pan with a warm tranny but engine off.)
Once your pan is drained, replace the exact amount of fluid you drained from pan, using new fluid poured in through the filler/dipstick tube. Now, using the set-up Gus shows here, you can continue the flushing-out of the old fluid with little mixing between old and new, as the new is picked up from pan, fed through pressurized chambers and pushes the old out. You will start to notice a radical color change (if your old fluid is dirty/dark) by the end of the seventh qt.
Set up your drain system (just like Gus shows here) and make sure you can see the liquid coming out. Proceed to drain out 2 to 3 qts. at-a-time, by turning engine on-off as shown. Make sure you measure what comes out, and put back the same amount each time. The transmission will now pick up the fresh, new fluid from pan and distribute it, pushing all the old out in front of it. After 8-9 qts you should have nothing but new fluid coming out. Stop there. Reconnect your hoses and go for easy 15min warm-up test drive. Take a dip stick reading while hot. Make sure you leave exactly 7.8 qts in - don't overfill. (((The tranny has to be hot to get accurate fluid read. The cold read makes it seem like its overfilled.))) Your tranny is flushed.
Also, these trannys have a screen filter/pick-up and an in-line cooler fluid filter, accessible through round capped compartment on LH of tranny (front on Altimas) with the four hex bolts and the shorter metal pressure line coming out of it. These should be inspected for clogging, replaced -- especially if you're nearing 100k miles. There are suitable aftermarket replacements. If you're gonna go that extra step, then, drain pan, remove pan and remove filter cap (you'll need pan gasket and O-ring for filter compartment) and change these out before doing flush. I can find NO video on how to do this, nor is it in the TM section of the FSM. I'm going to try to make one and post a link here. I think your post could help many in the dark as to what to do when they're faced w these problems. The dealership wont work on them except measure/evaluate fluid and change it.
These transmissions are great. The problem is that the consumer has been falsely led to believe that there is no maintenance on them. Nissan recommends fluid check every 30k (if you don't have that on record, it voids tranny warranty). They have a way of analyzing the amount of suspended particles in the fluid to determine whether it should be changed or not. If the fluid is old, 90-100k, it begins to have too many particles which clog the valve body and solenoids. This causes the hard shifts and shakes known to be associated with these rascals. Good Luck.

 

Thanks for the writeup. I had a new transmission put in around 10k miles ago. It ran fine for awhile and started to whine and hesitate again. So I took it to the dreaded dealership and was going to have the fluid changed but they said it seemed like it was the engine, when taking off from a stop there wasn't much power like it was in high gear, and to do a tuneup. Clean the throttle body etc. So I did along with the usual, plugs and whatnot and I also changed the fluid myself. It seemed to run better, no whining and better takeoff but it's starting to act up again and it seems like it only does it when on a long drive, say 45 mins to an hour. Not the whining just no power taking off or it's bogged down.

So I changed the filter and as you can see in the pleats there's a lot of shavings. I'm going to change the fluid again and hopefully it will help.

 

not sure that's related miht wnat to make sure at the cost of the fluid in this car.....

fwiw there is much easier access to the second filter that i cursed at a bit.... remove the air intake port (its 2 10mm bolts above the radiator) and its outta there then just go in from the top ......MUCH easier.

 

Thanks for the tip. That top bolt on the housing was a pain for sure.

 

I'm in the middle of replacing both filters. I couldn't find the paper filter housing, so being the idiot I am, I took out the cvt oil pump. (And in order to remove one of the bolts, I removed everything in the way. Battery, battery tray frame, ECM and TCM, wire bundles, CVT dip stick).

Does the oil pump just bolt back into place or do I have to do something special to align the teeth with anything maybe?

The thing I took out looks like an oil pump, it sits high on the cvt from the drivers side. It has a wire connected to it. See the attached image, I drew an arrow to the round cylindrical housing and another arrow to the bottom bolt I had removed.

I will post what I did with pictures tomorrow hopefully so people in the future don't have to keep looking for the damn thing.

And BTW, the FSM doesn't mention anything at all about any of this, not the filters nor the pump.

