[08AltimaDriver]

True, the point I was trying to make is that Nissan was still tweaking stuff in 07-08. Things seemed to calm down after that. At least until the next gen.

What about eh eCVT that's in Prius and Lexus? I've never driven either, but I hear (read) that there is less rubber band effect. It works with a set of planetary gear drives rather than the split pulleys. One of them is engine driven and the other(s) is(are) independently driven (electrically?)

 

[Helikido]

True, the point I was trying to make is that Nissan was still tweaking stuff in 07-08. Things seemed to calm down after that. At least until the next gen.

What about eh eCVT that's in Prius and Lexus? I've never driven either, but I hear (read) that there is less rubber band effect. It works with a set of planetary gear drives rather than the split pulleys. One of them is engine driven and the other(s) is(are) independently driven (electrically?)

I'm not too familiar with the eCVT's on the Prius and other hybrid systems. However if there is a planetary gear set embedded, that kinda makes it a completely different system.

I do wan't to point out something though. The rubber band effect can be completely alleviated using software. It's simple, once the cvt starts to upshit and I depress the throttle, program the cvt to stop up-shifting and just downshift quickly. That is not the case on my car, I have to really depress it to actually get it to downshift in acceleration. But that is how it is designed to work, and the reason why that car was bought (efficiency).

Now if I don't want the rubber band effect, all I have to do is pop it in tip-tronic mode. It does not even exist that mode, because smooth shifts don't occur and actual gear ratios are simulated.

Rubber band effect occurs and extremely prominent in Drive, while in lower rpm ranges (1k-2k rpm acceleration). It feels good to me, because I love feeling the torque and hearing the rumble of that little 2.5. It's awesome. I have never seen a car accelerate so well at 1,100 RPM using a 2.5 Liter engine. Thank the cvt! :wink

 

[Helikido]

Just wanna say that my grammar sucks up here because all this is on mobile...

 

[3.5-SR]

Wow! You are one persistent person.
Good job getting it to work.
You make it look easy.

 

[kallen007]

Can't ever stop lol.... love learning and working. Just wish this car was more working then learning LOL
Also wish I got cars people took care of so I wouldn't have 90% of these issues.

So the car has tons of new crap in it now... new starter, new transmission, new deep cell marine battery blah blah blah
(old alternator lol)
So driving down the road and all is working well and then suddenly I no longer see my dash... or computer part of dash (outside temp, gas mileage.. the information center) and then the car dies.
The normal mechanic in me instantly says Alternator took a crap.... got a tow home. Put the car on the charger, and it started gold. Took the alternator off and went to Advanced Auto Parts who tested it three times in a row (hoping it would result different after being warmed up) and it tested "Good" all three times! GRRRRR, I so would rather a bad one so I knew wtf my issue was.
So driving again today and stopped at red light (still have no information center... fuse maybe?) and when I press the accelerator the car barely moves. I turn it off and attempt to turn back on... no bueno, battery DEAD.
Have a friend bring me his battery, swap them out, car starts and drives perfect to get me home....

So now I'm thinking there MUST be a bad wire or break in the wire from the alternator to... whatever runs the car (ECM?) because it's apparent that part is NOT working and it's using the batter until it dies... but if the alternator is testing good... what? Has to be wiring right? Or is there another component I'm missing out on here?

 

[3.5-SR]

Can't ever stop lol.... love learning and working. Just wish this car was more working then learning LOL
Also wish I got cars people took care of so I wouldn't have 90% of these issues.

So the car has tons of new crap in it now... new starter, new transmission, new deep cell marine battery blah blah blah
(old alternator lol)
So driving down the road and all is working well and then suddenly I no longer see my dash... or computer part of dash (outside temp, gas mileage.. the information center) and then the car dies.
The normal mechanic in me instantly says Alternator took a crap.... got a tow home. Put the car on the charger, and it started gold. Took the alternator off and went to Advanced Auto Parts who tested it three times in a row (hoping it would result different after being warmed up) and it tested "Good" all three times! GRRRRR, I so would rather a bad one so I knew wtf my issue was.
So driving again today and stopped at red light (still have no information center... fuse maybe?) and when I press the accelerator the car barely moves. I turn it off and attempt to turn back on... no bueno, battery DEAD.
Have a friend bring me his battery, swap them out, car starts and drives perfect to get me home....

