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2008 2.5S Sedan w/CVT
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True, the point I was trying to make is that Nissan was still tweaking stuff in 07-08. Things seemed to calm down after that. At least until the next gen.

What about eh eCVT that's in Prius and Lexus? I've never driven either, but I hear (read) that there is less rubber band effect. It works with a set of planetary gear drives rather than the split pulleys. One of them is engine driven and the other(s) is(are) independently driven (electrically?)
 

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True, the point I was trying to make is that Nissan was still tweaking stuff in 07-08. Things seemed to calm down after that. At least until the next gen.

What about eh eCVT that's in Prius and Lexus? I've never driven either, but I hear (read) that there is less rubber band effect. It works with a set of planetary gear drives rather than the split pulleys. One of them is engine driven and the other(s) is(are) independently driven (electrically?)
I'm not too familiar with the eCVT's on the Prius and other hybrid systems. However if there is a planetary gear set embedded, that kinda makes it a completely different system.

I do wan't to point out something though. The rubber band effect can be completely alleviated using software. It's simple, once the cvt starts to upshit and I depress the throttle, program the cvt to stop up-shifting and just downshift quickly. That is not the case on my car, I have to really depress it to actually get it to downshift in acceleration. But that is how it is designed to work, and the reason why that car was bought (efficiency).

Now if I don't want the rubber band effect, all I have to do is pop it in tip-tronic mode. It does not even exist that mode, because smooth shifts don't occur and actual gear ratios are simulated.

Rubber band effect occurs and extremely prominent in Drive, while in lower rpm ranges (1k-2k rpm acceleration). It feels good to me, because I love feeling the torque and hearing the rumble of that little 2.5. It's awesome. I have never seen a car accelerate so well at 1,100 RPM using a 2.5 Liter engine. Thank the cvt! :wink
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Can't ever stop lol.... love learning and working. Just wish this car was more working then learning LOL
Also wish I got cars people took care of so I wouldn't have 90% of these issues.

So the car has tons of new crap in it now... new starter, new transmission, new deep cell marine battery blah blah blah
(old alternator lol)
So driving down the road and all is working well and then suddenly I no longer see my dash... or computer part of dash (outside temp, gas mileage.. the information center) and then the car dies.
The normal mechanic in me instantly says Alternator took a crap.... got a tow home. Put the car on the charger, and it started gold. Took the alternator off and went to Advanced Auto Parts who tested it three times in a row (hoping it would result different after being warmed up) and it tested "Good" all three times! GRRRRR, I so would rather a bad one so I knew wtf my issue was.
So driving again today and stopped at red light (still have no information center... fuse maybe?) and when I press the accelerator the car barely moves. I turn it off and attempt to turn back on... no bueno, battery DEAD.
Have a friend bring me his battery, swap them out, car starts and drives perfect to get me home....

So now I'm thinking there MUST be a bad wire or break in the wire from the alternator to... whatever runs the car (ECM?) because it's apparent that part is NOT working and it's using the batter until it dies... but if the alternator is testing good... what? Has to be wiring right? Or is there another component I'm missing out on here?
 

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Can't ever stop lol.... love learning and working. Just wish this car was more working then learning LOL
Also wish I got cars people took care of so I wouldn't have 90% of these issues.

So the car has tons of new crap in it now... new starter, new transmission, new deep cell marine battery blah blah blah
(old alternator lol)
So driving down the road and all is working well and then suddenly I no longer see my dash... or computer part of dash (outside temp, gas mileage.. the information center) and then the car dies.
The normal mechanic in me instantly says Alternator took a crap.... got a tow home. Put the car on the charger, and it started gold. Took the alternator off and went to Advanced Auto Parts who tested it three times in a row (hoping it would result different after being warmed up) and it tested "Good" all three times! GRRRRR, I so would rather a bad one so I knew wtf my issue was.
So driving again today and stopped at red light (still have no information center... fuse maybe?) and when I press the accelerator the car barely moves. I turn it off and attempt to turn back on... no bueno, battery DEAD.
Have a friend bring me his battery, swap them out, car starts and drives perfect to get me home....

So now I'm thinking there MUST be a bad wire or break in the wire from the alternator to... whatever runs the car (ECM?) because it's apparent that part is NOT working and it's using the batter until it dies... but if the alternator is testing good... what? Has to be wiring right? Or is there another component I'm missing out on here?
I would suggest you take the alternator somewhere else to be tested, just saying.

Could the marine battery be incompatible with the car's computer meaning it can't get info to charge etc... just a wild guess
 

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I came across this old thread doing some research. Probably doesn't exactly match the original thread but thought I'd post here since there seem to be some experts who can help me out.

My friend has a 2012 Altima sedan 3.5 SR that needs a new transmission in it. Every website I see has transmissions for sale separated by engine size. On the Nissan website I'm seeing the following:
1575087633708.png


This is leading me to believe that the same part number is usable on all of these different vehicles. This surely isn't correct, is it? We're trying to find one for sale online or at a junkyard, but I'm trying to ensure we get one that is compatible with the vehicle.
 

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I agree. Based on my experience swapping out BOSE HU's, I learned that the Bluetooth module and the HU talk via the CAN bus also...and that the 'software protocol' clearly changed between 07-09 and 11-12, in order to use a '12 HU, I need to update my BT module to an '11 (which worked flawlessly with the original BT Mic and wiring BTW).

So, if you are reasonably confident that the electrical interface between the TCM and transmission is the same, you are far more likely to have success having your '08 ECM talk to an '08 TCM.
d0ugmac1, I found this thread for other reasons but noticed this comment I thought I'd ask you about it. Does this only apply to Sedans since they have that additional control box in the trunk?

Example. I bought a Bose/Navi head unit from a 2008 coupe for my 2010 coupe. The radio handles all of that internally right? So I shouldn't have any issues?
 

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Thanks a lot! So it's pretty clear he would need to get one specific to the 3.5 CVT. Other websites separate transmissions based off of Coupe VS Sedan but I'm pretty confident that makes no difference.

The thread attached makes it appear that he could buy a 3.5 CVT from another year ('09-'12) and use his 2012 TCM to make the swap successful.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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d0ugmac1, I found this thread for other reasons but noticed this comment I thought I'd ask you about it. Does this only apply to Sedans since they have that additional control box in the trunk?

Example. I bought a Bose/Navi head unit from a 2008 coupe for my 2010 coupe. The radio handles all of that internally right? So I shouldn't have any issues?
Correct, the Navi units are 'all-in-one' design...so you can ignore the trunk box thing.
 
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