Also btw, Fukc that top bolt, I'm already worried about screwing it back in. And F the left bolt too.

 

unfortunately i don't knowbut there is no need for all that for the outside filter the two bottom bolts go underneath for the two top take the air intake shroud off and go atrem from the top....... wish i could be of more help....

 

...

 

Thank you, you were very helpful but I'm an idiot. You said in your reply about the "second paper filter" that the housing had 4 bolts and where it's located. I didn't pay attention to that and I lost hours working on the pump.

Anyway I finished the job today, next time I do it it will be much easier and faster.

For people of the future, here's a photo of the paper filter housing; located on the passenger side of the cvt way down there. You can identify it by it's shape in that general location, by the pipe fitting that would be facing forward, and by it's proximity to the cvt oil pan (removed in the picture as you can see the valve body exposed).

I'll also attach a photo of both old (oem) and new (Mitsubishi) paper filters.

The filter housing recommended in the first post of this thread was way too large and I had to use the old one.

I replaced the metal mesh filter o-ring too, just because I have an o-ring assortment, there's no reason not to.

I bolted both the pump and paper filter housings without "gasket maker" with no leaks, yet anyway.

So all is good.

 

Found More GREAT Info on Tranny Filter 2824A006 R&R

Gee! :surprise
Once you start digging into something on the internet you just keep finding more and more great information from guys who not only discuss the topics ... But ALSO provide great HOW-TO's with great photos!

I found another Forum discussion on the removal and replacement of the "Fine Filter" (Mitsubishi part #2824A006 fiber filter) on the CVT Transmission!

The forum is mostly about the Outlander CVT maintenance but the CVT Transmission looks to be the same (or very close to the same) and uses the same Mitsubishi "Fine (fiber) Filter" under the Heat Exchanger/Battery Tray.

Here is that Forum Link: https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/m...shi-outlander-10/information-about-maintenance-outlander-cvt-2014-2016-a-50085/

The great thing is the pictures really show how to "get to" the filter housing and remove the four bolts, replace the filter and O-Ring from the engine bay. :grin

Also you can buy the Filter + ORing + Fluid from Amazon (link: https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Fluid...?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1543470125&sr=1-4&keywords=Filter+Mitsubishi+2824A006

And you can get the "STRAINER-FILTER" at a Nissan Dealer (the "mesh filter" that is inside the trans pan Note the OEM part number:31728-1XZ0D has to my best guess - been superceded by:31728-1XF03
OR from this site: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-oil-strainer~31728-1xz0d.html Nissan Part No.: 31728-1XZ0D NOTICE THIS SAYS: To check and make sure it fits your vehicle?

NOW... This one says it is for my 2010 Altima 2.5S: Nissan Part No.: 31728-1XF03
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/par...parts/nissan-strainer-assy-oil~31728-1xf03.html?Vin=1N4AL2AP1AN400940&Filter=()

PLUS!! You can get the Pan Gasket + New Bolts + Mesh Filter + Fluid Kit from Amazon (link: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Niss...1543466147&sr=1-1&keywords=genuine+nissan+oem+cvt+maintenance+kit+nissan+altima )

There are other sites with these parts available -- perhaps for less money, I am just showing these links to give you an idea of what the parts are and how to locate them.


So for now, I hope this helps add to this great THREAD on the CVT Transmission Maintenance/Fluid/Filter/Changes

Blessings! :angel

 

When I replaced my fluid and filter, the dealer told me they can't get the mesh filter in the pan. No prob, I just cleaned it out real well.

But they tried selling me the paper filter and I told them that was the wrong one. I had the old one with me and I showed it to them.

My "external" filter looks like the metal canister filter with two metal tubes coming out the top. Just like the one pictured in the first post.

My car is the v6 model, so I don't know if that matters? And I never noticed/looked to see if my trans had the paper filter/cover.

Does my car have 3 filters?

 

V6 Tranny Filters and Flushing Trans Fluid on CVT's

I am sorry I do not know if you have (3) filters... I am new to this thread and just learning myself here.