So now I'm thinking there MUST be a bad wire or break in the wire from the alternator to... whatever runs the car (ECM?) because it's apparent that part is NOT working and it's using the batter until it dies... but if the alternator is testing good... what? Has to be wiring right? Or is there another component I'm missing out on here?

I would suggest you take the alternator somewhere else to be tested, just saying.

Could the marine battery be incompatible with the car's computer meaning it can't get info to charge etc... just a wild guess

 

[Mtaylor2012]

I came across this old thread doing some research. Probably doesn't exactly match the original thread but thought I'd post here since there seem to be some experts who can help me out.

My friend has a 2012 Altima sedan 3.5 SR that needs a new transmission in it. Every website I see has transmissions for sale separated by engine size. On the Nissan website I'm seeing the following:

This is leading me to believe that the same part number is usable on all of these different vehicles. This surely isn't correct, is it? We're trying to find one for sale online or at a junkyard, but I'm trying to ensure we get one that is compatible with the vehicle.

 

[Throckmorton]

2.5 v 3.5 cvt

i remember reading or watching a review of the 2013 which said cvt in the 3.5 was sturdier or beefed up from the 2.5. does anyone know if this is the case? thanks

www.nissanclub.com

 

[Mtaylor2012]

I agree. Based on my experience swapping out BOSE HU's, I learned that the Bluetooth module and the HU talk via the CAN bus also...and that the 'software protocol' clearly changed between 07-09 and 11-12, in order to use a '12 HU, I need to update my BT module to an '11 (which worked flawlessly with the original BT Mic and wiring BTW).

So, if you are reasonably confident that the electrical interface between the TCM and transmission is the same, you are far more likely to have success having your '08 ECM talk to an '08 TCM.

d0ugmac1, I found this thread for other reasons but noticed this comment I thought I'd ask you about it. Does this only apply to Sedans since they have that additional control box in the trunk?

Example. I bought a Bose/Navi head unit from a 2008 coupe for my 2010 coupe. The radio handles all of that internally right? So I shouldn't have any issues?

 

[Mtaylor2012]

2.5 v 3.5 cvt

i remember reading or watching a review of the 2013 which said cvt in the 3.5 was sturdier or beefed up from the 2.5. does anyone know if this is the case? thanks

www.nissanclub.com

Thanks a lot! So it's pretty clear he would need to get one specific to the 3.5 CVT. Other websites separate transmissions based off of Coupe VS Sedan but I'm pretty confident that makes no difference.

The thread attached makes it appear that he could buy a 3.5 CVT from another year ('09-'12) and use his 2012 TCM to make the swap successful.

 

[d0ugmac1]

d0ugmac1, I found this thread for other reasons but noticed this comment I thought I'd ask you about it. Does this only apply to Sedans since they have that additional control box in the trunk?

Example. I bought a Bose/Navi head unit from a 2008 coupe for my 2010 coupe. The radio handles all of that internally right? So I shouldn't have any issues?

Correct, the Navi units are 'all-in-one' design...so you can ignore the trunk box thing.

 

[sam wise]

Ok....
Good news: Transmission is in and the car drives great!

Bad news:
There is no Park. I have to shift the car to Reverse to get it in Neutral to start it.
Drive is all the was down (just not sure if in full Drive).

Not sure if this is a computer thing or simply the shifter on top of the transmission needing adjusted, etc.
Here's a crappy video, I'll make a better one tomorrow:

Let me know your input guys?

this video is private can you send me a new link. or possibly a walk through on how to do this?

 

[Throckmorton]

this video is private can you send me a new link. or possibly a walk through on how to do this?

@kallen007 last posted on this forum on June 23, 2016. You may wait quite some time for him to respond.

 

[mickyfincher1959]

I agree. Based on my experience swapping out BOSE HU's, I learned that the Bluetooth module and the HU talk via the CAN bus also...and that the 'software protocol' clearly changed between 07-09 and 11-12, in order to use a '12 HU, I need to update my BT module to an '11 (which worked flawlessly with the original BT Mic and wiring BTW). So, if you are reasonably confident that the electrical interface between the TCM and transmission is the same, you are far more likely to have success having your '08 ECM talk to an '08 TCM.

What about a swap 2013 to 2011

 

[Raythorn]

As far as I know, the late 2008 and the 2010 trans should be the same, including sensors and all that.