Question, did you do the work yourself? Were you able to drain most of the old fluid? If so, what method did you use to drain and push out the old oil? How many miles did you have on the oil?

My 2010 has 102K and I doubt if the tranny was ever serviced? I really want to get the service done and replace the filters (which I think are just two the mesh filter inside the pan and the cooler filter under the Air Box/BatteryTray at the top of the CVT).

I am also pretty sure I am going to buy a Dorman Trans Pan with the drain plug and try to change my oil and filters more frequently... i.e. 25 or 30K miles.

I really would like to get more feedback about having it professionally "flushed" ?? I hear too many cons when the milage is high of doing a FLUSH on the CVT? I need to check the dipstick and see what the fluid looks and smells like --- 1st Thing tomorrow (if it warms up a bit) -- (been cold here!)

If anyone has any coments or suggestions... I SURE WILL APPRECIATE THEM! :smile

 

I did do the work myself and was able to get about 7qts out I believe. I did have a car lift to use and that particular lift allows you to tilt the car on the lift. By tilting the drivers side down/passengers side up, I got a good amount of extra fluid out. You could try this with a floor jack and jack stands. Lift the passengers side up and let it drain. I also removed the transmission fluid cooler lines and flushed the cooler out with "Kooler Kleen" by Lube Gard and then compressed air. I probably got about 1qt out of the cooler, and an additional 1qt from tilting the car. I think by tilting the car it allowed some extra fluid to drain out of the torque converter. Thats where most of the fluid is still hiding when you drop the pan.

 

Two CVT Trans Filters

1FatCat,

Thanks for the reply. Your method of trying to get as much old fluid out as possible is creative -- yet sounds very effective! KUDOS!

I really need to get after this and get my fluid and filter changes done. I have nearly 102,300 miles on my 2010 2.5 with the CVT, and I bought the car used with 86K miles on it. (I wish I would have done the changes back then! -- hindsight is 20/20 they say?)

My biggest problem is I don't have a place to work on anything! I am trying to convince a buddy to let me use his garage and give me a hand... I pray he says 'OK' soon!

The other thing I need to post about on this board is to ask if anyone knows who sells a Transmisson Pan with a drain plug for my particular 2010 Altima 2.5S? I wrote Dorman an email since I did not find one on thier web site, hopefully they will email me back? Not sure who else may make them or what other year make model would be an interchange? So I need to post that out there.

What year is your year and model is your car?

Thanks again.... Keep posting we need all the help we can get down here in KY!
Blessings! Richard in KY:laugh

 

Mine is a 2008 Altima SE with the 3.5L V6.....and 202,xxx miles. Still runs and drives great....except for a bit of a transmission problem

If I drive it nice (no more than 1/4 throttle) it works great. If I drive more aggressively (1/2 throttle or more) the transmission will sometimes go into limp mode for a few seconds and then works fine again.

I may have a bad stepper motor in the trans. One of these days I am going to replace it. I will post on the forum when I replace it and let everyone know if it cured my issues or not. It may be a while before I do this.

 

I just posted more on the CVT Filter/Fluid Service (see my post)

1FatCat

Yes, I hope to be able to get the fluid and filters done SOON! I just posted a rather long post about my doing a search today for the fluid, filters, O-rings needed to do the R&R. I will just copy and paste it here for others who may be looking at the CVT topic we have going here!

I admit I was unaware of the potential issues with the CVT transmission. And I also admit, as I did in another post, that I'm now kicking myself a bit for not doing a maintenance on the transmission when I bought the car, when it had just a little over 80K on it. As they say hindsight is 20/20 and can reach up and kiss you on the backside.

I've only had one vehicle (a F-350, 7.3 Turbo diesel) that had a transmission go bad. It was a nightmare, replaced the transmission and sold the truck, lost a ton of money in the long run. And in that case, I also discovered that those transmission were notorious for "puking"!

The only solace to this "caveat emptor", is that I do not drive all that much these days and now that I know and the warning flags have been made known to me, I will just rent a car for long trips if I need to make any. My daily driving is about 5 miles or less a day.

That being said, I am still going to go ahead and do the fluid/flush/filter job and pray I can make it last.

The things on my shopping list today are the two filters, the pan gasket, and the Nissan CVT Trans NS2 Fluid. I found a case of 12 on Amazon for $179.00 shipped free. (I think that is the best deal I can find).

DANG! I have a QUESTION! (but no problem -- I am 100% sure I can get the right solution here!)
OK... I discovered an issue I hope you can clear up for me?

1) Shopping for the pan gasket and I see there are TWO part numbers? On the Official Nissan Parts list the trans pan gasket is called out as: "Gasket - Nissan (31397-1XF0D)" Sellling for $10.76 here: https://www.worldoemparts.com/world...rts.com/worldpartsnissan/oem-parts/nissan-gasket-313971xf0d/?c=bT0xJmE9bmlzc2Fu NOTE: This part number replaces the old number:31397-1XF0B.

2) The "ISSUE" I was having is finding the MESH Filter that bolts to the bottom of the valve body inside the pan? Seems Nissan may have decided that the 2010 is a NON-SERVICABLE in regards to the CVT Transmission?* (SEE MY NOTE IN 4 and 5 BELOW)

3):surprise OK ...At the same link (as in 1 above), I put in the part number 31726-1XF03, I got this = "This part does not fit the vehicle you selected" (with my VIN Number as part of the search criteria) So... the search continued to find the Trans MESH Filter and I think I did at another NISSAN site --- see next.

4) OK... the NISSAN PART NUMBER 31728-1XZ0A is the MESH Filter we are looking for! However... It has been superdeeded and replaced by NISSAN PART NUMBER 31728-1XF03 Note: both parts are still available on this link: NISSANPARTSDEAL.COM So... My solution became buying both the Pan Gasket 313971XFOD, and the MESH Filter 31728-1XF03 at the same time from NISSANPARTSDEAL.COM: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com

4-A) Make sure you also get the O-Ring for the MESH filter/strainer! Nissan Part No.: 31728-1XF03 (or it also is listed as: 31526-1XZ0C --- Both fit my VIN)

5) :wink OK... Now onto the Paper Filter Search! NOTE: For 1st time viewers -- there is a paper filter (and O-ring) in the warmer/cooler assembly where the engine coolant flows that can be replaced (Mitsbishi CVT part # 2824A006 and o-ring # 2920A096). See Photos. Note that there is a NISSAN Part shown in the photo next to the Mitsubishi Part - they are the same.

6):devil So the Devil trys again! OK... I put in the part number 31726-1XF00 (for the Paper Filter) on the search bar at NISSANPARTSDEAL.COM and guess what happened? Yep, it says: "This part does not fit the vehicle you selected" HOWEVER... Over on the site I listed in #1 above I did not get the error message on this filter?) WTH??

7) What a nightmare! Then I am given the option from NISSSAN PARTS DEAL to add it to the cart anyways? So I did cost=$9.18.

8) OK here is the wrap-up ----

A) If you use NISSANPARTSDEAL.COM you can order all of the parts I needed (the pan gasket, the strainer, strainer O-ring, & paper filter)
a) Pan Gasket - Part No.: 31397-1XF0D cost: $11.02
b) MESH Screen Filter (aka Strainer) - Part No.: 31728-1XF03 cost: $45.86
c) Paper Filter Cartridge - Part No.: 31726-1XF00 cost: $9.18
d) O-ring for MESH Filter - Nissan Part No.: 31526-1XZ0C cost:$2.05 (it is also listed as 31526-1XG0A selling for $1.35)
e) O-ring for Paper Filter - I have made inquiry to see if there is one molded onto the filter? MOST HAVE THE BUILT IN SEALS
f) O-Ring for Warmer/Cooler Housing (at face plate?) STILL TRYING TO LOCATE? SEE UPDATE BELOW!