I have a 2010 Altima with cat transmission which is no good , what other transmission are interchangable(cvt split transmission which in my opinion are garbagewhat other manual or automatic transmission’s can I put in it llace

 

[rogoman]

Ok, hi guys... new to Altima, not new to Nissan... previous Maxima owner and lover! However I'm now sitting on a
2008 Nissan Altima 2.5 Non-Hybrid Auto
that has had some issue's but we've worked through them

Anyways, transmission failed, needing a new one. No problem doing the swap myself, already have mine out =)

The issue.... for those unknown to the transmission world of these bad boy's here's a quick listing:

Year: 2010 Nissan ALTIMA Transmission

Manual Transmission 2.5L (4 cyl)
Manual Transmission 3.5L (6 cyl)
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid Fed
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 3.5L (6 cyl)
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid Calif
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) Hybrid


Year: 2009 Nissan ALTIMA Transmission

Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid Fed thru 6/09
Manual Transmission 2.5L (4 cyl)
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid Calif from 7/09
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) Hybrid
Manual Transmission 3.5L (6 cyl)
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid Calif thru 6/09
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 3.5L (6 cyl)
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid Fed from 7/09


Year: 2008 Nissan ALTIMA Transmission

Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) Hybrid
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 3.5L (6 cyl) thru 6/08
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid from 7/08 Calif
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid from 7/08 Fed
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 3.5L (6 cyl) from 7/08
Automatic Transmission (CVT) 2.5L (4 cyl) non-Hybrid thru 6/08
Manual Transmission 2.5L (4 cyl)
Manual Transmission 3.5L (6 cyl)


Notice for my particular 2008 model there are two.... one thru 6/08 and one from 7/08... of course I have the "thru 2008" model.

I have access to a 2010 non-hybrid CVT transmission... the obvious question "Will this work"?

Second to that, for those nay sayers.... "What is the difference between them?"

I've fitted several pieces into cars in the past, and it's a lot about knowing what the changes are, additional programming to the ecu, etc. Sometimes it's as simple as blocking off a new sensor or a new vent line... but on these transmissions I'm new. All I know is the stepper motor is gone as are a few other parts to the point a rebuild is silly and a waste of money with too many parts throwing codes in it.

So, help me out guys... can I use the 2010 transmission in the 2008 as simple plug and drive (of course eprom programming, which is simple)
or
are there other issues restricting me to find a transmission from a 07 or 08 thru 6/08?

The CVTs may be the same, however the software TCM Calibration Data may be different. Any time a CVT is replaced by another, the TCM that came with the other CVT should also be used. Nissan service bulletin NTB12-103g "CVT / TCM CALIBRATION DATA “WRITE” PROCEDURE" is used when a complete CVT assembly is replaced, a CVT control valve (valve body) is replaced, or a Transmission Control Module (TCM) is replaced.

 

[Sauers_auto]

Alright this thread seems to have some very knowledgeable people involved, I have a late 2009 nissan altima that needs a transmission. I currently work at a junk yard and of course the transmission we have is in a 2012 that was wrecked. I love getting powertrain parts out of wrecked cars because my theory is it had to drive to the accident. Regardless the interchanges I see show everything to my 2009 only. Some ebay posts say late 09 to 2010/2011. Does anyone happen to know if the transmission its self is the same and i can swap parts? and that being said what the difference actually is? At this point Im tempted to but the 2012 trans and swap whatever I need to actually make it work, if its possible.

 

[amc49]

Many CVT cars are towed to the yard with no damage from accident, the CVT failed as I hinted at in another post. And, the sudden stopping of a CVT at an accident can scar the edges off the chainbelt teeth to then slip.

 

[Sauers_auto]

Many CVT cars are towed to the yard with no damage from accident, the CVT failed as I hinted at in another post. And, the sudden stopping of a CVT at an accident can scar the edges off the chainbelt teeth to then slip.

thank you for the info. still leaves what the difference is between the model years unanswered.

 

[amc49]

Man those differences can be all over the transmissions to not be able to count sometimes. You won't find that literally anywhere except a major trans shop with factory shop manuals from Jatco. Maybe 2-3 of those in the continental USA.

Why trans change rule #1 has always been change to the exact same year and build time transmission or risk it not working. The differences may even be month to month rather than year, I chased parts on Fords and the trans I had had 8 parts changes in under a year on it, I like to never found all the pieces to get that one back together and it took months. Everybody kept telling me the part I had in hand was the right part but it wasn't.