B) Same parts at World Parts NISSAN https://www.worldoemparts.com
a) Pan Gasket - Part No.: 31397-1XF0D cost: $10.76
b) MESH Screen Filter (aka Strainer) - Part No.: 31728-1XF03 cost: $42.53
c) Paper Filter Cartridge - Part No.: 31726-1XF00 cost: $8.95
d) O-ring for MESH Filter - Strainer Seal - Nissan -31526-1XZ0C cost:$2.06 (World Parts also has 31526-1XG0A - sells for $1.36)
e) O-ring for Paper Filter - I have made inquiry to see if there is one molded onto the filter MOST HAVE THE BUILT IN SEALS
f) O-Ring for Warmer/Cooler Housing (at face plate?) STILL TRYING TO LOCATE? SEE UPDATE BELOW!

*I found that Amazon is selling NEW "UPGRADED"Transmission warmer/coolers with O-Rings that have 4 hose ports instead of 2 like the OE ones? (link: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Tra...e&ie=UTF8&qid=1543709700&sr=1-6&keywords=New+CVT+Transmission+Oil+Cooler+O-Ring

*But all I am trying to find is the housing O-Ring just to be safe and not sorry when I remove the cooler to R&R the paper filter! SEE UPDATE BELOW!

UPDATE! Corrections re: "Cooler Housing/Filter/O-Ring Part numbers & Sources"

Updated 12/6/18

I finally verified the location and type of Transmission COOLER (aka warmer/cooler aka heat exchanger) I have on my 2010 2.5 CVT. See the photos here.

The left hand picture shows the type of housing on the RE0F10A CVT that I verified was my trans using this transmission site (allows you to find the tranny number) for your make/model/year: https://www.wittrans.com/parts

The center photo points out the Housing, Filter and where it is located on my trans. The 3rd photo on the right, is a parts locator diagram for the RE0F10A on the same site: https://www.wittrans.com/parts?type=RE0F10A.

Lastly I am thankful to 1fatcat who sent me the link --- Because it looks like they have the correct O-Ring for the housing! Here is the link for the O-Ring *below: (They sell the O-ring as part #212326A -- top row 3, third from the left)
https://www.wittrans.com/parts?&typ...otPictured=1&categoryNumber=20&category=GASKETS, O-RINGS, AND RUBBER COMPONENTS

One last part you may need are the Crush Washers (seals for the inlet line bolted to the housing) They are Nissan part #21626-32U00
Update complete...


OK I have gone on long enough --- I hope this helps someone by and by!:wink

 

Rich,

Don't panic. 2010's are one of the years with the doubled transmission warranty...you still have 2 yrs/ 20Kmi on Nissan's dime if anything goes wrong.

https://owners.nissanusa.com/content/techpub/warranty/2010_N_WIB.pdf

 

My goodness! Where did you see that?

SAY WHAT??? Where does it say that?

Strange thing here... I opened my 2010 warranty book .... Look here of the picture of the same page (1) ?? It shows someone inked in LIFETIME (underlined).... Not sure who did this? Seems to be something the dealer may have done?

So where are you saying the MILAGE is doubled from 60 to 120K???

And if you look at page 4 and 5 it elaborates on the POWERTRAIN COVERAGE

However I do not see where it is you are referring to? Help me out here...:|

Thanks Doug!

 

IN REGARDS TO THE VERY FIRST POST ON THIS THREAD BY Altima S 2010...

You got ALMOST all of the old fluid out if you say you were able to get 6-1/2 quarts out! That is impressive. The TM for the 2010 CVT on the 2.5L has the fluid capacity shown as 7-3/4 quarts. So you only had a little over a quart left if any at all depending on the level that was there before your began to suck it out and dropped the pan!

 

Read the cover of the PDF I linked to above. The white text box on p.1 of the PDF.

 

120K Warranty? AND I AM EITHER BLIND OR CAN'T SEE!

Doug,

Per your reply about the PDF of the warranty book...
I see that... But that same extra note is NOT on my 2010 Altima Warranty Booklet?? Not sure if my VIN would be covered under that? How would I be able to verify that? Would a dealer have that information?

ON ANOTHER HUGE NOTE.... I pulled out the Air Box and began looking for the COOLER! I swear I can't find it?

In all my digging into this about the paper filter/cooler change, I seem to be seeing several versions of cooler diagrams. Some look to be like photo #1 here below...

Or like photo #2 (which was posted by Altima S 2010 ?) I saw this same cooler style on page 48 of the AAMCO Tech Bulletin Site here: http://aamcoftp.com/sites/aamcotech/assets/cvt-manual_cvt-manual.pdf I took a screen shot and it is here as Cooler photo #3 --- #3 Looks like the same thing 1fatcat posted?

I guess I may have to take the battery and all that stuff under it to really check and see if there is a cooler there? MY QUESTIONs

1) Is it poosible that some of these CVT's don't have the Warmer/Cooler/Heat Exchangers?
2) If it is like the style in pictures 2 and 3, then it looks like there is a hard connector (black round donut) which I am thinking is the fluid line?
3) Altima S 2010 also made mention of having to buy "Crush Washers" which I am guessing are placed on each side of the "donut" as the seals?
4) Can you confirm or discount any of this re the 2010 2.5L with CVT?
5) When I was on the Jatco forum of ATSCG (site link:ATSG - Automatic Transmission Service Group ) And I put in my make model and year it comes up with these (3) possible trannys: "Transmission(s): JF011E (RE0F10A) and (RE0F01H) HOW IS THAT FOR CONFUSION?

OK enough for now... I will have to be patient I guess and we will figure this out sooner or later! :wink

 

Thanks for the answers re: Crush Washers

Altima S 2010

Believe me I certainly understand about "many projects and months ago..." I can't remember what I did yesterday let alone several projects ago!

I'm reading and re-reading and doing a lot of web searches on this trying to get it all figured out so I get the right parts on hand and not end up being stuck in the middle of doing the fluid/filter changes.

As for the Crush Washer (Tube Seals - I think they called them on one dealer page), They are like $0.75 so I might as well get (4) ?

From the close up picture, it looks like there is one for the bolt and another one for the trunion fitting (I call the donut)? I am guessing that one line goes into the face of the filter housing and the other line goes to the CVT case as a return line? So I may not neeed to remove the one line if it is not leaking and it is attached to the Case of the CVT?

Hope this makes sense? Anyhow, thanks for ALL the help. The only thinkg I am trying to still locate is the O-ring for the Cooler Housing. I am getting closer but still have to nail it down with the sellers.

Thanks again! Richard:wink

 

Altima S 2010

Believe me I certainly understand about "many projects and months ago..." I can't remember what I did yesterday let alone several projects ago!

I'm reading and re-reading and doing a lot of web searches on this trying to get it all figured out so I get the right parts on hand and not end up being stuck in the middle of doing the fluid/filter changes.

As for the Crush Washer (Tube Seals - I think they called them on one dealer page), They are like $0.75 so I might as well get (4) ?

From the close up picture, it looks like there is one for the bolt and another one for the trunion fitting (I call the donut)? I am guessing that one line goes into the face of the filter housing and the other line goes to the CVT case as a return line? So I may not neeed to remove the one line if it is not leaking and it is attached to the Case of the CVT?

Hope this makes sense? Anyhow, thanks for ALL the help. The only thinkg I am trying to still locate is the O-ring for the Cooler Housing. I am getting closer but still have to nail it down with the sellers.

Thanks again! Richard:wink

Rich i'm confused myself. I have 2014 nissan altima s. Newer generation. Which website did u use to determine paper cvt filter? are cvts in 2010 different then 2014?

I tried nissanpartsdeal but this is contradiction amazon site

It lists this but ebay list this as maxima and murano filter not altima
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-filter-assy-oil-govenor~31726-28x0a.html?Make=Nissan&Model=Altima&Year=2014&Submodel=Sedan&Filter=(2=QR25DE;3=25S;4=CVT%2fQR25)&Location=torque-converter-housing-case,,31726M

while amazon list this as all 2007 and up

https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-31726-1XF00-RE0F10A-JF011E-CVT/dp/B07CFS33PH

 

Yes, the tin can is sealed. That is the external filter/cooler my 2008 Altima V6 uses. I don't know whats inside it as I never opened up my old one.

The 4 cylinder models use a different filter (paper element).